I will never use a cable again that has the white plastic ends. I've replaced probably 50 of them. On customers cars they would jam up in the sheath or pull the sheath through that white plastic. The last cable I bought for myself was a Ford one from a local dealer. One of the autozone cables was OK too. It had the black plastic and felt like OEM. I have no idea what brand they were. The cheap white plastic ones were sold by Advance, AZ, and a few other places. I'd ride around from store to store until I found a good one. Napa used to carry a decent one also.
Would the only drawback of going to a Hydraulic set up be cost?
I can almost guarentee that my McLeod "Original Street Twin" Disk, in 2 cars, is about as nice as it gets, even though it uses a cable.The hydraulic throw out bearings do fail. Transmission has to be pulled to replace them. The ones that mount on the bellhousing and push the fork are better but people have had issues with the travel not being far enough causing the clutch to not fully disengage. These issues were all over the forums when the kits first came out and may be solved now. Hydraulic clutches are so much nicer on the knee.
Good point. The 3 ways to get more power/torque capacity in a clutch:I've gone through several clutches on the same cable but they were mostly variations of the CenterForce clutch. They're not as violent on cables and quadrants as kits with high plate pressures, although, my first aftermarket clutch completely [ate] the stock quadrant and prawl.
Ran E4ZZ-7K553-A last night. Showed one dealer having one left. Sent an email requesting pricing and shipping costs. Got a response back within a couple of hours. Here is their response:.... did anyone try running the part numbers on rear counter yet?