@Noobz347 unfortunately not that I know, but a principle looks great!!!
When looking at it, it crossed in my mind about giving some diesel/wd40 spray/flush thru all drain holes of lower intake and valve gallery just minutes before letting old oil cold without cranking out the engine......then pouring oil on top after few hours of drain.
Call me stupid, but that would actually make me less scared than putting engine cleaner in 32 yo virgin crankcase, probbably full of sludge as upper part. Even if it does sound 'bad' or creepy at least.
The fact is also that I cant remove bottom pan this winter.
I will poke in a boroscope in next few days...
Okay, the spare time is beeing used:
I am tearing down hidro lifters. First I though that all are stuck cause I gained no movement from soaking few hours in diesel, but then I saw principle after taking one apart and maybe they should be hard:
When oil gets out they go in with pinky finger.
Is it normal You cant push them in, full of oil as taken out from engine and with quite a force/finger?
Eitherway, the lifters top and side passage is okay on all of them, but a bottom of lifters was from little to hardcore dirty as more they go back to the engine. Black hard crud in lower 'cup' above spring.
Some of that lower cups went out quite hard with a lot of WD40/petrol lubing/cleaning in between.
Maybe could be a cause of occassional ticking.
This night I am giving them a good bath in petrol (fuel), not diesel.
I will soak them and assemble in oil, or a little bit of WD40. AFAIK priming the engine is now a must.
Working with 5 in batch (could not stole more tupperware boxes from SWMBO ), so if somebody wants pictures, let me know.
Is there any home garage mechanic procedure to check/proove that hidro lifters are okay?
Okay guys, all 16 lifters soaking in petrol!
They were full of crud at the bottom piece in front of spring, ball valve bearly visible.
Picture of half washed during teardown... I hope that I wont get tractor diesel sound as an award for doing this nasty job :-(
I have some 10-40 semi synthetic in garage, which I can use after soaking and additionally cleaning all lifter parts with toothbrush.
Which one is safer/better: shall I just oilbath and lube them when assembling or assemble them actually submerged in oil?
I plan to prime engine eitherway before any attempt of starting.
Thanks. As I unfortunately cant remove oil pan in this garage, and I am scared to use seafoam, this is what I plan with oil changes:
Lifters are all clean, nicely lubed, oil was dripping out 2 days, I flushed thru with 1qt of fresh new oil with both plugs open thru all drain holes in valve train and lifter valley. Old wix filter out, full of crap, almost nothing went out :-(
Step1: Bought cheapo supermarket Shell Helix HX7 10w40 semi and cheapo oil filter. Plan is to crank engine, warmup and immediately drain hot oil due to possible crap felt in (I was very careful, but...). This I poured in hours ago. Still need to assemble intakes and covers.
Step2: German affordable brand Pantherol 5w-30 Synth and k&n ps-3001 filter. Run few hundred miles or when it becomes darker - drain. Point is again - to drain a possible released sludge and give the engine clean synth start, as I dont know what was that sticky mess inside from PO (apparently not good)
Step3: Final, Mobil1 ESP 5w-30 Synth plus k&n ps-3001.
I hope that engine will survive and run okay until step3. Let's see how it will go thru it and (I wish) possibly run without further issues...
Sounds good, safe&sound?
Question: Shall I just torque tighten rocker arms (18-25ft lbs) back as the engine was working or shall I do the rocker procedure with turning the engine and checking pushrods?
Everything is stock...
Thank You in advance for suggestions and greetings!
I think that is a sound plan on the oil changes with the exception for the synthetic, save that for the final change with good filter.
You want to do the rockers with the valves on the base circle, if not you could bend the push rod or/and get a bad torque reading.