Late 2018 date code. Only bad thing is they’re directional so no rotations but should grip nicely.Good deal on the wheels/tires.
Just an observation.. never seen Sumitomos with that tread pattern, I had Goodyear F1 with a similar pattern and they were old.
Check the date code on those tires just in case.
I know where you’re coming from and I agree with you to an extent. My cobra wheels needed new tires and these popped up and for the price I couldn’t pass. I plan to switch between the two often as you rarely see a cobra on stock wheels. I just wanted a little change for now. Stock wheels are stored next to the hardtop and will still be utilized often.I don’t mean to take away from your excitement, but in my opinion the car looks better and more “special” with the factory wheels. With those wheels, it looks like any other SN on the road.
That being said, if you’re able to enjoy the car more with the new wheels and tires, rock on!
It’s actually edited in! Have some other versions with sunsets etc, really spices up photosThat storm picture is poster worthy! Hopefully you got a couple of horizontal shots to use for your computer's wallpaper. Car looks great, nice work!
I agree, if you ever need to take them off you almost always leave a little damage on the wheel. I feel like they could have made it a one piece wheelThe gripe I have with the factory Cobra wheels is the plastic center cap. The more you have to pry them in and out, the more likely you are to narf the wheel or the cap itself. I lived when them on my car for about a year before I switched to the '98s which have the exposed lug nuts - much simpler, especially if you swap to track tires often.
I can get about 4 pumps before it goes full hard. Each time I press the pedal it makes an air “whoosh” sound.How does the brake pedal feel after you shut off the engine and hear the hissing noise? Can you get one to three assisted pushes on the pedal before it firms up? If the pedal gets firm right after you shut off the engine and hear the noise, then I think it's just the booster not holding vacuum - bad check valve.
Thank you. I took advantage of the 25 percent off at advance and just picked up the valve and grommet while I was there for my serpentine belt. I’ll test and change if necessaryPull the vac line off the booster and cap it at the vac tree. This eliminates the booster from the vacuum system. Start car. Shut car off. See if noise is still there. If gone, replace the check valve and grommet and repeat.
leaking booster will hiss when you step on pedal while engine running
Forgot to mention. It was an aftermarket fender with horrible paintwork. There was rain in it and a big golf ball size “touch up” I will snag a pic tomorrow. Found an oem fender in mint condition for $40 so that way I can get a Ford fender and save on painting the old oneWhy did you pull the fender?
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