Converting to manual steering ?'s HELP!!!

[mustangman70]

My steering allways leaks, the cylinder rod (ya know the one that is connected to that bracket to the frame SNAPPED off the other few months ago and is hanging down, I took out my A/C becasue i never use it, and The stang is becomeing a weekend warrior pretty soon anyways, and im just plain sick of its problems, what is involved in converting to manual? any one have a step by step process>?

PLUS REAL motors only have one belt lol BTW i allready know how to change the front of the motor (pully and such)

 

[Ronstang]

Get a manual centerlink and just delete all the power stuff and you are good to go. You can use your old tie rod ends. I am only real familiar with the 65-66 cars and on those even though the driver's side tie rods are different for power cars they will still work....or you can replace them with manual ones if you like. This may also be true on 67-70 cars but I am not completely sure.

 

[6cougar8]

You may have to get a different idler and pitman arm. Not sure but I believe the pitman arm for p/s has a hole for the centerlink, where the one for manual has the stud to go into the centerlink. Think the same is true for the idler arm.

 

[LMan]

You may have to get a different idler and pitman arm. Not sure but I believe the pitman arm for p/s has a hole for the centerlink, where the one for manual has the stud to go into the centerlink. Think the same is true for the idler arm.

Manual centerlink, pitman arm.

 

[65fastback2+2]

question, why not rip the cylinder ram and pump and belts and hoses off???? why does it matter if the center link has the control valve on it or not?

 

[blown65]

lmao, my car has been a manual car for 13 yrs now. Well it was a power assist but I yanked the crap off and never converted it. I dont think I ever will. Maybe it would turn a little easier, but I'm not a girlie man so I just put some arm into it.

 

[burnout289]

i got a kit from i think Canadian Mustang a few years ago. rip all the crap out and the kit caps off the valve. i would like to get rid of the parts, too.

 

[mustangman70]

damn double post, read below

 

[mustangman70]

Ill post the link to the part i want to buy, it gets rid fo the "power cylender".....its hard to explain but just go to the link. and that the only piece i will need. http://store.cal-mustang.com/cm_able/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Product_ID=3133&CATID=19&CM_SA=0

Its not that simple 65fastback2+2....See my P/S pump shares the water pumps belt, SO i will have to use my 66 alternator brackets (block is out of a 66) throw the C/S pully i pulled off (which is one groove) and use the old alternator belt. Liek i stated above i know how to do the rest lol, ill let ya guys know how the install goes.


uuummm hey blown..........i just read your sig.... WTF hapend man!!!

 

[65fsbkhipo]

Ill post the link to the part i want to buy, it gets rid fo the "power cylender".....its hard to explain but just go to the link. and that the only piece i will need. http://store.cal-mustang.com/cm_able/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Product_ID=3133&CATID=19&CM_SA=0/QUOTE]

Take a look at this one...Manual Steering Adapter

 

[JimBowy]

****

 

[burnout289]

http://www.americanpony.com/store/store.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=SF&Product_Code=MagAd15-1

this is what i got. you don't have to take the valve off, just gut it and plug it. half the price, too.

edit: i love the banana.

 

[page62]

I spent a few more bucks and got the assembled unit:
http://www.americanpony.com/store.mv?p=700208

Now that my shock towers have been repaired and pulled apart -- plus a decent alignment from a shop that cared to do a good job -- the car goes down the road straight with no wander, and steering effort is very light.

Unless you parallel park 10 times a day, dump the power steering junk and do it!

 

[6cougar8]

You can remove certain components of the original valve and weld the end of it shut (once it is adjusted) then put it back on the car. Just remember how it was orientated before removing it.

Only thing about doing it this way is that you will still have a bit more slop in the steering then if you just convert it over using the manual parts. But, that's just me.

 

[70XR7ConvertCat]

http://www.americanpony.com/store/store.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=SF&Product_Code=MagAd15-1

this is what i got. you don't have to take the valve off, just gut it and plug it. half the price, too.

I hope that kit captures the ball stud in the control valve. If not, the valve will still actuate from side to side, and you'll have slop in the steering. I'd go with the manual adapter, but that's just me. If your control valve works at all, you may be able to sell it and recoup some of the cost.

Steve C.

 

[burnout289]

I hope that kit captures the ball stud in the control valve. If not, the valve will still actuate from side to side, and you'll have slop in the steering. I'd go with the manual adapter, but that's just me. If your control valve works at all, you may be able to sell it and recoup some of the cost.

comes with parts that get stuffed inside the control valve. but yeah, if you want to sell the unit, you'll want a kit that removes everything. but if you are going that route, wouldn't it be cheaper to get a manual centerlink & pitman arm that the $150 adapter?