Chase the cracks to the ends, drill them with a 3/32” drill bit (keeps the crack from going any further), prep the cracks for welding (buff the paint off), weld them up, hit the welds with a wire brush, paint them up.
My bet with the fat mans cracked floor pan. and tourched K member would be those cheapo summit /jegs headers that fit like azz in that area, if it was the frame rail on the other side I would say on old icon or tti turbo kit.. I would check the rest of the floor pan for cracks, if the studs started to pull, the rear of the seat brackets tend to crack the pan also where they bolted up if it didn't have frame ties with a seat brace. Couple .of cars I owned came to me like that
... If its needs or is getting a floor pan patch, best bet is to remove the front seat cross member and brace it from the under side where the stud is pulling threw, its pretty damn flimsy design stock once you get a good look at it.. Plate the undeside and drill it for the stud anchors to sandwich the plating. so they can't pull threw like it does on the factory sheetmetal design, esp if your a bigger guy.. I actually sheared the power track cam arms that raise and lower the seat in one car at the track that I repaired that on, they where fully pulled threw when I got it. It held up fine to my big ass shifting around on a lose seat after I braced them like that. Idk why ford made the power tracks arms out of extruded aluminum but they did, nice for a driver, not a car that 60fts though.
... If its needs or is getting a floor pan patch, best bet is to remove the front seat cross member and brace it from the under side where the stud is pulling threw, its pretty damn flimsy design stock once you get a good look at it.. Plate the undeside and drill it for the stud anchors to sandwich the plating. so they can't pull threw like it does on the factory sheetmetal design, esp if your a bigger guy.. I actually sheared the power track cam arms that raise and lower the seat in one car at the track that I repaired that on, they where fully pulled threw when I got it. It held up fine to my big ass shifting around on a lose seat after I braced them like that. Idk why ford made the power tracks arms out of extruded aluminum but they did, nice for a driver, not a car that 60fts though.
They crack badly with out those T braces if it was beat on, between the studs pulling out, the manual tracks cracking at the rear, just as the bend starts, all that flexing murders the pans, even with them you see a lot of stress cracks if they raced it a lot without a cage or decent sub frames.
Part of the reason they did that bandaid known as the ssp reinforcement, that every car since 83 has on the drivers side rear bolt holes, complaints about them ripping up the pans... They didnt do the passenger side though and you need to transfer that brace if you ever do patch pans, its not on those.. Tin can cars. Seen too many like this over the years and worse on rust free spotless pans , the rear cracks do show up more on the passenger side pan, guess from twisting/ torque and lack of that extra brace spot welded that's the drivers side has.
Not mine, just shows the damage and how thin it is..... Some probably trying to sell that as an orig. Sub 100k car these days lol.
Part of the reason they did that bandaid known as the ssp reinforcement, that every car since 83 has on the drivers side rear bolt holes, complaints about them ripping up the pans... They didnt do the passenger side though and you need to transfer that brace if you ever do patch pans, its not on those.. Tin can cars. Seen too many like this over the years and worse on rust free spotless pans , the rear cracks do show up more on the passenger side pan, guess from twisting/ torque and lack of that extra brace spot welded that's the drivers side has.
Not mine, just shows the damage and how thin it is..... Some probably trying to sell that as an orig. Sub 100k car these days lol.
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