Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches
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You know........They make really large tubes of that stuff tooWorld domination awaits.....
Would have posted sooner but had to run errands and yard work.
Here she is all done, will need to be surfaced and the meth nozzles installed but that's easy to do later.
that's some very wrinkly paint. Should be enough to cover up the craptackular job I did on it.
Next up is the injector bungs, I got some steel strap from Lowe's to bend my holddowns/stands for the rail. I will just get things lined up and tacked for now then remove the rail from the car and modify it for the blower before making things permanent.
Here she is all done, will need to be surfaced and the meth nozzles installed but that's easy to do later.
Next up is the injector bungs, I got some steel strap from Lowe's to bend my holddowns/stands for the rail. I will just get things lined up and tacked for now then remove the rail from the car and modify it for the blower before making things permanent.
Today I mocked up the rails and figured out my fuel rail supports. Then I proceeded to tack weld the injector bungs, I knew right away this was not going to go well..... the manifold IS cast aluminum so it doesn't weld well without a tig, I went for it anyway. I brushed cleaned used all manor of acetone and made the tack welds. Then I attempted a full weld on each one and started to smooth the welds with a dremel. Didn't get far before the weld separated from the manifold.
So I cleaned brushed and tried again with slightly better results with a torch preheat.... as much as i hate to do it I may have to outsource this part, i dont have the proper welder to do this right and im not playing around when it comes down to the fuel system.
I am going to call around tomorrow and see if any of the shops in town can do this type of work, that is unless I can find a a.c. capable welder close by that I can use. (Not likely)
So I cleaned brushed and tried again with slightly better results with a torch preheat.... as much as i hate to do it I may have to outsource this part, i dont have the proper welder to do this right and im not playing around when it comes down to the fuel system.
I am going to call around tomorrow and see if any of the shops in town can do this type of work, that is unless I can find a a.c. capable welder close by that I can use. (Not likely)
I know it's nice to be able to do things yourself but this is one of those things where it'd be best to outsource it. There's no shame in it and we'd hate to see a fire start under your hood from fuel spraying out all over the engine.Today I mocked up the rails and figured out my fuel rail supports. Then I proceeded to tack weld the injector bungs, I knew right away this was not going to go well..... the manifold IS cast aluminum so it doesn't weld well without a tig, I went for it anyway. I brushed cleaned used all manor of acetone and made the tack welds. Then I attempted a full weld on each one and started to smooth the welds with a dremel. Didn't get far before the weld separated from the manifold.
So I cleaned brushed and tried again with slightly better results with a torch preheat.... as much as i hate to do it I may have to outsource this part, i dont have the proper welder to do this right and im not playing around when it comes down to the fuel system.
I am going to call around tomorrow and see if any of the shops in town can do this type of work, that is unless I can find a a.c. capable welder close by that I can use. (Not likely)
I know! Fire bad...
I found a place to help me out, all the machine shops in the area could not weld aluminum.... how the
can you run a machine shop without being able to fix aluminum?
Anyway the last place I called told me there welder was down for repair but referred me to a airboat shop, Monday I will go down there and meet the guy so he can see what I've got going on.
I found a place to help me out, all the machine shops in the area could not weld aluminum.... how the
can you run a machine shop without being able to fix aluminum?Anyway the last place I called told me there welder was down for repair but referred me to a airboat shop, Monday I will go down there and meet the guy so he can see what I've got going on.
I have been looking for a "DIY" solution for you, but haven't had any luck. I was trying to find NPT threaded injector bungs, but haven't found any. I just can't believe that all of you guys don't have access to your "good ol' boy network" like I have here in Birmingham,....I could take that intake right now, and get it tigged for free,..worst case it'd cost me a lunch for the guy, and it'd be beautiful...
Where are all of those guys in Florida?....You work on freaking roller coasters for Christs sake...Seems that there's somebody out there that you know..
If you have a drill press and aren't just doing this with a hand drill, measure the od of the bungs, dill the intake 1/64 under, then ream the holes with a .001 under reamer, then press them in with some epoxy on them.
Mike is correct, there is no going back now. We do have a fab shop here with the equipment, however if we get caught using any tools owned by corporate America.... we find a new job. I'm not going to chance it.
Hit up one of the guys that work in that fab shop, I bet someone has the stuff at home to do it.
Already did.... no luck.
However one of the old guys in my shop asked me what I was talking on the phone about. (Just called a few places) and I told him what I was trying to accomplish. He said he has a friend who fabs aluminum for boats and he is a car guy... he's going over there on Monday and told me he would give me a call to come meet his friend.
guy even has a Bridgeport!!!!!!!
IF you have enough thickness of the metal to tap a hole in the place where the injector bung goes, here is an answer. You will need a minimum of 3 or 4 full threads to make this work.
Step1.) Figure out what O.D. the injector bung needs to be to match the size of a common pipe thread, SAE or metric bolt. Get you micrometer or dial indicator calipers out, you are going to need them.
Step 2.) Most of us don't have access to a metal turning lathe, but we do have access to a good drill press. Put a nut and bolt that is snug fit in the injector bung together and chuck the bolt up in the drill press. Set the drill press at the highest speed it will run and still be stable enough to do good work. Get out a good quality flat file, turn the drill press on and file away on the spinning injector bung. Keep the dial calipers or micrometer handy and make repeated checks of your progress. Check for O.D. and for taper to make sure that you have removed the right amount of metal.
Step 3.) Google Taps and dies to find a convenient source for the tap & die you will need.
Step 4.) If you used a straight thread instead of a pipe thread, you will need to make a 1/8" wide chamfer in the intake manifold. This will provide a place for the O ring you will use to seal the injector bung to the intake manifold. A small amount of Locktite will need to be applied to the last lower threads of the tapped hole in the intake manifold. This will keep the injector bung from backing out.
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Have to back on Thursday after I cold tack (mig) my other 4 bungs....
this is Steve, he owns a airboat/fab shop. Really good welder.
Intake is done, need a cleaned and painted. Waiting for the other machine shop to call me and let me know if they can cut the center out of my crank trigger wheel. I don't understand what is so difficult about what I need done, just get out of my way and let me use the equipment I'll be out of here in 10 friggin minuets .... 
Intake is done, need a cleaned and painted. Waiting for the other machine shop to call me and let me know if they can cut the center out of my crank trigger wheel. I don't understand what is so difficult about what I need done, just get out of my way and let me use the equipment I'll be out of here in 10 friggin minuets ....
With a 4 jaw chuck on a lathe, it will take more time than that just to center the work up so that it is concentric. I have been there and done that...