Progress Thread '93 Kenne Bell Notch

James V · Jun 15, 2019

Power steering pump completed. Man that pressure hose into the steering rack was a pain but I got it done. I also did my spark plugs, wires, and the cap and rotor too. I just tried to start it and it wouldnt turn over. I saw a trouble shooting thread which I'm going to try and follow tonight.

General karthief · Jun 15, 2019

You forget about that ground cable?
'don't be like Mike' (make sure you have gas in it)

FastDriver · Jun 15, 2019

James V said:
Power steering pump completed. Man that pressure hose into the steering rack was a pain but I got it done. I also did my spark plugs, wires, and the cap and rotor too. I just tried to start it and it wouldnt turn over. I saw a trouble shooting thread which I'm going to try and follow tonight.

Funny you say that. I bought a replacement low pressure hose for mine, because it had come in contact with the header on my turbo kit in the blue car. I tried getting a hand/tool in there and eventually gave up. The hose had just enough left to cut it and reconnect. I hope I don't really have to change one of those any time soon.

Did you have to remove suspension stuff, or what did you do to get to it?

jrichker · Jun 15, 2019

James V said:
Power steering pump completed. Man that pressure hose into the steering rack was a pain but I got it done. I also did my spark plugs, wires, and the cap and rotor too. I just tried to start it and it wouldnt turn over. I saw a trouble shooting thread which I'm going to try and follow tonight.

Drop the steering rack in order to replace the hydraulic lines. It is a lot easier to do it that way than to loosen or tighten the fittings a 1/4 turn at a time. You can leave the tie rods connected and not have to worry about changing the toe-in alignment.

The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by removing the 2 bolts that hold it together. The lower part of the coupling will then come out with the rack, and can easily be removed.

Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Dropping the rack before attempting to remove the hydraulic lines will save you 30-45 minutes of fussing and sweating, and you’re going to have to remove them anyway. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines. I replaced the rack mount bushings with some Energy Suspension urethane ones. When you re-install the rack assembly, put the rear bushings in the rack assembly and lift it into place. Then install the hydraulic lines, front bushings & washers and tighten down the nuts. Doing it this way makes room for the hydraulic lines without having them bind against the frame.

James V · Jun 16, 2019

General karthief said:
You forget about that ground cable?
'don't be like Mike' (make sure you have gas in it)

Haha nope I double checked that, i even bolted it in different spots to make sure it wasnt that.

James V · Jun 16, 2019

FastDriver said:
Funny you say that. I bought a replacement low pressure hose for mine, because it had come in contact with the header on my turbo kit in the blue car. I tried getting a hand/tool in there and eventually gave up. The hose had just enough left to cut it and reconnect. I hope I don't really have to change one of those any time soon.

Did you have to remove suspension stuff, or what did you do to get to it?

I must have been under the car for about 30 mins, trying to get the threads to catch. I ended up removing my fender to get a little extra space. I was debating removing the steering rack like @jrichker said (which will probably be the easier option next time) but all of a sudden it caught on the threads and I tightened it up.

James V · Jun 16, 2019

Shes alive!! I dont know what the issue was but I took the cap off the distributor and wiped the metal on the rotor, then it fired right up.

James V · Jun 16, 2019

Spoke too soon. Was driving home and everytime I hit a bump the gauges would act up and bounce around, then they stayed flat like this. Anyone know what would cause this? (Pic taken while driving)

FastDriver · Jun 16, 2019

Bad ground

James V · Jun 16, 2019

FastDriver said:
Bad ground

Damn. I'll have to check the ground I just did. I wonder if it came loose.

General karthief · Jun 16, 2019

FastDriver said:
Bad ground

And/or ignition switch

James V · Jun 17, 2019

Update. Ran the car today with no issues. I checked the engine block ground and it was still secure. I checked the ignition switch and it was solid, some of the wires I might need to redo though. I even ran the car and wiggled the ignition switch and wires but nothing happened. Hit a few bumps in the road and the gauges were fine. So I'm still not sure what caused it. But I'm thinking maybe since it was raining pretty hard the water was effecting something?

Edit: started happening again with no rain so I checked the grounds again and lo and behold one of the grounds above the headlights was so loose it popped off when I touched it. So basically every time I hit a bump it would pop off.

stanglx2002 · Jun 17, 2019

Both lights being ON to me means either the hazard wiring to the switch in the instrument cluster bezel or the Hazard flasher

James V · Jun 17, 2019

stanglx2002 said:
Both lights being ON to me means either the hazard wiring to the switch in the instrument cluster bezel or the Hazard flasher

What's weird to me is it all happened together, the gauges acting up and the hazard lights. I have a ton of wiring to redo though. Previous owner used a ton of electrical tape and didnt do a good job of covering exposed wire.

James V · Jun 22, 2019

Saw some more wiring that needed some attention so I decided just to address the issues and do a wire tuck. I think I asked what this connector was before and someone told me daytime running lights for Canada cars, if I remember correctly. Can i just cut this connector off and tape it up so it's easier to do the wire tuck?

Rdub6 · Jun 22, 2019

If you are going to tuck everything, why not just tuck it in tact, rather than cutting it? Can’t be much harder to tuck one more connector!

James V · Jun 22, 2019

Rdub6 said:
If you are going to tuck everything, why not just tuck it in tact, rather than cutting it? Can’t be much harder to tuck one more connector!

Yeah I guess I can just tuck it too. That plastic connector at the end it pretty big which is why I was thinking of getting rid of it and since I'm never going to have a use for it.

jrichker · Jun 23, 2019

Check out YouTube - they have video about disassembling and repairing Ford electrical connectors.

See https://www.google.com/search?ei=QO...gws-wiz.......33i299j33i160j33i10.pDlXP9sg-4g for more help.

stanglx2002 · Jun 23, 2019

I vote just tuck it away as you may need it for something in the future and it doesn't hurt anything either.

James V · Jun 30, 2019

I'm having some issues while idling for a few minutes like sitting in line at a drive thru, the temp starts creeping up. I did a little research and some people suggested it might be my water pump that needs to be replaced. While looking up which new one I should get I saw ones that said "heavy duty" and I see this Gates one that says "high performance/racing". Is there a difference?

Progress Thread '93 Kenne Bell Notch

James V

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

FastDriver

I was uncomfortably high & wearing a helmet

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL

James V

James V

James V

James V

FastDriver

I was uncomfortably high & wearing a helmet

James V

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

James V

stanglx2002

CT Material here

James V

James V

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues

James V

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL

stanglx2002

CT Material here

James V

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Progress Thread '93 Kenne Bell Notch

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

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wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

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