If it was $225 I would most definitely send it to a shop. From what I see, the only specialty tools I will need would be the mag-base indicator and the rotational torque wrench. Rest of the specialty tools are available via rental at local parts store. On one hand it would be nice to drop it off at a shop and pick it up the next day ready to go, but budget is tight and a little extra experience is always nice.I'd look into the cost of the tools, and also take your time into account... You might never use those tools again, and if you get it wrong even a little it will ruin the gears. That's one of the few jobs I elected to pay someone to do, but I think he only charged me like $225 or so.
Check out the Eric the Car Guy series on YouTube for rebuilding an 8.8. Excellent videos that helped me a great deal when I tackled this job on my own, without ever doing it before. It’s do-able….. just take your time.If it was $225 I would most definitely send it to a shop. From what I see, the only specialty tools I will need would be the mag-base indicator and the rotational torque wrench. Rest of the specialty tools are available via rental at local parts store. On one hand it would be nice to drop it off at a shop and pick it up the next day ready to go, but budget is tight and a little extra experience is always nice.
Have one at my disposal on UCF campus at our SAE garage. Thank you for the reference, will take a look at those videos!Check out the Eric the Car Guy series on YouTube for rebuilding an 8.8. Excellent videos that helped me a great deal when I tackled this job on my own, without ever doing it before. It’s do-able….. just take your time.
You will need a shop press though, unless you already have access to one somewhere.
My thoughts behind 3.75 vs 3.55 came down to the fact that I do almost no highway driving and even then the difference comes down to about 200 rpm@ 70mph. The centri blower will make power with rpm so the quicker I get into that powerband, the quicker I will make boost and get moving. My setup will be similar to this fox and I love how wild it is even down-low.Check out what others are running for gears with similar stuff you plan to add, sometimes more hp does not need more gear.
Motor was stone cold. At first the windows were down when it lsot power but a few hours later I was able to get ignition power to roll them up. I do hear one click when I go to crank car and then all power to car is lost. That’s what moves me away from starter.Oh man! Sorry to hear that. Those are never fun.
Was it hot when this happened? Did you hear any clicking like the starter solenoid engaging? I wonder if the starter motor has tapped-out.
Luckily I was at work sk had a few tools to test the basic stuff. Battery checked out and jump start did nothing. Leaning towards bad connection so it wouldn’t matter if voltage was good if it’s not getting to where it needed to be. Always keep this in the car as a safety, solid junk starter for only $70 on Amazon. Has saved myself and others a few times on the road.Sounds like a bad battery or connection, you know what to do.
first see if it will jump start, or charge the battery for a while, I know you gots a dvm, so get to work
Good point, I would hope it is not that as that battery is only 5 months old. A load test will be in order. It should still be able to supply enough power for the dome lights and chime when the door is open. Car was completely in the dark, not a lick of powerYou know the battery can read good but if a load is applied it can drop like a rock.
The click when cranking is what I heard on my old 95 GT when it wouldn't start. However, in my case it wouldn't start when warm but would when the engine cooled off enough. Tuned out to be simple corrosion under the distributor cap, and a new cap & rotor fixed it.Motor was stone cold. At first the windows were down when it lsot power but a few hours later I was able to get ignition power to roll them up. I do hear one click when I go to crank car and then all power to car is lost. That’s what moves me away from starter.
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