Progress Thread Budget 89 GT

ok so just a ground activated relay off the MS wire labeled FAN.

sorry it just seems backwards as to what im used too
Everything in every car (some are the exception such as honda vtech solenoids or gm fuel pump relays) is taken to ground. All the switching from the ECU is done to ground, this is safer for the ECU in the event of a short circuit and prevents voltage abnormalities as the ECU is not providing power (12v +)to a load.
 
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found a leaking v band on the passenger side header. broke when i took it off so i just ordered a new one.

once i get that on gonna try and verify the timing with MS and calibrate the wide band. this thing will make your eyes bleed if you let it run in the shop to long.
 
found a leaking v band on the passenger side header. broke when i took it off so i just ordered a new one.

once i get that on gonna try and verify the timing with MS and calibrate the wide band. this thing will make your eyes bleed if you let it run in the shop to long.
Do you understand the timing verification process with the MS? you do not pull the spout, in ignition options- top right of the box- "fixed advance' set this to fixed timing instead of use table. then open the trigger wizard and use it to get the timing set, you want to match whats in the black box with the balancer reading.
 
Mine was burning my eye sockets out too on the first start up. A91what helped me out a bunch getting the basic settings down. The good thing is all that stuff is adjustable with MS. Without a cat it will always be a little funky but getting the fuel and timing under control helps a lot.

It's taken me longer than expected to understand all the workings of MS...but I've got a wife and 4 kids....oh...and 2 chihuahuas. They all need my undivided attention at all times. My car is running and driving well and boost is a great feeling.
 
yeah i think i understand the trigger wizard part of it. it will take some getting used to on what you have to have clicked and un clicked i think. and then the wide band i think you just mess around with the voltage till they both match if im not mistaken?

i know the feeling @90sickfox i have a new wife a 6 year old a bull mastiff and a Australian shepard that keep me busy. plus i heat my house and shop with wood in the winter so im constantly cutting wood to stay warm.
 
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Just keep at it, I installed/played around with my PimpXS all season last year and although I am by far an expert with it
I am definitely more comfortable using it. A lot of thanks to a91what, he is always quick to answer questions.
Likewise with wife,kids,dog,house ….fortunately my Mustang is not a daily driver so the only pressure to get it
done is my own.
 
Just keep at it, I installed/played around with my PimpXS all season last year and although I am by far an expert with it
I am definitely more comfortable using it. A lot of thanks to a91what, he is always quick to answer questions.
Likewise with wife,kids,dog,house ….fortunately my Mustang is not a daily driver so the only pressure to get it
done is my own.

same here. i would like to get it up and going and enjoy it the spring or summer! maybe get some paint on it as well but we will see....

for me working on these is most of the fun anyways and having something you can say you built with your own hands.
 
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TURBO GUYS

i have a set of 4:10s in this car right now.

am i better off with 3.08s or 3.27s

i think i could swap a buddy complete rear ends with the 3.08 and not have to do any work.

or i can get a set of stock 3.27s from another buddy but would have to swap the gears.
 
Everyone has there preferred style, the 3.08 allows the car to remain at a normal rpm on the highway. Your cam is really going to determine your gear. Some cams like a taller gear, the wider the lsa the taller gear you can (typically) run.
 
car moved out of the garage tonight under its own power.

still running rich. I have confirmed the timing using the trigger wizard, and tried my best to get the wideband calibrated but It seems like its so rich its up in the 18s. going to do some research on how to bring it down.
 
You are using a base tune that is setup for an NA car, you have to build the table for it to go above 100kpa.
Sounds like your really new to tuning... the higher the AFR number the LEANER the engine is running. Your lean not rich, you want to shoot for 14.7ish at idle.

I do supply base tunes PM me for details.

Now to bring the afr down you will need to open the ve table and in the blocks around where the blue dot is raise the numbers. Higher the number more fuel added.