Gearbanger 101 said:Stick with your stock engine and your original plan for the Procharger. Ask the tuner to be a little on the conservative side for the time being, then build the motor when you're ready. There’s no need to go with the forged crank unless you plan on making over 600-650rwhp and a lot of RPM and even then some have lived past that. Besides….realistically, if you’re worried about cash enough right now to even put this thing together at such a basic level, you’re no where near ready enough to drop the kind of coin down in order to build a system that’s going to test the might of a stock crank shaft. Having a 600rwhp car goes a lot further than just a set of rods, pistons and bolting on a big blower. You’ll end up $30,000 into this thing before you even hit that mark. Stay realistic with your goals and you’ll enjoy the project that much more. Save the pipe dreams for when you win the lottery. Jim Fitzgerald can attest to how much money 600+hp will cost. Are you sure you’re really ready to go there?
That being said, the P-1SC will make every bit the power that the 1.7KB will and still cost you a fair bit less in the end. It makes me laugh when people suggest that Kenne Bells are "safer" for your engine than any other. They'll scrap a stock bottom end just as quickly and easily as any other supercharger on the market, if pushed too hard. It's the person doing the tuning that determines how well your engine is going to hold up to the boost levels you're running, not the blower itself.
04YELLOWGT said:One thing I was thinking couldnt I use a healthy shot of Nitrous while Im waiting on the blower? So I could still get some use out of having a built engine then.
You could I guess, but I'd just be patient if I were you. Now you’re talking about a whole different kind of power adder. For what it’s going to cost you for the kit, not to mention the numerous bottle fills in the mean time, you could have ended up part of the way to your forged motor build. Unless you're going to go with a dry kit (which is a little costly) you're always running the risk of a nitrous backfire which will more than likely destroy your stock manifold anyway. Never mind the fact that you don’t really need a built motor to run a reasonable shot of nitrous to begin with.04YELLOWGT said:One thing I was thinking couldnt I use a healthy shot of Nitrous while Im waiting on the blower? So I could still get some use out of having a built engine then.
Trust me, do this. You won't be sorry.jimfitzgerald said:You will be miserable driving around with forged internals for two years waiting to buy a blower. What is your end objective? If you just want a hot street car, I would buy a Kenne Bell 1.7 and a few suspension mods and be done with it. You can safely run up to 400 rwhp with your stock engine and a good tune. Anything more than 400 rwhp on the street is pretty much a waste.
If you want more than that, you are going to need a forged shortblock. Rather that mess around with rebuilding your's, I would buy a forged shortblock from Modular Powerhouse and sell you stock shortblock. However, before you spend your money on that, get a KB 2.2 and pulley down to 400 rwhp and enjoy your car while you save for the shortblock. After you get the forged shortblock, turn up the wick to 500 or 600 rwhp.
I'm not sure what you are asking, but that's the engine I would recommend. If you have a blower, they will put dished pistons in it and optimize it for a blower application. If you plan to run n/a or nitrous, they will build it for that with higher compression.04YELLOWGT said:Like the MPH Street/strip engine?
jimfitzgerald said:I'm not sure what you are asking, but that's the engine I would recommend. If you have a blower, they will put dished pistons in it and optimize it for a blower application. If you plan to run n/a or nitrous, they will build it for that with higher compression.
A short block includes the block, crank shaft, rods, pistons, and associated bearings, etc. If you were to buy the MPH street/strip short block, this is what you would get. And it would come assembled and with a one year warranty, I believe. If you were to replace the internals in your engine's shortblock, the block itself would be the only thing that would not be replaced. The block is cheap (like $300, I believe). All of your stock pistons, rods, bearings, etc would probably be of no value to anyone. Personally, I would prefer to buy a shortblock assembled by MPH with a one year warranty than to have a local shop do that. You could also sell your stock shortblock or keep it as a spare. Also, if you want to lose 70 pounds off the front end of your car, you could order your shortblock with an aluminum block for a slightly higher price.04YELLOWGT said:Jim I was wondering too, what would be the difference between buying that MPH engine and just replacing the internals in my engine? Arent they the same blocks?
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