I forgot the step with the stripper. The stripper goes after the degreaser.Zach,
1. Degrease it, 2. carb cleaner it, 3. lacquer thinner until the bounty paper comes off clean, then use the VHT paint of your choice.
Or, take it to the powder coater
I forgot the step with the stripper. The stripper goes after the degreaser.
If you want a Klean Airplane stripper, it’s best to pay first. Then you can leave the joint with the stripper.I always thought they went after the money...
I actually asked him this very question last year and his response was that because the extrude hone process removes so little material that it was basically a waste of money.Have you asked tmoss if extrude honing the upper intake gains anything in combination with his ported lower? That seems like the only option for cast factory intakes without cutting them open. The flow numbers I've been able to find were from an extrude hone ad / video on Youtube, so I'm taking them with a grain of salt (they looked pretty good). However, if it does smooth the runners and increase the diameter a bit, it shouldn't hurt on a built motor.
Will this stuff easily remove paint from a hoodIf you want a Klean Airplane stripper, it’s best to pay first. Then you can leave the joint with the stripper.
And you better wear protection and have lots of ventilation because even Airplane Strippers stink and things can get messy.
It depends on how long you let the stripper sit there.Will this stuff easily remove paint from a hood
Only the mice in California hated it.It depends on how long you let the stripper sit there.
Seriously, I probably still have some with Methylene Chloride in it. That’s the stuff that strips anything, will eat through two pair of HD rubber gloves in short time, will cause sudden drain bramage and death in enclosed spaces, and California hates.
This is still the brand I know (second hand info from trusted sources) that still works with the new formula.
@Davedacarpainter what is your favorite paint stripper that’s easily available?
Your regular stripper does good work.I prefer this stripper. It’s a bit safer than the aircraft stripper which is some nasty stuff. Downside is this works slower.
32-fl oz Regular Stripper Paste https://www.lowes.com/pd/CitriStrip-Stripping-Gel-1-QT/1000567963
But, I pretty much lathered up my intake, misted it with a sprayer and then wrapped it all in a black trash bag and checked on it a day or so later. Rinse and repeat if necessary.
Final result, before a quick sandblast.
I noticed on my intake that the Cobra Emblem is made into the manifold itself. It is not a plate. I will just have to very carefully paint it up nice to look like what you have. Unless, yours is just simply placed over the emblem with some sort of adhesive?
Sounds like an episode idea for Engine Masters!I know. I followed a lot of that banter from the sidelines and have kept out of it. It's spilled over to FB and YouTube as well. I would truely love to see a dyno test between a Bigdog ported Cobra and a tmoss Cobra on the same engine just to compare the dyno curves.
I think one guy offered to do it on Corral a month or so ago, but don't know if that ever became a reality.
That’s some good stuff! I used it to strip the paint off my intake and worked like a charm! Highly recommend!If you want a Klean Airplane stripper, it’s best to pay first. Then you can leave the joint with the stripper.
And you better wear protection and have lots of ventilation because even Airplane Strippers stink and things can get messy.
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