Did ford ever put a 31 spline spool in anything from the factory that we could get in a u-pull yard?
High schoolers.... Don't want to spend dad's money...
Reminds me of my younger days
Man, build that car as cheap as possible and let'er eat.
I really like to see younger people getting into these cars and I'll help you out as much as I can.
Good friend was going mid 1.4's o the juice and mid 1.5's n/a in the 60' with Jegs control arms, stock rear coils, 4cylinder fronts and ran Lakewood 50/50's (rear) and 90/10's(front), ran stock rear sway bar and an air bag in the right rear coil. Car weighed 2600lbs which helped a bunch. There are better setups. That thing would dangle the fronts nearly to the beams, and show daylight on the 1-2 shift. Too much/fast rise in my opinion but it worked for him. It would have been quicker and more consistent with a "better" setup, but, budget always rules.
Anyways, just posting that^ to show it doesn't take big bucks to make a car get out of the hole.
I just gave away a set of skinny Centerline convo-pros... wish you had this project a bit ago, would have loved to donate to such a project. Search for deals... oh, if you can find space saver aluminum wheels (I think they came on Thunderbirds) they were as light as you are going to find (without going Bogart and such) and will clear your 80's sized calipers. I go down this road because you've not mentioned front runners, and, bias out back and radial up front are reported to get interesting as speed increases.
BBK... I would look for a proper 3-bolt flanged header rather than a ball-and-socket deal.
Flowtech (Essentially a Hooker...) have anything?
Since you can weld, and you are doing this yourself, look for through the floor sub-frame connectors. Typically they are cheaper, and, they are much stronger than the "bolt-em-in" types. If I were doing it over... through the floor all the way.
okay so I now have a somewhat updated build list, hoping revhead347 can help with some of the rear end/suspension setup as you surely seem to have your share of experience on the matter.
Engine-351 (out of an LTD), custom grind cam, 13:1 pistons, VP110 fuel (believe I stated sunoco earlier but that was a typo), Summit racing single plain intake, rebuilt 750 double pumper.
Trans-C4 (out of the same LTD), stock bell housing (really hoping to get by without having to buy all SFI approved stuff), stock flex plate,all stock internals on transmission, transbrake valve body, 4000 stall.
Rear end- mustang 8.8, full spool, richmond 4.30 gears, 31 spline axles (need advice on whether to run the explorer axles or ebay axles...found an off brand set made with 1541H as apposed to the 1550 steel used in strange axles....are the aftermarket axles a necessary evil?!), stock stamped control arms with a thick piece of metal welded in to kind of make them similar to a tubular arm OR budget aftermarket ones (suggestions welcome), stock springs with 1 coil cut or eibach drag springs with passenger airbag.
Car- basically same plan...10 point roll cage added to equation (safety safety safety)...gotta keep the NHRA and my mother happy I suppose..lol
Im hoping to keep all of this under $5k AND run an 11.99 or faster
sorry, that got very long winded.
Usually I am all about chassis and tune, and less about engine, but the GT40p heads aren't going to yield much. Unless you just shoot an ass ton of nitrous in there. The GT40p heads are 13 second execution on an 11 second goal.
Good control arms are relatively cheap now. There is no point modifying the stock control arms, because a complete aftermarket control arm setup is pretty affordable. The soft spot starts in the bushings, not the actual control arm itself. The old bushings usually have to be drilled, then burned, then polished with a wire wheel. It's a huge PITA. A good drag car has an anti-roll bar. They are expensive up front, but it will save you a ton of time trying to figure out why the car isn't launching straight down the line.
Aftermarket forged axles are unfortunately a necessary evil. Factory axles are known to make multiple passes before failing. Unfortunately, when they fail, they tend to do serious damage to the car and your ego. It's better to just get this out of the way up front.
The rest of your plan sounds as good as anything I can come up with.
Kurt
Usually I am all about chassis and tune, and less about engine, but the GT40p heads aren't going to yield much. Unless you just shoot an ass ton of nitrous in there. The GT40p heads are 13 second execution on an 11 second goal.
Good control arms are relatively cheap now. There is no point modifying the stock control arms, because a complete aftermarket control arm setup is pretty affordable. The soft spot starts in the bushings, not the actual control arm itself. The old bushings usually have to be drilled, then burned, then polished with a wire wheel. It's a huge PITA. A good drag car has an anti-roll bar. They are expensive up front, but it will save you a ton of time trying to figure out why the car isn't launching straight down the line.
Aftermarket forged axles are unfortunately a necessary evil. Factory axles are known to make multiple passes before failing. Unfortunately, when they fail, they tend to do serious damage to the car and your ego. It's better to just get this out of the way up front.
The rest of your plan sounds as good as anything I can come up with.
Kurt
Kurt usually offers spot on info, and while I agree that p heads are in the bottom of the barrel, you can easily get them into the 11's. Heck, I had regular 40's in the 12.8x range when I couldn't 60 ft better than 1.8x. This was in a full weight car with a.c., ps, no weight reduction, and drag radials. With my suspension like it is now, I bet it would have gone 12.4x easily, and if it weighed 2800lbs vs the 3400lbs it weighed, easily in the 11's.
This isn't a DD, I say go for it and do more with less!
Joe
Just seen a set of edelbrock performer rpm (I think) heads..190s...on summit for $730. I think for the extra $330 I would have into the motor there's no way in he## I would be messing with a cast head. Unless they there is a severe flaw in edelbrock heads I don't know about
Thanks for the info. So your are saying scrap the P head idea in favor of what? Maybe a set of 11r 195s? Maybe renegade 205s? Or maybe go smaller like a 170? I don't want to have to spin the thing at 9,000 rpm to make power. I just have a bad feeling that's exactly how you break ####
Would those axles made with the 1541h steel and long wheel studs do me just fine for what I need done?
What kind of control arms should I be running and what anti-roll bar?
And is there any place in particular that o could go to find those good heads used? Going with a new set of high dollar heads would eat up a LOT of the budget. If it goes a little over budget I'd probably let it ride but I can't be thousands upon thousands over, know what I mean?
Kurt usually offers spot on info, and while I agree that p heads are in the bottom of the barrel, you can easily get them into the 11's. Heck, I had regular 40's in the 12.8x range when I couldn't 60 ft better than 1.8x. This was in a full weight car with a.c., ps, no weight reduction, and drag radials. With my suspension like it is now, I bet it would have gone 12.4x easily, and if it weighed 2800lbs vs the 3400lbs it weighed, easily in the 11's.
This isn't a DD, I say go for it and do more with less!
Joe
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