I tried to clearance the banjo bolt, but I'm afraid to go any further. I can still crack it loose, but if I take anymore off, I don't think I'll be able to service the brakes... It's very, very close but still contacting wheel.
Black Jack: Weld Draglites. I guess I'm hosed
- Thread starter FastDriver
- Start date
Post in thread 'Black Jack: Weld Draglites. I guess I'm hosed' https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/884727/post-9385485
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The link does not describe the rotor diameter used. Is it a stock SN95 or something else?
When I was building my car I went with a 11.23" rear rotor and my stock 15" rims would just rub on the caliper so I went with a set of 16" wheels.
When I was building my car I went with a 11.23" rear rotor and my stock 15" rims would just rub on the caliper so I went with a set of 16" wheels.
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With the rear Cobra rotors being 11.65" in diameter and the V6/GT rear rotors being 10.5" you could swap to the V6/GT rear brake setup and they would clear no problem. About the best you can do with the V6/GT rear rotors is to get the drilled and vented ones as there are not vented units that I am aware of.
HotFox
15 Year Member
This is the reason I am running non Cobra brake set up, with 15", plus lighter.
As for rear suspension bushings. I split a set at the track years ago. I switched to TeamZ solid set up. If you are launching hard with higher HP I feel solid is the only logical long term solution.
As for rear suspension bushings. I split a set at the track years ago. I switched to TeamZ solid set up. If you are launching hard with higher HP I feel solid is the only logical long term solution.
HotFox
15 Year Member
Was when 4 lug with factory drums and Lincoln front calipers I was on Draglites. Now it is 5 lug with Billet specialist 15x10 rear and 17"x5? out front.
@Noobz347 The spacer idea may still be workable, but I discovered another issue while looking into it. These older Draglites use long shank-style lug nuts, and with the proper single washer the shanks protrude past the rear mounting surface of the wheel and bottom against the rotor before the wheel clamps. A spacer thick enough to address that and clear the banjo bolt would need to be properly made for the application, and I would also need longer wheel studs.
A 3/16-inch spacer might solve both clearance problems, but it would also move the slick outward by 3/16 inch. I have not purchased the slick yet, so I cannot mount the complete package and determine whether that new position will actually fit under the car. There is not much spare room with a 10-inch wheel under a Fox, and I do not want to order a custom spacer, longer studs, and tires only to discover that the combination rubs somewhere else.
At this point I am probably better off selling these for a little more than I paid and looking for a wheel that clears the banjo bolt, seats squarely without a spacer, has the correct lug hardware, and works with my existing roughly 1.5-inch studs. It may cost more up front, but I do not want to keep chasing custom solutions to make a $275 pair of wheels work. This definitely did not become the budget drag-wheel setup I imagined.
@KRUISR I updated the link to a better post that covers the rotor sizes.
Ps. I stripped the rear interior down and got the car to a chassis guy to weld in Battle Boxes, install new WBO2 bungs a bit farther back while clearing the stifflers D/S safety loop, and see if he can do any kind of welding to seal the leaking $1k-to-replace Ron Davis radiator. It's a minor leak, but obviously it's preventing the cooling system from pressurizing, even if it still does a fine job of keeping everything cool.
A 3/16-inch spacer might solve both clearance problems, but it would also move the slick outward by 3/16 inch. I have not purchased the slick yet, so I cannot mount the complete package and determine whether that new position will actually fit under the car. There is not much spare room with a 10-inch wheel under a Fox, and I do not want to order a custom spacer, longer studs, and tires only to discover that the combination rubs somewhere else.
At this point I am probably better off selling these for a little more than I paid and looking for a wheel that clears the banjo bolt, seats squarely without a spacer, has the correct lug hardware, and works with my existing roughly 1.5-inch studs. It may cost more up front, but I do not want to keep chasing custom solutions to make a $275 pair of wheels work. This definitely did not become the budget drag-wheel setup I imagined.
@KRUISR I updated the link to a better post that covers the rotor sizes.
Ps. I stripped the rear interior down and got the car to a chassis guy to weld in Battle Boxes, install new WBO2 bungs a bit farther back while clearing the stifflers D/S safety loop, and see if he can do any kind of welding to seal the leaking $1k-to-replace Ron Davis radiator. It's a minor leak, but obviously it's preventing the cooling system from pressurizing, even if it still does a fine job of keeping everything cool.
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