unless I missed it, I think you’re at the stage of removing them and having someone inspect/test/clean them. Like others have said, it could be a bad ground, but each of them ground independently at the ECU. You need someone else to eliminate them as the problem. Just my 2 cents.
Fresh rebuild? As in bottom end or long block rebuild? Could be timing chain, or valve train. Bring cyl #1 to TDC on the compression stroke, and pump some air into the cylinder, and find out where it is leaking from. You could also just watch the valve action to the timing marks to verify against the cam profile.
Unless you have a few hundred miles on a 'new' build, things are not seated, just my opinion but I'd squirt a little oil in the cylinders and put some miles on it then compression test it
You’re kinda between a rock and a hard space. You’re counting on a set of rebuilt injectors as good, and trying to diagnose what else could be the problem. While I’m no fan of parts swapping, you might bite the bullet and put a new set of injectors on it. Even at that compression level, the car should start and run. As @General karthief said, you’ve got to get some hours on the engine to verify the compression. Check the valve timing as was suggested before as well. Good luck.
Thanks this is not the first time starting the engine. It ran ok before was able to drive it (not a lot )and back it out of the garage. Then this. I did switch one injector I thought was the problem then checked that cylinder and still wet plug.
Squirt oil in the cylinders, your washing the cylinder walls with all that gas.
Go back over your fuel pressure, swap in some fresh plugs, verify spark.
I went back and looked at the pictures and the MAF (sensor and body) is made by Walker. Just me but I would find a stock Ford MAF ( @General karthief ) to eliminate there being a transfer function issue or it just being an aftermarket POS.
Are the injectors actually Ford pieces? eBay and Amazon posted and still post “genuine Bosh” or “genuine Ford” injectors and an high percentage of them are not and are garbage.
The Painless harnesses have been know to have issues but for the most part they are good. You may end up having to ring it out and make sure it’s good to go.
Where are the O2 sensors located in the exhaust? The MAP sensor should not have a vacuum line attached to it so if it does remove that. Did not see a pic of this but wanted to throw that out there.
You should be able to put the accelerator pedal to the floor when cranking and it will put the ECU in the “clear flood” mode.
You have a 50 oz balancer and 50 oz flywheel on it as well, correct? Other quick think to check is to make sure you have the correct connectors on the injectors. Just want to make sure the correct color of wire corresponds to the correct injector.
Not saying you did anything wrong but there have been issues with the painless harnesses in the past with misprinted wires and wires not seated into the connectors all the way.
Thing is it was running fine before then it was not. Only thing I can think now is a ground issue or the timing is off. But it does not hold the fuel pressure long it primes up the immediately starts going down. New fuel regulator.