I can attest to that! my car ran a 14.2 @98 with p heads and zero traction. really thought i could see a 13.x timeslip..that being said, these P heads aren't a factory unmolested set...they got big valves put into them and are ported, Im not sure if i can get into the 11s with even the best set of P heads. I really do like the 11r trick flows but GOD they are spendy.
Fox Budget Drag Car
- Thread starter PakstinN
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I can attest to that! my car ran a 14.2 @98 with p heads and zero traction. really thought i could see a 13.x timeslip..that being said, these P heads aren't a factory unmolested set...they got big valves put into them and are ported, Im not sure if i can get into the 11s with even the best set of P heads. I really do like the 11r trick flows but GOD they are spendy.
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Wow, Cutting deep! No harm, lol. Sounds like the kid is wanting to challenge himself and learn to do something he doesn't already know how to do. The car above is my fathernlaws, not mine. He literally paid $50 for that car and learned to do everything on it. He didn't know how when he started, as most of us. I agree that most can't achieve those results, but they probably aren't willing to put the amount of time and effort into learning what it takes either. As for how he did it, I pretty much laid out the recipe. Any other details you would like to know, just ask. We are all here to help and encourage one another.
Joe
Nailed it. I have plenty of "under the hood experience" but I want a taste of what it's like to make a purpose built track car 100% from nothing. And make it run 11s while keeping it at $5,000 or below. I'm fully aware it is a highly ambitious goal, but I gotta stick to my guns and say I believe it can be done.
I think you need to layout out a plan and stick $ beside everything.
$400 for a 230+cfm head is a steal. Is it ideal? No. Then again neither are TF 11r190's on a 351... there is a mentality of "to do it right"... then there is reality of budgets. In the "to do it right" world where do you stop? It's been mentioned already something to the effect of don't put 302 parts on a 351... so, in that vane, why would you put 190cc heads on a 351 when that is what all the faster 302's/306's are running? Step on up to the 205's... but guess what? 190 = $1600... 205's = $2000. But wait, why build a 351" when you have the potential to have 408"... going to build a 408 going to need 225's race ported for $3000+... it never ends when the budget is overlooked.
$400 230cfm heads, $400 solid custom cam and $400 solid lifter ($1200 total) is going to make more power than $1600/$2000 heads with a stock lifter and cam. (of course an no2 kit with be cheaper than either and faster than both) Yes, you can cam and lifter with the better heads too... now you are looking at $2400/$2800 vs $1200...Lets not forget those 12:1-13:1 pistons are going to be $500+. Well over half your budget and you still have to buy assembly lube, fluids, gaskets, plugs wires,intake carb, fuel pump, dizzy, coil, headers... opps, there is your budget done... too bad you don't have money for arms, shocks gears, convertor, slicks/skinnies, driveshaft loop, line lock, tach... bet you want a manual valve body and shifter too right? Do you have a helmet... how about a dolly/trailer to get it to and from the track? LOL it all adds up. You start putting $ with the stuff listed above and you'll see $5000 is going to be tight.
With 230cfm, 13:1 compression, 1-3/4" open headers with a good carb intake... if cam'd properly, there is no reason it cannot make 450+fwhp.
Now, a bunch of folks are going to chime in and say, ya, but the future...
If you want to start another thread about a car that someday might run... and budget isn't all that important then feel free to do so.
In this thread you asked about making a track only car for $5000 dollars that'll go 11's.
$400 for a 230+cfm head is a steal. Is it ideal? No. Then again neither are TF 11r190's on a 351... there is a mentality of "to do it right"... then there is reality of budgets. In the "to do it right" world where do you stop? It's been mentioned already something to the effect of don't put 302 parts on a 351... so, in that vane, why would you put 190cc heads on a 351 when that is what all the faster 302's/306's are running? Step on up to the 205's... but guess what? 190 = $1600... 205's = $2000. But wait, why build a 351" when you have the potential to have 408"... going to build a 408 going to need 225's race ported for $3000+... it never ends when the budget is overlooked.
$400 230cfm heads, $400 solid custom cam and $400 solid lifter ($1200 total) is going to make more power than $1600/$2000 heads with a stock lifter and cam. (of course an no2 kit with be cheaper than either and faster than both) Yes, you can cam and lifter with the better heads too... now you are looking at $2400/$2800 vs $1200...Lets not forget those 12:1-13:1 pistons are going to be $500+. Well over half your budget and you still have to buy assembly lube, fluids, gaskets, plugs wires,intake carb, fuel pump, dizzy, coil, headers... opps, there is your budget done... too bad you don't have money for arms, shocks gears, convertor, slicks/skinnies, driveshaft loop, line lock, tach... bet you want a manual valve body and shifter too right? Do you have a helmet... how about a dolly/trailer to get it to and from the track? LOL it all adds up. You start putting $ with the stuff listed above and you'll see $5000 is going to be tight.
With 230cfm, 13:1 compression, 1-3/4" open headers with a good carb intake... if cam'd properly, there is no reason it cannot make 450+fwhp.
Now, a bunch of folks are going to chime in and say, ya, but the future...
If you want to start another thread about a car that someday might run... and budget isn't all that important then feel free to do so.
In this thread you asked about making a track only car for $5000 dollars that'll go 11's.
One thing that is overlooked when building a car to go drag racing is experience, I didn't go back to see but if you have no experience here is a tip, spend the money on structural enhancements like suspension and cage that works for an 11 second car and stick a stock engine with bolt ons in it and start honing your skills staging and launching the car and build the 11 second bullet as you get better at the drag strip. That will give you time to seek out the deals and interact withother racers to sneek a peek at how they do it and most times the faster guys (and girls for that matter) have stuff lay'n around that they don't use anymore and score some deals, a racer is less likely to sell you a pos if he knows he's going to see you every week at the track.
Now if your related to don garlits, well I'll just stop typing now.
Now if your related to don garlits, well I'll just stop typing now.
So what I'm getting is just run the P heads, spend the 5 grand (yes I have a trailer and a diesel pickup to haul it), see what the $5k gets me and get out there and have fun with it. If it runs a mid 12 with am 11 second goal...eh...I'm a season or two maybe step up to an aluminum 205 head? Maybe that plate kit too? But for the time being maybe stick to budget as close as possible and let her eat
Yes sir. Your budget doesen't allow for busted crap, and you will break cht.
There is a thread in the 5.0 tech section, click help/how to, at the bottom of the list is a thread by bob cosby that is a basic how to run 12's, some of the stuff is out dated but you'll get the idea and if you have any questions we're here to help.
There is also a juckyard swap section in there that may help too.
Don't be disappointed with high 13's the first night out, remember you have a goal of 11's and that takes a driver as well as a car.
And keep us posted. With pics.
And pics of random beer.
And chics, pics of chics with your car will add 2 hundredths to your timeslip and make noobz happy.
I hear what you are saying. I've ran into this with the car I already have as far as where to stop..got p heads for around 400 the first go round..well how aboht spend the extra couple hundred for cheap aluminum..well why waste money on sve heads when you can have twisted wedge heads for 400 more..well darn for 400 above that you can have ported 170s...I get it.
On a completely separate not as far as manual valve body goes. My plan was to get a trans brake valvebody as cheap as possible. Somewhere in the 800 range. For drag racing, is a manual valve body what I should be after?
Fair enough.
OP, go on YouTube and check out the Trojan horse mustang series. Not that I would recommend you follow everything he does to a T, but his results are impressive.
Joe
Hi Guys, I'm an old old school car guy, I have 15 mustangs, most are unfinished projects, And are now for sale. I have a (home shop) built, low cost drag mustang, Just mostly now for noise and fire, I like showing at mustang shows and this thing gets lots of comments in my backyard shop. Has two 351 C engines, four 4 bbls and 23" S/S pipes, all hand built and purge welded here at home 7 pieces each pipe, I used a 67 fastback front sub frame, hand built the rest of solid frame, with a body tilt bar out back. The fb body is solid welded, all stock steel but with glass flares, will have lex windows, all brushed .032 alum. interior and air lift cylinders for the body lift. Spent lots of time on this thing, then got sidetracked, probably will never actually finish it, as am building a 69 fb with 408 ci. W now, also, my son is building a 69 R code 428 CJ outside on the lift. Keep the stories and project pics coming. At 81, I can still see and read. I have a 89 Saleen conv. I never drive also two 1978's, one is a KC. one is a 4 cyl. with 4 speed cp. Thanks, Harry
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Hey guys, its been quite awhile since I have posted in here but I think its time to do an update. for starters, we acquired an 81 hatch that already had a 351w and c4 (had some other goodies like headers, Edelbrock intake/carb, mid 6al box, post 8.8 with 3.55s, etc.) anyways, we got the car for $600 and thought we had it MADE. ran a little rough but we figured we could fix that. anyways, quick compression test and we find out we had only 40 psi on cylinder 7/8..pulled off the heads and saw some pitting in the cylinders. at that point we knew we would be rebuilding her. we now have a fresh 351w bored with all 8 cylinders sleeved, she 170cc aluminum heads, bbk long tubes, putting the intake/carb back, etc. the best part? we aren't even at $3500 yet. just figured id update everyone!
- Mar 2, 2015
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It can be done... glad you found a decent starting point. Always better to build the engine ( or get the engine built ) yourself. That way you know what's inside it.
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