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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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car wont make the power or run the number, whats wrong?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Foxfan88
  • Start date Start date Mar 10, 2007
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dtlionsfan

Member
Nov 12, 2005
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Mar 11, 2007
#21
  • Mar 11, 2007
  • #21
Just like any new combo that adds tons of new parts,you have to figure out and tweak it to get it to run.You can buy new parts all day long to make it faster but if that new intake/head combo runs 13.5@101 how much faster could it be with proper tuning and learning what the combo likes.You should be at least 250hp/310tq with what you have,get help and figure it out then throw some H/I on it.
 

Foxfan88

My Grandpa has great wood.
Sep 13, 2004
2,487
4
0
Miami, Ok
Mar 11, 2007
#22
  • Mar 11, 2007
  • #22
still the ported stock isnt capable of as much power. i have always craved more HP everytime i did something to my car. the TFS kits are proven power and i think a solid 300RWHP is a good starting point, if i wanted more power. throw a stroker bottom end in, port the heads, add some nitrous or a blower etc. assuming i have the money.
 

795.0pacecar

lover of pudgy polygamists
Jul 11, 2003
480
0
17
Senoia, GA
Mar 12, 2007
#23
  • Mar 12, 2007
  • #23
I think you should fix the current problem, before you go throwin parts at it and creating more problems.
 

Foxfan88

My Grandpa has great wood.
Sep 13, 2004
2,487
4
0
Miami, Ok
Mar 12, 2007
#24
  • Mar 12, 2007
  • #24
i know whats holding me back, we concluded it was the intake manifold restricting the rest of the engine. on the dyno sheets it starts gaining torque good and peaks too early at around 3500 and then proceeds to fall down. just isnt getting the air.

now its a question if i want to stick with the current stuff and go ahead and upgrade.
 

tmoss

Gettin Wired
Founding Member
Jun 28, 2001
7,153
32
128
Saint Louis, MO
Mar 12, 2007
#25
  • Mar 12, 2007
  • #25
I can tell you the intake (not just the lower) flows 200cfm which is about 10cfm short of the peak flow of the heads - the intake is not restricting this engine to any significant degree. When you advance a cam, you pull the rpm and power band down and beef up the torque curve, but then it turns down sooner too - exactly what you are seeing. If you'd take the advice given and degree the cam in with no advance or even retard it 2-4 degrees the power band will respond. If you feel it's just the intake, replace it without changing the cam and see what you get..................
 

795.0pacecar

lover of pudgy polygamists
Jul 11, 2003
480
0
17
Senoia, GA
Mar 12, 2007
#26
  • Mar 12, 2007
  • #26
I agree with Tmoss. Put your cam in straight up. My stock cam and 1.7rrs makes power to 5600rpms with the same heads and a high rpm oriented intake. You should be right around where Im at considering you have a better cam.
 

Foxfan88

My Grandpa has great wood.
Sep 13, 2004
2,487
4
0
Miami, Ok
Mar 12, 2007
#27
  • Mar 12, 2007
  • #27
i didntt really think his intake is choking me at first either. but i didnt think the camshaft advance would have such a great affect. and know people have great luck with thumper and tmoss stuff. so i got confused.

i still cant figure out why the car didnt trap more than it did before with the stock engine.

with a bone stock 140k longblock, CAI, pullies, 1.7 RRs, exhaust and gears with a DR i managed 14.1@99 with a 2.0 60' and 13.9@ 97 with a 1.9 60' were my best with the stock engine.

on me new combo. i added
thumper e7s
tmoss lower
port matched my own upper and opened to 70mm TB
B-cam which i advanced 4 degress
70 MM TB
73MM MAF
190lph with aj regulator ( doesnt affect power but i can tinker with stuff)

all on top of a fresh rebuilt shortblock and a smoother shifting trans i just got rebuilt

granted i was just on street tires this past weekend and managed the 14.2, but it didnt want to mph at all, with a good tire i bet i would have seen 13.7 or so. but i always thought the mph will decrease a tad bit when you hook better.

all in all i would have guessed i would gain at least some mph in the 1/4 mile even if i was on street tires. i didnt gain anything.

just a reminder my car made 225HP and 270 TQ on a mustang dyno.like i said before, nothing is mechanically wrong. AFR was dead on on the dyno, consistant 13:1 pretty much, checked compression and got b/w 140-145 on all 8 cyls.

and another thing, i have a friend with a 97 GT mustang, SOHC 4.6 with a K&N filter and hpipe and flows on the same dyno made 207 HP and 270 TQ

i figured everything i have done to my engine and having it being new, that it would make more than just 17-20 Hp more than a sohc 4.6 with over 100k miles and he managed to make the same TQ number

heres the dyno sheet of my best run. maybe u guys can see something....


i really dont feel like tearing it down and upgrading, the engine runs good. i would be very willing to go back in and mess with the came timing for sure. but i dont really have the funds to really upgrade stuff. i dont know if mine is running bad or what. maybe its fine and i am crazy, but it still gained no mph, maybe i just need a tire to hook good. because i was pretty much launching off idle. anything more would spin the tires hard.
 

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Founding Member
Jul 1, 2001
161
0
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ill
Mar 12, 2007
#28
  • Mar 12, 2007
  • #28
That intake and head set up should pull better. If theses are the parts your running, and you are confident with your driving, its in the tuning. Follow what TMOSS said- back the cam down. The engine is nothing but a air pump. If your exhaust cant move the air, the heads and intake cant do their part either. If you want 12s, it all has to work together. Why blow more money when you just need to tune??
T, say hey to Gerald from Red.
 

BlooDReigN

Member
Feb 22, 2004
283
1
16
Calgary, Alberta
Mar 12, 2007
#29
  • Mar 12, 2007
  • #29
My money is on the cam timing as well. You definately don't need to ADVANCE a ford cam. That cam advance is definately hurting your top end...how much, I'm not sure, but I bet it will probably be noticably different when you degree the cam properly.
 
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