Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

http://www.ftrs.com.au/redkote/about.php

Red Kote is a fuel tank liner. Says it's even resistant to E85.

Be careful that you get the tank completely clean when you use this or the sht won't stick....I used it on the red car, and it worked great,..I used it on the monster and.............

20170211_161122_zpsprtifdgm-jpg-574974-jpg.575069.jpg

Not so great.

This was a new tank....coated inside w/ a thin film of oil to resist corrosion,....and to guarantee that the red kote sht didn't stick.

Remember my troubles w/ fuel at the beginning of the year?..
 
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http://www.ftrs.com.au/redkote/about.php

Red Kote is a fuel tank liner. Says it's even resistant to E85.

Be careful that you get the tank completely clean when you use this or the sht won't stick....I used it on the red car, and it worked great,..I used it on the monster and.............

20170211_161122_zpsprtifdgm-jpg-574974-jpg.575069.jpg

Not so great.

This was a new tank....coated inside w/ a thin film of oil to resist corrosion,....and to guarantee that the red kote sht didn't stick.

Remember my troubles w/ fuel at the beginning of the year?..
I do remember what happened to you Mike he'll of a mess. I will look into it I really like the look of the fabricated tank. Heck I have my tig welder back if I can source some ss sheet metal a cap assembly and a bulkhead I can make my own.

Edit: on second thought no I don't want to make my own. I want this thing back on the road.
 
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Fwiw- one of my many 'jobs' at work, is to repair old junky rusty fuel tanks. And red kote is one of the products I use.When I coat a tank,I wash it with dawn soap and water. Dry it. Pour acid in it and slosh it around,let it sit for an hour etc then I drain the acid-rinse it with water,vacuum out all the water. And then finally dry it out with acetone and an air nozzle.
IMG_1997.JPG
 
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Tonight I'm going to prebuild some edis harness, I got a big bag of goodies in the mail. Including these sweet little things.
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If they are half as good as the internetz claim them to be I will be pleased.

Collin should be grabbing me some pics of the fuel cell tonight if that does not work out I may try a pool supply store for a tank. I really like the aluminum one it comes with the fuel level sender and it's aluminum..... I may remove all the fuel foam and take it along with an armfull of other parts down to have them anodized..... I wonder if they can do that to regular (nonpolished) parts.... heck I'll have them do the whole intake elbow and all if the price is right.
20170821_123916.jpg

Ready for harness wiring action! Also got the fuel/ac line tool and a new pressure hose for the p.s. pump. I have not decided yet if I want to go with the turbo coupe pump and a remote reservoir.....
 
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No real reason to keep the old plug on the car. I'd remove it and keep it in a safe place. That way you can route the wires specifically for the edis8.

I'm watching this part of your thread very close. The trigger wheel has been the only thing holding me up from doing the swap. There was a thread somewhere that said an escort trigger wheel fit a mustang crank pulley perfectly...its also 36-1. I haven't found one in the yard yet to test this theory , but the guy in the thread did use one and welded it to his stock steel crank pulley.
 
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I will hunt the yard tomorrow for just that, if all else fails I'm going to cut it myself.

Big thing is figuring out where to put the edis module, nothing is tucked on my build so I'm not worried about hiding it. Basically wherever the TFI harness reaches is an option.

The coils will be mounted near the firewall to make wire routing simple.

But cart before horse at this point..... i need to get the manifold on the car and the trigger wheel mounted.
 
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I will hunt the yard tomorrow for just that, if all else fails I'm going to cut it myself.

Big thing is figuring out where to put the edis module, nothing is tucked on my build so I'm not worried about hiding it. Basically wherever the TFI harness reaches is an option.

The coils will be mounted near the firewall to make wire routing simple.

But cart before horse at this point..... i need to get the manifold on the car and the trigger wheel mounted.
I spliced the ends of the EDIS module plug, and the coil pack plugs into the MS harness. I mounted them on the frame rail in front of the say bar mount on the passenger side apron to get them away from engine heat. I know that they were built to withstand that, but I figured it couldn't hurt.

What kind of balancer are you using? I purposely mounted my TW on the back to avoid all of the pulley interference/clearance issues that would have compounded had I mount the thing in front. Do you have room behind to do that?
 
I spliced the ends of the EDIS module plug, and the coil pack plugs into the MS harness. I mounted them on the frame rail in front of the say bar mount on the passenger side apron to get them away from engine heat. I know that they were built to withstand that, but I figured it couldn't hurt.

What kind of balancer are you using? I purposely mounted my TW on the back to avoid all of the pulley interference/clearance issues that would have compounded had I mount the thing in front. Do you have room behind to do that?
I looked at that yesterday Mike, my balancer is one of those fluid types.... I'm afraid to tap the thing. It's also been balanced to match the rest of my rotating assembly..... I don't want to test it.

So I did get my coils another edis8 module and a few vr sensors from the yard today. Considering I got all of it for the cost of one vr sensor that's not too shabby.

I will mount the edis8 module out of the way I don't want any chance of it getting messed with by the coil discharge.

I measured my pulley at just under 5" so I grabbed a 5" holesaw on my way back from the yard. I need to go check if it's going to work.
 
Ok so I went out and got something done.

20170822_175525.jpg
found a press in bushing that fit after some step bit work. A 5" holesaw seemed to be the right tool.

20170822_182153.jpg
would be perfect If the pulley wasn't so close to the ring size... I'm afraid the sensor may not like it.
I will figure something out..
 
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when you bolt it down, put a couple washers between the pulley and the wheel to space it out (assuming you're either going to tap the pulley or drill thru and use some bolts and nuts in those slots). if you weld it, same principle, just space it a bit away. also might be a good idea once its permanently attached to chuck the whole assembly in a lathe (it's even easier to hold now), check the runout, and do a quick finish turn if its off.
 
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Stop giving me ideas, Steve. I bet that pulley would fit on the brake lathe at work....don't think the cutting bits would like it much though. A machine shop would be a better choice...I guess. As long as they can chock it up. :nice: