Comp Cams 102600

Supposidly it is still a very tedious job with the tool especially on the last springs toward the firewall. But the way I look at it, I am going to do it once and 8-10hrs of work for a few years of enjoyment is fine with me.
 
nickthegenius said:
But the way I look at it, I am going to do it once and 8-10hrs of work for a few years of enjoyment is fine with me.

8-10 hours! :rlaugh: That's what I thought going into the swap too. It's definitely worth it, but don't be surprised if it takes just a bit longer.
 
NasaGT said:
:lol: As long as I don't have to take the heads off, thats fine with me!

Word of advice before you start the swap. Before you begin using that spring compressor tool, take a file or a small grinder to the inside "U" portion that will sit on top of the retainer. Reason being is that I will sometimes catch on the retaining locks and prevent you from pushing the spring down, and it will get in the way of installing the locks once you have the new spring installed. A little extra clearance there will help a lot.
 
NasaGT said:
Sounds like a good tip thanks! I probably won't do this until this summer, so I better print this so I don't forget..... Thanks again!

What part of VA are you in? If you're close you can just use my spring compressor tool that's already been modified.
 
Dallasgt01 said:
What is the differance between the Comp Cams Springs and the Mod Max springs???

With the Mod Max springs they have a Kit and they have just the springs...Valve Kit 270.00 Just the Springs 80.00

If I were you unless something has changed I'd pass on modmax valve springs. I've seen what's left of a 4.6 that used them at Houston Performance-
:(
 
If you are using comp cams USE the recommended springs to save yourself a headache and engine damage.

They wouldnt recommend valve springs if they didnt need them.Ive have the first set of modular cams they made along with their springs.12k miles with no issues.

Going a different way than what they recommend can only lead to trouble.