MafPlugs only have about 100 miles or less
I bet it's speed density, the pic of the plug is not clear but I don't see a maf
mafI bet it's speed density, the pic of the plug is not clear but I don't see a maf
MafPlugs only have about 100 miles or less
I bet it's speed density, the pic of the plug is not clear but I don't see a maf
mafI bet it's speed density, the pic of the plug is not clear but I don't see a maf
That’s the only thing I haven’t checked but my afr gauge shows 14-15 for both banks. Yes they’re both for 19Test the MAF its definitely running rich!! Your sure the injectors are 19# and the MAF is for 19# injectors?
Has it always showed that? Those plugs dont indicate an afr of 14-15That’s the only thing I haven’t checked but my afr gauge shows 14-15 for both banks. Yes they’re both for 19
Is the dark colour on the plugs soot or oil?
When you set the idle, did you unplug BOTH the spout connector AND IAC plug? Before I set idle this way I would still get surging and stumbling issues.
What is your timing set at?
Is your car a factory 5 spd car or auto swap?
Is the MAF stock or aftermarket? If aftermarket, which one?
Here is a cold start video of mine from last summer. I have similar mods and have the dual wideband as well.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qU6MAVZAcQU&t=10s
Is the dark colour on the plugs soot or oil?
When you set the idle, did you unplug BOTH the spout connector AND IAC plug? Before I set idle this way I would still get surging and stumbling issues.
What is your timing set at?
Is your car a factory 5 spd car or auto swap?
Is the MAF stock or aftermarket? If aftermarket, which one?
Here is a cold start video of mine from last summer. I have similar mods and have the dual wideband as well.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qU6MAVZAcQU&t=10s
It is an A9LAh……auto swap. Let’s dig into that a bit.
What ECU are you using? The aod one?
You definitely need to do both.No I didn’t unplug the spout connector only the iac
It is an A9L
Where did you get this info? This is a very mildly modded setup, 19#s will run that all day long.As I read the rundown of the engine build I see some inconsistencies....First are the injectors Second is the fuel pressure.
A B303 camshaft if Im not mistaken takes a 24 lb injector minimal and even if you boosted the fuel pressure to say 47lbs to increase duty cycle it still wont run right ..
You'll also need like a 76mm MAF and then have that MAF profile transferred in......
For your setup Id have no smaller than 30lb injectors w/340lph pump and have a Kirkey Adjusable Fuel Pressure regulator along with 76mm MAF.
After matching it all up youre gonna need someone to change the parameters in the ECU to match...especially the TPS, spark and fuel parameters.........
Good Luck
Its KNOWN FORD INFO....Look up B303 Camshaft recommendations and it says 24lb injectors....19's wont flow enough and besides if the flow exceeds the MAFs transfer settings it will go into limp mode everytime it does.....,Where did you get this info? This is a very mildly modded setup, 19#s will run that all day long.
Theres also info all over the info regarding crank hp to injector size like this chart they have at Summit.Its KNOWN FORD INFO....Look up B303 Camshaft recommendations and it says 24lb injectors....19's wont flow enough and besides if the flow exceeds the MAFs transfer settings it will go into limp mode everytime it does.....,
Im running a .477/.493 camshaft specs and I have to run 36lb injectors minimal in my 408 and it doesnt spin higher than 5500rpm's and is built for brutal torque....a b303 cam is bigger....LOL
Im not green to tuning..........
Agreed. At 5500 rpm your 408 is moving 649 cfm of air and needs an appropriate amount of fuel. The OPs 306 at the same 5500 rpm is only moving 487 cfm, much less fuel required. Your 408 pulls 33% more air and thus will need 33% more fuel.It’s a 306. It’s not moving anywhere near the amount of air your 408 is moving so the fuel requirements are going to be much less.
Yeah i worked hard on that write up. You could have just linked it like we normally do.......You definitely need to do both.
Follow the below steps. It is compiled by others here (just search Base Idle Reset). I found this condensed summary easier to follow and as mentioned was created by others much more knowledgeable than I on the topic. I just know it worked for me.
Before you start:
-Make sure your distributor will allow full movement to adjust timing. Things could move once you actually set everything correctly. My TFI hit the thermostat protrusion of the lower intake and would only go to 6 or 7 degrees. If I stabbed it the other way it was useless. So guess what. This meant I had compensated for the low timing and low idle with the throttle blade stop. This also meant that once I set timing properly, everything else was off a decent amount. I had to clearance the corner of the TFI module in order to get total adjustability. You can't know these things unless you go ahead and set the timing.
-Car out of gear, e brake on, timing light set up, multimeter ready for the TPS adjustment, all necessary tools ready.
Now do the process.
1. Warm the engine up to normal operating temperature.
2. Turn all accessories off. Lights, radio, hvac, etc.
3. Unplug the IAC electrical connector.
4. Remove the spout plug at the distributor connection.
5. Start the engine.
6. Idle the car to 600-650rpm using the throttle blade stop.
7. Turn the engine off but leave the key in the on position.
8. At this point you can set the TPS. (I'm not getting into the TPS setting debate. Put it on .9 anything and it's fine.)
9. Turn off the ignition and reconnect the IAC electrical connector and plug the spout plug back in.
10. Disconnect the negative battery terminal!!!! Let the car sit for at least 30 minutes.
11. Reconnect the battery.
12. You should still have all electrical accessories off. Start the car and let it run for 2 minutes. You should see the computer make adjustments. Time this with your phone or watch. Don't guess at it.
13. Turn the car off for 2 minutes.
14. Now turn the HVAC blower motor to high. Turn the A/C to Max. Turn the headlights on. Turn the radio on. 70's or 80's stations give the best results!
15. Start the car and let it run for two minutes. Don't guess at the time.
16. Turn the car off.
You should now have the base idle reset done and your car hopefully won't stall every time you stop. It should have better manners across the board.
This should clear up -- when to plug the spout connector back in, when to disconnect the battery, and how long to wait for the computer to make adjustments, and the process of starting the car once with all accessories off then again with all on.
Hope this complete list can make it in a spot just for base idle reset only. It's sole purpose is to help folks.
This process assumes you don't have vac leaks, bad plugs, wires or other things. Basically a sound engine system to begin with.
Also, to clarify my set up a bit in the video. It is an auto swap that is still using the A9P computer. It has 24lb injectors, Explorer intakes, 76mm C&L MAF, Crower 15512 cam with 1.7 RR (.512/.544), GT40 iron heads