Couple of quick header install questions...

[Insane3D]

I just ordered a set of the FRPP ceramic shorties, and a set of ARP SS 1" long header bolts. I'm taking the POS BBK ceramic shorties that are in there now out, but I want to make sure I do things right with the aluminum heads.

First, the old headers were last messed with at a shop. I'm not sure if they used any sort of anti-sieze or anything, so I want to make sure I don't do any thread damage taking them out. I'm using the GT40 X305's. Is there any precautions I should take other than waiting until everything is completely cold?

Second, on the new SS ARP's, should I use some 1600F anti-sieze, or nothing at all?

Thanks..

 

[Insane3D]

Evening bump...

 

[DarkMesa8]

I just ordered a set of the FRPP ceramic shorties, and a set of ARP SS 1" long header bolts. I'm taking the POS BBK ceramic shorties that are in there now out, but I want to make sure I do things right with the aluminum heads.

First, the old headers were last messed with at a shop. I'm not sure if they used any sort of anti-sieze or anything, so I want to make sure I don't do any thread damage taking them out. I'm using the GT40 X305's. Is there any precautions I should take other than waiting until everything is completely cold?

Second, on the new SS ARP's, should I use some 1600F anti-sieze, or nothing at all?

Thanks..

I would hope they didn't use anti sieze, if anything they should've used loc-tite. You want header bolts tight as hell, or most of the time you get a ticking leak.

The odds of you damaging a thread removing them are very low, if you manage to damage it during removal let me know and I'll send you a trophy. Its more likely that a bolt would break than strip on the way out, and the odds of it breaking will depend on how recently they were installed. The threat of stripping a thread comes during the install, and since your FRPP headers are brand new they should line right up, unlike used MAC headers which require a pry-bar.

For the bolts, I would find approriately sized lockwashers and tighten the hell out of them dry. I've never had to use loctite, but a friend did and used red loctite.

Keep the antisieze for your spark plugs, upper intake bolts and exhaust flange bolts. You don't want these header bolts coming out without your permission.

 

[Insane3D]

Thanks for the advice. From what I've been researching, the loctite won't really work well at those temps, and it's not really needed with the one piece flange of the FRPP headers.

I know what you mean on the MAC headers. I have the older BBK ceramics on there now, before they came with a one piece flange, and I had to do the same thing.

As for the spark plugs, I've haven't used anti-sieze the past few changes and they come out ok...should I start doing that?

 

[DarkMesa8]

Thanks for the advice. From what I've been researching, the loctite won't really work well at those temps, and it's not really needed with the one piece flange of the FRPP headers.

I know what you mean on the MAC headers. I have the older BBK ceramics on there now, before they came with a one piece flange, and I had to do the same thing.

As for the spark plugs, I've haven't used anti-sieze the past few changes and they come out ok...should I start doing that?

How often are they changed? If you're like I used to be, checking them every month than I'd say no, it'd be more of a mess than a help.

But lately I haven't had as much time, plugs will spend months in the motor without me touching them. I use antisieze whenever I do get to them.

 

[Insane3D]

I usually change them at least once per year..usually twice.

I guess from now on I'll use it...can't hurt.