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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

Dual Rear Mount Battery Options

  • Thread starter Thread starter Gear grabber
  • Start date Start date May 14, 2017

Gear grabber

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May 23, 2016
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May 14, 2017
#1
  • May 14, 2017
  • #1
Need to decide what battery's to use.
2 optima red tops,77 lb. 350.00
2 big optima yellow top,106 lb. 420.00
1 red,1 big yellow optima,92 lb. 397.00
2 advance auto parts, house brand. (platinum agm) 119 lb.
375.00 with coupon, -44.00 if I can find 2 cores.
I need ballast,120 lb. does not bother me at all.
 

jrichker

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#2
  • May 14, 2017
  • #2
What are you doing that requires 2 large batteries?
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#3
  • May 14, 2017
  • #3
Try'n to pull wheelies?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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#4
  • May 14, 2017
  • #4
Can't really answer without know what you are trying to do. Just for weight? Or powering s big stereo?
 

Gear grabber

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May 23, 2016
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May 15, 2017
#5
  • May 15, 2017
  • #5
For ballast,no big stereo.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
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#6
  • May 15, 2017
  • #6
I would take weight off the front first. I think there is a thread here someplace on that subject, let me look
This was kinda interesting:

http://forums.stangnet.com/704713-g...ome-parts-t5-stock-hood-fender-heads-etc.html

Here is another interesting thread:

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/bob-cosbys-12-second-recipe.853108/
Don't know what your goal is but I would put your car on a diet, then move the weight around for better traction.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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May 15, 2017
#7
  • May 15, 2017
  • #7
In that case, it seems the best dollar for lb ratio is the advanced auto batteries...even without the cores.

you'll need battery boxes and vents with the wet style battery though.


Why not just run single battery and mount some weights in the corner
 
Last edited: May 15, 2017

TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
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May 15, 2017
#8
  • May 15, 2017
  • #8
If you don't need the second batttery why not just mount extra weight on the other side then ?
 

Gear grabber

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May 23, 2016
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May 15, 2017
#9
  • May 15, 2017
  • #9
I have about 100 lb. of ballast now. Would like to pull some out,and start at +75 lb.
If I get to the point where I can use more initial,a second battery will be needed when it is heat soaked.
I made the mistake of going to a shorter tire (26.4x11.50 QTP) and the car went backwards. Right from
the get go,the fresh tires were worse then the worn out 27's.
 

Gear grabber

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May 23, 2016
283
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May 15, 2017
#10
  • May 15, 2017
  • #10
As for weight on the front, alternator is the only thing the motor turns,front sway bar is gone,
glass hood,skinnies. I have a new set of M/T sportsman fronts,to replace the hokey,vw radials.
Same weight 16 lb.
 

RangerJoe

I leave the horn on while driving
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#11
  • May 15, 2017
  • #11
Interesting. What is the combo, power, weight, launch rpm, etc.?

Joe
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
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#12
  • May 15, 2017
  • #12
Sounds like a race car, didn't catch that, lets see some pics and like joe said what cha run'n?
 

Gear grabber

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May 23, 2016
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May 16, 2017
#13
  • May 16, 2017
  • #13
Nothing fancy,pump gas street car,that needs sorting.
Nearly made the classic mistake of adding power (nitrous)
to a car that does not work. Gathered some suspension parts
that will be going in soon.
 

RangerJoe

I leave the horn on while driving
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#14
  • May 16, 2017
  • #14
I spent 2 or 3 years fighting the sane problems. I currently run 26x10.5 bias ply, smaller than yours. 1.5x 60 foots regularly. It is all in the suspension. I think adding weight is going backwards.

I am in the process of adding nitrous myself. Should be fun!

What suspension parts are you going with?
Joe
 

Gear grabber

Well-Known Member
May 23, 2016
283
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63
May 16, 2017
#15
  • May 16, 2017
  • #15
It is a street car that needs to hook on the street. Dart 427 stick car will need
ballast no matter what. (on the street) I picked up maximum motorsports
extreme duty lower control arms,mm castor camber plates,offset rack bushings,
bumpsteer kit. Rim screws. I have 0 gauge wire,going to order some good terminals
and cutoff switch today. Thinking I will weld tabs to the roll bar for grounds.
 
D

Dart68

Member
Jun 6, 2016
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May 16, 2017
#16
  • May 16, 2017
  • #16
RangerJoe said:
I spent 2 or 3 years fighting the sane problems. I currently run 26x10.5 bias ply, smaller than yours. 1.5x 60 foots regularly. It is all in the suspension. I think adding weight is going backwards.

I am in the process of adding nitrous myself. Should be fun!

What suspension parts are you going with?
Joe
Click to expand...
Moving weight from the front to the rear is best, but adding weight may not be a bad thing. I depends on where it is and if it would solve a traction problem. Yes, adding weight makes the car heavier but if you can't hook you're going to be spending time repaving the street/track with your expensive rubber instead of propelling the car forward. As an example, take a look at pro stock cars. You'll most likely see weights added in strategic places.

I've though about drag racing an El Camino or Ranchero. The problem is the weight distribution. There is relatively no weight over the rear wheels and it's hard to shift enough weight to the rear. Adding some weight over the rear wheels would help a lot.
 

RangerJoe

I leave the horn on while driving
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May 16, 2017
#17
  • May 16, 2017
  • #17
We are talking about a Mustang, not an el camino. Unless he is making crazy HP, which he still hasn't told us, the added weight isn't needes with the tires he is running.

I do agree with you on weight distribution, but adding weight is a band aid, most likely, in his situation.

Joe
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
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May 16, 2017
#18
  • May 16, 2017
  • #18
We need some pics and some more info on what your running, unless it a secret,
 
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