EGR Elimination?

clifdawg

New Member
Jan 23, 2004
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Georgia
When I do away with my egr and smog pump, can I get rid of the ugly confusing solenoids, etc. behind the passenger shock tower? What about vacuum lines? Plug em all off? Or is their a re-routing process? The wires going to solenoids and EGR? Can I hide or do away with them? :shrug: I'm definitely wanting to uncrowd the engine bay and lower the amount of components to plug in and manage under my hood when I do my rebuild soon. Advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Also, what bad things have y'all heard about removing egr, etc, other than emission penalties, which I will not get in my area? Thanks.
-Clifton
 
Okay, if you remove the smog pump, you can remove the hardlines and all vacuum selenoids that run down the passenger side of the motor. Run a short belt or get a bypass pulley from the aftermarket for blower usage.

For the EGR, you can remove the valve but you either need a plate (requires an intake spacer) or plug the rear of the EGR spacer (you can modify a 351c fuel pump plate to work). Then remove the water lines going to the EGR and plug. Now remove the EGR vacuum lines and all the selenoids on the passenger side strut tower. There is ONE line that runs into the vacuum reservoir in the passenger side fender -- black vacuum line that Ts from the line coming across the engine bay fireway and splits with the heater controls inside the cabin. LEAVE that one alone. Now remove the hardlines from the back of the head, plug the back of BOTH heads and where the line connects into the H pipe.

You will need a device such as an EGR simulator or Tweecer type of tune on the ECC.

Instead of plugging vaccum lines, you can get new ends from parts stores or junkyards with a single or double fitting instead of the stock 3 or 2 output rubber fitting. Makes it look factory! The only vacuum line on the passenger side beyond the black one along the firewall with be for the FPR.

Now when you scan codes, you will always get a 44 and 94 telling you the EGR system is not working. But no CE light will come on.
 
Also, if you can't find the simulator on ebay, you can get it by following these directions:
Go here: http://svo73mm.cjb.net/
Then, click on "My Mustang," then scroll down in Matt's list of engine parts and find where it says "Deleted air pump and EGR," the word EGR will be a link to another website with simulators, thermactor elimatation kits, etc. Some pretty neat stuff. [Sorry I did not have direct link, my computer just screwed up. It was actually trying to kick me off because I've got the "error" popup on the screen, but I'm still on.] The website with the link on it belongs to Matt90GT (the one who gave us all the info), so thank him doubly.

Stang22, the only other advantage I can think of for removing this stuff is for less confusion when you have to reattach vacuum lines and electrical plugs after having to do work on your engine. I'm fixing to pull my engine out w/in the next week, and while it's at the machine shop, I wanted to clean up the bay a little, so I had to get some things straight before I just start ripping stuff out, or leaving unnecessay stuff in.

Thank you all!

-Clifton
 
clifdawg said:
Stang22, the only other advantage I can think of for removing this stuff is for less confusion when you have to reattach vacuum lines and electrical plugs after having to do work on your engine. I'm fixing to pull my engine out w/in the next week, and while it's at the machine shop, I wanted to clean up the bay a little, so I had to get some things straight before I just start ripping stuff out, or leaving unnecessay stuff in.

Thank you all!

-Clifton

My engine has been out for a few months while I cleanup the engine bay and re-build the motor etc, I think I will just leave mine on. Thanks,

Tim