10-4If the black shows where work was done buffing it will make it worse, wait a day or so and go back after it, you will be glad you did.
Thank you a ton for this info. This was a great learning experience and a utter failure but they go hand and hand. I went through the steps and colorsanded and buffed the spoiler but the orange peel was just persistent. I didn’t grab a pic but it looks quite awful but I needed it back on the car because Florida likes throwing a tropical storm everyday. I will post pics of it tomorrow. I didn’t start over with the bubbles as I wanted to make the mistake to learn from it if that makes sense. It helps me to visualize how the mistake leads to outcome. The product was cheap ish so I won’t mind doing it again. The fuel door came out okay. This is what confuses me. Shot with the same materials at the same time in the same way. Yet the spoiler came out super orange peeled And textured to the point of no return. Once it cools down I am going to sand it down bare and start over with my new knowledge. I also want cooler weather because the clear coat activator I believe was part of my problem as it was 105 degrees during spraying with a normal(medium activator). This job was embarrassing but a good learning experience . Will just have to live with my ugly spoiler for a little while.Paint always shrinks up (dying back). Part of the paint you spray is just solvents that make it spray able. That doesn’t stay with the paint, it will slowly leave the paint.
Most of that happens at the time of spraying. The solvents (VOCs) are primarily to make the product spray able, meaning that the droplets of paint can become very small and provide a smoother finish. Their secondary use is to help the paint flow out on the sprayed surface, also provide a smoother finish.
That’s it. Then the remaining solvents will slowly leach out of the paint over the next one to two months. That’s why you don’t want to wax a fresh paint job, you’re sealing up the surface and not allowing the solvents to escape. This will greatly shorten the lifespan of your paint job.
Anyhow, that means you may have an ultra slick paint job when you’re finished painting. Then two days later you can see the places you repaired. The solvents had the paint “swelled up” over the top of the repair. When the solvents say adios, you’re left with just the basically plastic film that sucks tight to the panel. Including any repairs done to it.
This isn’t really a big deal though. You can color sand and buff the area smooth relatively easy.
Even after painting for forty years, this still happens to me. Trust me, light color sanding with 1500-2000grit sandpaper and a buffing will make this all go away.
Sorry I missed all the stuff about bubbles. Kevin is an excellent tech and he’s right, strip it down. Even if you can make them supposedly “go away” for a short period of time, they’ll come back and bite you in the butt.
The bubbles are simply showing you that there is zero adhesion between one layer to the next. Periodically I’ll have bubbles like that after i have primered a bodymans work. It’s mainly noticeable after a bake cycle in the booth. Usually at this stage I’m gong to my foreman and explaining to him how the gd body man doesn‘t know wtf he’s doing and needs to pull his butt out of his backside.
That’s what I’m thinking. It was driving me crazy last night thinking about the subpar job and I want to tackle it again next week. Going to get it stripped down with 60 grit and make sure the bodywork is smoothed in, shoot it with primer and sand as needed. Then I would like to shoot bc/cc at the crack of dawn so temps will be cooler. Before the Florida sun comes out to play I should be in the normal activator temp range and hopefully yield better results105* using a medium activator? That is the majority of your problem with the orange peel.
Strip the spoiler with 60 grit?That’s what I’m thinking. It was driving me crazy last night thinking about the subpar job and I want to tackle it again next week. Going to get it stripped down with 60 grit and make sure the bodywork is smoothed in, shoot it with primer and sand as needed. Then I would like to shoot bc/cc at the crack of dawn so temps will be cooler. Before the Florida sun comes out to play I should be in the normal activator temp range and hopefully yield better results
Yes, to knock down the unevenness from the body fillerStrip the spoiler with 60 grit?
Well yes and no, when experiencing bubbles like that it is a chemical reaction under the paint/primer, sometimes due to oils from a finger print and sometimes solvents that are not compatible (reactions) with one another.That's not orange peel is it? I thought those little holes are solvent pop (or whatever it's called).
Pedal feels normal, I know check valves are one way but how would I check to see if it's bad?If the peddle feels somewhat normal then the check valve is likely bad at least that has been my experience.
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