Corrosion. Keep it or sell it?

I used to live in Minnesota,and I always stored my sports cars, and bought a beater for the winter months that way I never had that problem.I now live in South west Florida and can enjoy my Mustang all year long,I would repair it and buy a beater.

It's on 07 correct? Isn't the corrosiion warranty 5 years unlimted miles?
You need to hound them to fix it on their dime.

If they're going to pay half, I'd look into sanding, treating to a good 'prepped' metal condition then some self-etching primer topped with something like POR-15 then repainting those parts.

THEN... the rust will not return until long after you're dead.

Sparty92 said:

The car has a 3/36 warranty. Rust THROUGH warranty is 5 years/unlimited (I think). That is to say, unless your car looks like swiss cheese, they won't fix it if it's out of warranty.

My warranty expired in July of this year. The dealer said they would pay 1/2 to fix the problem, but as we all know....rust never sleeps. It will come back eventually. Maybe if I park it in the winter, it'll stay away longer.

I might look into getting a 5.0 if the rebates kick in. But I'd have to drive it at least 1 winter...most likely.

The thing that bums me out, is that I had a 1999 Civic Si with 130K miles. It was 6 years old and was not rusting. My Mustang is rusting at 3 years. Bull****.

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Take it to another dealer then. Plenty of people have had rust issues repaired under the corrosion warranty without there being holes in it.
Hell if you have to take a hammer and nail and make a small hole your self and just make it rough looking.

For your application, you'd prep the surface (painting over rust on a smmoth shiny finish will not do).

Apply self etching primer
Apply Por-15
Sand
Paint or take to a painter to finish

The hood is aluminum so you don't have to worry about rust. If you decided to get a new car try Ziebart. They spray rust proofing in the door seams and other rust prone areas.

These cars are notorious for corrosion issues. I live in floirda and it happened to the hood of my 07 amungst other friends s197's. Like they said, there's no guarantee it wont' come back or happen again if repaired or replaced. Sucks.

LEt's see some pictures of the doors.


When I got my 04 (gently used, never saw winter in until '09) I coated the door skins (where it's folded over inside) with lithium grease.

Fluid Film claims to starve off rust. I've also heard of a quality bar & chain lube being used as a rust proofing. Heavy tar will only trap the corrosion at this point and cause it to continue to fester.


Let's put it this way, even if we had KROWN from Canada, their requirement is to have the car washed once a week with a clean (not recycled) car wash.

I found that CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion inhibitor holds up the best.


IF you wash the car yourself, use Salt Away. Does a great job cleaning and supposedly protecting. I've used it for one winter now.

Cortec VpCI-368D

Valuegaurd is good stuff for summertime washings

Detail Wash

Here's rust proof testing

http://www.cortecvci.com/Publications/Reports/06-192-1125.pdf

Oil undercoating - Page 4 - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum


Oiling the under carriage

This gets into the alkalinity of soap

Rust Never Sleeps - 1130cc.com: The #1 Harley Davidson V-Rod Forum

I've used this before: Salt Away:

Salt-Away's Car, Truck, Motor Home Applications ...

Some blank metal testing...never tested against fluid film though...FF claims to beat it.

Competitiom

Make your own:

from this source: TIPS AND RECIPES
WAXOYL

Take a ½ kilogram of paraffin wax or candle making wax and grind it up with a cheese grater. Soak it in 2 liters of mineral spirits/ Paraffin/ Kerosene/ lamp oil/ Diesel until all of the wax is dissolved. It might take a couple of weeks. Stirring will cause most of the wax to dissolve, but soaking should take care of the rest, heating the mixture in hot water (no open flames) will add in the quick dissolving of the wax. Generally try to dissolve as much wax as the mineral spirits/ kerosene/ paraffin/lamp oil/ Diesel will hold. Pour one liter of mineral oil/ non-detergent motor oil into the dissolved mixture. If the mixture is too thick for spraying you can thin it further with more mineral spirits until it is of a spray-able consistency.

Application:

Buy any cheap engine spray gun at your local auto or tool store that carries air tools. You can also use a garden insecticide sprayer, although it will really make you tired. Rent or borrow an air compressor. If possible elevate your car so that you can get at the underside. (Remember to chock both front and rear wheels as you are going to work underneath the car.) First wash your truck's chassis, both inside and out, to get rid of all the mud, oil etc. Spray the solution onto the underside of the chassis and into every little hole, crack and crevice. Make sure you push the tip into the chassis to spray the inside of the chassis. Let the excess drip off. You will find that the solution will blend into all cracks and chips and if the chassis is scratched it will flow, covering the scratch. If there is existing rust the solution will be soaked up by the rust and thereby creating an oxygen free coating stopping the further rusting/corroding of the surface.

Repeat the above once a year if you live in an area where the roads are sprayed with salt. Once every two to three years if staying inland where it is dry and salt free.

The above information was received from the LRO list where various people contributed their own recipe. Most of the recipes was essentially the same varying only on which oil to use and discussing the pro's and con's of Mineral spirits/paraffin/ Kerosene/ lamp oil vs. Diesel etc.


Here is a recipe for home made "Waxoyl". It's an old fashioned rust treatment / undercoating:

2 1/2 quarts turpentine
12 oz. beeswax / candle wax
1 quart light machine oil

With a cheese shredder, cut the wax into the turpentine, stir until the wax has dissolved, (takes a long time; you can use very low heat (a warm room) to aid but be careful) and thin with the machine oil to a brushable / sprayable consistency. Apply liberally. You can use a hand spray bottle to get into closed-off sections if you have a small access hole.


Please be sensible when you make this stuff; don't go breathing the fumes or applying heat and burning down your house. If you have any doubts about it, err on the side of caution and just buy a commercially available product.

I personally like using a paintable undercoating covered with fluid film. Paintable undercoating goes on very thin, but maintains a nice skin and fluid film helps to seep through the UC and add a second layer of protection from rust through.

Sparty92 said:

Ok...

So I've noticed some small paint bubbles on the bottom of the driver's side door. I checked my hood, and I have some bubbles underneath that, as well.

I talked to the dealer today and he said it would be about $400 to fix the hood and maybe $75 per door/trunk if needed. He said it's not a permanent fix, and that all cars can have this same problem, regardless of brand.

I asked another reputable bump shop and they said the only way to fix it, is to replace the door/hood...etc. The aforementioned dealer said this would cost a LOT more $ and would not necessarily keep the problem from showing up as again, the parts all come from the same place and are constructed in the same manner.

I like my car. I have less than 2 years left to pay it off. I live in the rust belt. Who's to say a new 2011 won't have the same problem in 3 years?

Questions:

1. Will something like Ziebart put a stop to this problem?

2. Would you dump the car for a 2011-12?

3. If you got a new car would you have it "rust proofed"?

Thanks guys!

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See post above...

Then, keep it, pay it off and drive the heck out of it. It's a DD and it's already depreciated X amount of dollars and you still owe another two years on it; it's going to take some abuse.

If you're like me where you think you will always want to drive a 'Stang, pay this one off, save up in the mean time and 5 years down the road and buy one you can put in the garage while your current one becomes a beater w/a heater.

Bottom line... it's a hunk of steel and rubber with a badge on the side of it.

Notchbck93 said:

See post above...

Then, keep it, pay it off and drive the heck out of it. It's a DD and it's already depreciated X amount of dollars and you still owe another two years on it; it's going to take some abuse.

If you're like me where you think you will always want to drive a 'Stang, pay this one off, save up in the mean time and 5 years down the road and buy one you can put in the garage while your current one becomes a beater w/a heater.

Bottom line... it's a hunk of steel and rubber with a badge on the side of it.

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Better yet move to SOUTH Florida and you can drive it all year long I used to live in Minnesota then I retired no more rust or storage down time.

Sparty92 said:

I've been to two Ford dealers. They will not cover it. I'm lucky (I guess) that my dealer will pay for 1/2 of it, but their initial write-up had the driver's door being $250-ish. The 2nd dealer said "About $75 a door...." Sooo...

I've heard about "Paint over rust"....POR-15. Anyone know anything about that stuff? I guess you can clean the metal (or not) and just paint this stuff on top of the rust. Fix-ola.

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That right there should tell you there are looking to make the most money out of the deal. I bet you Ford would cover the repair, the dealer is just trying to make a few extra buck off of you.
If they are only charging you $250 or $75 a door those are some wildly different numbers. To fix it correctly, the door needs to come off the car, be dissassembled, paint removed, rust area cut out, new metal put in, smoothed over, primered, painted, re-assembled, put back on the car and aligned.

Just for the paint it would be more than the $250. It cost me $200 to get a color matching paint on my replacement fiberglass spoiler on my Trans Am. A door is a lot more.

5.0 Coyote said:

Better yet move to SOUTH Florida and you can drive it all year long I used to live in Minnesota then I retired no more rust or storage down time.

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My GT is my DD and so far no rust.

My Notch however only comes out when the planets are aligned. I spend most of my seat time strattled over two wheels; I motorcycle about 4-5,000 miles a year.