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'94-'95 spindles...but what else

  • Thread starter Thread starter undercnstrction
  • Start date Start date Dec 15, 2009
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undercnstrction

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i've read several "how-to" threads on changing over my fox to the '94-'95 v-6/v-8 spindles. that seems to be the general idea that those are the best way to go. my question is, what rotors and calipers are the going to give the best results? should i make sure to get the calipers when i get the spindles or is there a better set to use? in regards to rotors, i've read mixed opinions on whether drilled/slotted rotors are really any better than solid rotors. if the solid rotors are just as good, is it worth the time and effort to take the sn95 rotors and just have them turned (for $10 each) or buy new direct replacements?
 

25thmustang

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#2
  • Dec 15, 2009
  • #2
I have heard the 99+ stuff is better, but that I'm not sure.

I run stock 94/94 stuff on mine with no issues.
 

NIKwoaC

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#3
  • Dec 15, 2009
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Have you seen this thread?

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...ug-5-lug-brake-conversion-upgrade-thread.html

Never buy cross drilled rotors, they crack EASY. Slotted rotors are supposedly more durable, but really the only reason to spend extra money on rotors is to get coated ones- Which are usually drilled and/or slotted. Coated rotors will avoid rusting and look pretty longer than regular OE rotors.
 

fivespeedsteed

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Oct 17, 2003
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#4
  • Dec 15, 2009
  • #4
if you get 94-95 spindles the easiest way to do it is get

94-95 spindles, calipers, hoses, rotors pads, then go on latemodel and find the weatherhead fitting to make the passenger side hose correct, then for the rear get ranger axles/drums. then your gonna need sn 95 balljoints or a .330 spacer to go on top of the balljoint so the nut wont run out of threads.
 
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undercnstrction

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  • Dec 15, 2009
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25thmustang said:
I have heard the 99+ stuff is better, but that I'm not sure.

I run stock 94/94 stuff on mine with no issues.
Click to expand...

i'll see if i can find some current stuff on the '99 idea. the stuff i've read over so far has been several years old. thanx for the heads up.
 
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undercnstrction

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  • Dec 15, 2009
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NikwoaC said:
Have you seen this thread?

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...ug-5-lug-brake-conversion-upgrade-thread.html

Never buy cross drilled rotors, they crack EASY. Slotted rotors are supposedly more durable, but really the only reason to spend extra money on rotors is to get coated ones- Which are usually drilled and/or slotted. Coated rotors will avoid rusting and look pretty longer than regular OE rotors.
Click to expand...

i just started going through that particular thread yesterday and haven't been able to get through it yet.

i knew i had read on here somewhere that slotted/drilled rotors were NOT the best way to go.
 
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undercnstrction

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  • Dec 15, 2009
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fivespeedsteed said:
if you get 94-95 spindles the easiest way to do it is get

94-95 spindles, calipers, hoses, rotors pads, then go on latemodel and find the weatherhead fitting to make the passenger side hose correct, then for the rear get ranger axles/drums. then your gonna need sn 95 balljoints or a .330 spacer to go on top of the balljoint so the nut wont run out of threads.
Click to expand...

that is pretty much what i've read so far. i'll have to dig deeper to see what to do with the rears because i'm going to go with 4 wheel disc. the report that i read today said it's possible to use washers as spacers to make up the
.330". any opinion on that? the car will possibly be used in some road race applications so i don't want to band-aid the install.
 

Chuckman

GTFO you fat, heavy bastard
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#8
  • Dec 15, 2009
  • #8
undercnstrction said:
that is pretty much what i've read so far. i'll have to dig deeper to see what to do with the rears because i'm going to go with 4 wheel disc. the report that i read today said it's possible to use washers as spacers to make up the
.330". any opinion on that? the car will possibly be used in some road race applications so i don't want to band-aid the install.
Click to expand...

i used some hardened washers on mine, it works, but if you can get a machined spacer, do it.

if youre doing disks out back, the 94-04 rear brakes can be used if youre up for modifying the brackets, and north race cars also makes brackets to use the 94-04 stuff without any cutting (both cobra and v6/gt). either way, you'll need to add in an adjustable prop. valve, and fiddle with the lines and e-brake cables.

heres a link to show how to modify the stock 94-04 brackets (should work on cobra too if you go that route) Brake guys, critique this: ranger axles on rear disk swap, w/modified SN brackets - Corral Forums
 

fivespeedsteed

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#9
  • Dec 15, 2009
  • #9
yeah if you wanna do disk most of the time you cant rotate your tires cause you need a 9 inch rim. if you do that you need sn axles and brakes and the mouting stuff. you can actually get a whole sn rear axle. but then if you do disc your gonna need a new mc and stuff.
 

Repostyle

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#10
  • Dec 15, 2009
  • #10
undercnstrction said:
the report that i read today said it's possible to use washers as spacers to make up the .330". any opinion on that? the car will possibly be used in some road race applications so i don't want to band-aid the install.
Click to expand...

I just bought new ball joints for a 94-95, they are direct fit and the shaft is the right length since it's for that spindle. I figured, why do all that suspension work and have old tierod ends to F it all up.
 

NIKwoaC

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#11
  • Dec 16, 2009
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fivespeedsteed said:
yeah if you wanna do disk most of the time you cant rotate your tires cause you need a 9 inch rim. if you do that you need sn axles and brakes and the mouting stuff. you can actually get a whole sn rear axle. but then if you do disc your gonna need a new mc and stuff.
Click to expand...

You can do a SN95 rear axle, but this widens the rear track and will make it more difficult to fit wheels inside the wheel well.
 
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undercnstrction

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  • Dec 16, 2009
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i'm leaning toward running FR500 wheels. should i have any issues by running sn95 gear and those particular wheels?

here's another question. i'm seriously considering a coil-over suspension. will this setup work with that type of suspension?
 

NIKwoaC

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#13
  • Dec 16, 2009
  • #13
Go with Fox-length axles and you should be fine.
 

Shaolin Crane

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#14
  • Dec 16, 2009
  • #14
NikwoaC said:
You can do a SN95 rear axle, but this widens the rear track and will make it more difficult to fit wheels inside the wheel well.
Click to expand...

Ehh its really not that difficult, i can fit Hoosier 275's out back, which are 285, 295 equivalents of other tire brands
 

NIKwoaC

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  • Dec 16, 2009
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Shaolin Crane said:
Ehh its really not that difficult, i can fit Hossier 275's out back, which are 285, 295 equivalents of other tire brands
Click to expand...

Hey, good to see you back!
 

Shaolin Crane

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  • Dec 16, 2009
  • #16
undercnstrction said:
i'm leaning toward running FR500 wheels. should i have any issues by running sn95 gear and those particular wheels?

here's another question. i'm seriously considering a coil-over suspension. will this setup work with that type of suspension?
Click to expand...

coil overs are gonna cut down your wheel options, pretty much limiting you to any 6.5" backspaced rim with a 36mm offset, spring do extend into the rear wheel well, thats if you go with a SN95 axle, but IMO its the easiest way to do the swap
 

Shaolin Crane

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  • Dec 16, 2009
  • #17
NikwoaC said:
Hey, good to see you back!
Click to expand...

Thanks man,
 

SVT32VDOHC

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#18
  • Dec 16, 2009
  • #18
Go with 94-95 spindles on stock ride height fox bodies. For lowered Fox bodies go with 96-04 spindles. You won't get any bump steer that way. They push the wheels out 8mm more than 94-95, but with a 17X8 wheel it will not stick out...no worries. I ran that on Hack Job.
 

Shaolin Crane

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  • Dec 16, 2009
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SVT32VDOHC said:
Go with 94-95 spindles on stock ride height fox bodies. For lowered Fox bodies go with 96-04 spindles. You won't get any bump steer that way. They push the wheels out 8mm more than 94-95, but with a 17X8 wheel it will not stick out...no worries. I ran that on Hack Job.
Click to expand...


What he said, you can get away with using 94-95 spindles on a lowered car but you will need a **** load of spacers, i recomend running a bumpsteer kit with any 5 lug conversion as it may be "close enough" but for the price of a kit its ot worth it to just *think* its OK but thats me
 

SVT32VDOHC

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#20
  • Dec 16, 2009
  • #20
Here are 17X8 +3mm Bullit wheels (well, all 17X8's are +30mm) up front with 96-98 spindles. Everything else is stock fox.







The 8mm track width increase was not even noticable. I had this car at the same time I had my 91 notch with 94-95 stuff. The 96-01 spindles seemed to make the yellow coupe handle better. That car rode so nice.
 
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