Electrical Alternator (91 Mustang GT & 89 Lincoln Mark VII)

Jhp84 · Jun 9, 2019

General karthief said:
We encourage videos.
Well, unless someone gets killed or maimed.
well, killed anyway.

Cool. We will try to get it up later tonight. Maybe with an update as well on the progress.

Jhp84 · Jun 9, 2019

Was able to remove the egr spacer using the tap,tap,tap method. Tried to remove the bolt and broke one in half. Looking to replace all four. Checked the local auto stores. No one carries them. Can we use straight threaded studs from the hardware? If so, what size and thread? Pretty sure the throttle body and spacer are stock; the MAF sensor reads 55, so we assume the throttle body/spacer is 55mm. Sound correct? These are supposed to calibrated to each other, right? Hoping to get it in today. Checked on line and see that summit has a kit with studs, bolts, and gaskets. Seems expensive since we already have these; just not the bolts.

Thx, jhp & son

Jhp84 · Jun 9, 2019

General karthief · Jun 10, 2019

Maf and injectors are calibrated together. Maf does not care how big your tb is. I would get the correct studs for the tb/spacer but that's me, slather the threads with anti seize, you don't need to tighten the nuts like a head bolt, just a little past snug.

Mustang5L5 · Jun 10, 2019

Jhp84 said:
Yes, but having difficulty removing the plate. Two of the torx bolts are frozen. We broken (twisted) three torx screwdrivers and bits trying to remove them. Thought about heating them and about cutting straight lines in them to see it makes it easier to remove them.

Btw, one it comes off, do we use brake cleaner or carburetor cleaner to remove the build up? Or something else?

Thx, jhp & son

How much do you want to use that original intake?

Stock 5.0 intakes can be had fairly easily. Are you on any local FB groups? If so, i'd put out a feeler for a stock manifold. Should be free or near-free depending on the condition.

Drill out the messed up torx heads, remove the plate and set it aside and just install a nice clean stocker, or install an explorer intake.

Those studs can be a PITA to get out. I've usually put a pipe wrench on them and end up snapping one or two. Given how plentiful and cheap stock HPO intakes can be, I wouldn't waste too much time on it.

Jhp84 · Jun 15, 2019

Followed your

Mustang5L5 said:
How much do you want to use that original intake?

Stock 5.0 intakes can be had fairly easily. Are you on any local FB groups? If so, i'd put out a feeler for a stock manifold. Should be free or near-free depending on the condition.

Drill out the messed up torx heads, remove the plate and set it aside and just install a nice clean stocker, or install an explorer intake.

Those studs can be a PITA to get out. I've usually put a pipe wrench on them and end up snapping one or two. Given how plentiful and cheap stock HPO intakes can be, I wouldn't waste too much time on it.

Thanks for the advice. Going to check out a stock intake (for $15.00) with the EGR spacer and throttle body. May grab the heads and valve cover while we are there (He told us he would sell all for $80). Sound reasonable? He said he wanted to keep the cam, though.

On the other hand, got another offer for a GT40 (?) lower/upper intake for $100. And, was asked if we were "going to cam it [the Mustang] out." Quite honestly, we had no idea what that meant. Will search for info here; in the meanwhile, what does it mean? what are the pros/cons?

And, lastly, took a while to figure out how to edit and upload a video to YouTube. But, think we got it. We will take tips on improving the quality and presentation for future videos. It's our first effort. We seem to have plenty of power on the straightaways but the car seemed sluggish climbing the hills. I thought it might be related to not having enough transmission fluid in the car.

View: https://youtu.be/aFumzIRSNhg

Thoughts?

Thx, Jhp and son.

Jhp84 · Jun 15, 2019

Trying to remove the valve covers. Took off the upper intake and removed the screws from the valve covers. Seem to have plenty of clearance, and the "upper" portions (near intake manifold side) of the covers are "free" from the heads, but the "lower" portions are stuck. Not sure if this because of sealant that may been used previously, or if there is a clip on that lower side that we should have been aware of.

Mustang5L5 · Jun 15, 2019

Nope. Once you remove all the bolts, a quick tap with a rubber hammer should free it.

The gt40 intake is likely an explorer intake. Plenty of info on those of you want to install it. It's an upgrade and $100 is typical price

Camming the car means adding an aftermarket camshaft. There's a few good mild cams out there you can choose to give the car a little chop. Stock cam with 1.7s may offer better drivability and better bottom end torque

Jhp84 · Jun 15, 2019

Got them off. Seems there was paint binding them. Imagine from when someone attempted to paint the block.

Jhp84 · Jun 24, 2019

Quick set of questions. We were looking through the Tech questions ("Putting a Stop to Oil Consumption through the PCV Valve") and tried to click on the pictures link (to see vristang setup, before/after) but keep getting message asking for admin log in.

This thread got us interested in putting the "spare passenger" valve cover on the driver's side, but not quite sure how to hook up second PCV or what that would look like.

Also, having hard time tracking down the hoses from the plenum to the PCV tee, from this tee to the PCV, and from the plenum to the vacuum tee on the firewall. These are the numbers listed on the side of the hoses:

E7ZE-6N664-AA
E7ZE-6A884-AA
KX 11/32" VL 082489

Can't seem to find them at the local parts store.

The small vacuum hose from the EGR (?). Can these small vacuum hoses be bought. We have a number broken or missing (we have capped this, but they are all brittle).

Also there is a ninty degree hose from the charcoal canister solenoid to the charcoal canister.

Thx, jhp & son

General karthief · Jun 24, 2019

Link to pictures?

Mustang5L5 · Jun 24, 2019

I've repaired the broken plastic vac lines by shrinking a piece of heat shrink over the cracked ends. Has held up pretty well over the years. You can just replace it all with standard vac hose as well

Jhp84 · Jun 24, 2019

General karthief said:
Link to pictures?

Here's the links that I'm talking about:

"Extra Notes
From what I have seen, the oil accumulation in the intake will be greatest when the car is left to idle for some time (stuck in traffic or idling in the driveway), and then with some rpm the oil is picked up and thrown into the combustion chamber. If you live in a humid part of the country, or see a fair amount of condensation on the ground in the morning, then you will most likely notice some moisture in the separator, resulting in the easily recognized brown milkshake appearance of the oil in the separator. This is fairly normal, as overnight condensation will form on the inside of the engine block. Once the oil gets up to temperature, this moisture boils off, and collects in the separator.

This is a picture I took of my engine at its worst. The car had been at idle for several minutes before I shut it off.
http://forums.stangnet.com/attachmen...8&d=1123979745

This is a picture of my current setup.
http://forums.stangnet.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45083&d=1149575196

Hope this helps some,"

Jhp84 · Jun 24, 2019

These are the hoses we are looking to replace. Thx, jhp & son

Jhp84 · Jul 4, 2019

Connecting the tubing from the charcoal canister to the plenum. Was trying to figure out which way the purge solenoid is to be connected and came across this thread -- "Determining If I Have A Missing Canister Purge Solenoid. [Thread starter NoTreadDyl Start date Nov 10, 2016)" -- which showed great pictures of the connection at the canister.

We aren't sure which side of the solenoid goes to the canister and which to the plenum (see picture). Can you help out?

Jhp84 · Jul 4, 2019

Here's the photo we saw on the other thread.

Mustang5L5 · Jul 4, 2019

I don't think it matters. I believe it's just open/close and not directional

Jhp84 · Jul 4, 2019

Mustang5L5 said:
I don't think it matters. I believe it's just open/close and not directional

Thx.

We are looking to get it smogged this weekend. We are hoping it passes.

Then we can start addressing the windows and interior. On the windows, do we need both switches for either side to go up and down? Only have one now, and will search for the other. Any way to check if the window motors work without the switches?

Cleaned the interior panels already but trying to decide how best to clean the carpet. Other than being stained, the carpet looks in decent shape. Probably should replace the padding though and add some sound proofing. Suggestions?

Again, thanks, we wouldn't be this far without you all giving advice.

Jhp & son.

Mustang5L5 · Jul 5, 2019

Yes, you need both sides plugged in for the windows to work.

Jhp84 · Jul 5, 2019

Mustang5L5 said:
Yes, you need both sides plugged in for the windows to work.

Thx. We are off to the junkyard this weekend then.

Suggestions on cleaning the floor carpet? It's out the car, in the garage.
Jhp & son

Electrical Alternator (91 Mustang GT & 89 Lincoln Mark VII)

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wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

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wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

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That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

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