89 Coup V8 Swap Complet Engine Bogging Down

[USMCstang89]

hello there looking to get some help, been running around in circles trying to figure out what is wrong with my coup,
Here is the back story
I bought an 89 4cyl hired someone to do the v8 swap due to no time and not having the experience to do it myself.
Used a 91 Convertable Lx automatic car to source everything,

The car is completely swapped , ended up looking for a 89 computer harness and headlight harness to make everything connect with the existing 89 dash harness.

The car wouldn't start so I ended up figuring out the computer was done for so I bought another A9P and plugged it in , car started right up , mind you the donor car I used sat for 5 to seven years due to the P/O ex wife destroying it and putting water in the fuel tank.

Now the issue at hand ,sorry for the long winded story. The car turns on , has no issues in park or neutral and even driving it at 15 to 20 mph , but as soon as I put some load on to it , it goes nowhere , it's very sluggish delayed response to flooring it and Boggs up at 30 mph its also running very hot . It has so much power loss it's ridiculous. At first I thought maybe it's the transmission but then again that wouldn't make the engine have no tow to it.

So far I have Changed out spark plug wires, plugs, distributor cap and rotor, thermostat , changed the k&n airfilter, cleaned the mass air sensor , checked the coil , checked fuel pressure , and no change .
I haven't found a thread with my issue so I hope you can help . Please call me and I can explain if you don't understand somethings 510-610-4907 Jaime

 

[USMCstang89]

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.

Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.

Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and driveablity problems

Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Your 86-88 5.0 won't have a working Check Engine Light, so you'll need a test light.
See AutoZone Part Number: 25886 , $10

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see www.midwayautosupply.com/Equus-Digital-Ford-Code-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader 3145.
It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $22-$36.

 

[madspeed]

agreed, first run al your codes and see what the computer is telling you. Post up your results and we'll get you sorted out

 

[madspeed]

assume you have the water out of thetank and al the lines?

 

[90sickfox]

Did you put the correct O2 sensor harness in it ? Sounds like its running lean with the temp issue. I assume the fuel issue was fixed too. Jrichker has the best info I've ever seen...do the tests. I know its long but if done correctly it WILL diag your issue so you can fix it. Sounds like its running lean. Good luck with it.