Ok so I went out and got something done.
found a press in bushing that fit after some step bit work. A 5" holesaw seemed to be the right tool.
would be perfect If the pulley wasn't so close to the ring size... I'm afraid the sensor may not like it.
I will figure something out..
You think outside the box...That's why...If I can cut the center out of the damn thing in less than 20mins start to finish with close to no equipment. How can a fully equipped shop not be able to.?
Ok so I went out and got something done.
found a press in bushing that fit after some step bit work. A 5" holesaw seemed to be the right tool.
would be perfect If the pulley wasn't so close to the ring size... I'm afraid the sensor may not like it.
I will figure something out..
Good job so far...Have you checked the runout on your toothed wheel to be sure that welding it didn't warp it any?Today I mounted the trigger wheel.
The pictorial story.
using two pressure clamps I centered the wheel on the pulley, this worked well I then drilled pilot holes thru the assembly I used these screws as a means to locate the pulley during welding. here you can see I set washers around the outside edge of the trigger wheel these functioned as spacers. You can also see that this side has been welded, amazing what 10 mins and a tig can accomplish.
spacing is 3/8 of an inch, in hindsight I should have made it larger but from what I have read this will work. My only concern is loosing the belt and taking out the sensor. Many people mount these things on the outside of the crank so I'm not going to worry to much about it.
I ran out of time today, after a clean up I will toss some paint on it, maybe Ford grey.
I keep tellin him he's missing out on an opportunity..Nice. Wanna do mine? haha
I have not, how could I go about this with simple tools?Good job so far...Have you checked the runout on your toothed wheel to be sure that welding it didn't warp it any?
What did you read about needing to space it off of the pulley? Is there s'posed to be some sort of potential interference if it's mounted directly to a metal surface, or did you do that to get more clearance for the VR senor?
***Edit** I just went back and looked,... I answered the spacing question myself. NM
I can you just have to send the parts to me shoot me a text.Nice. Wanna do mine? haha
We need to talk about how I could go about this without breaking any "rules".I keep tellin him he's missing out on an opportunity..
I have not, how could I go about this with simple tools?
.
if you have an indicator and a mag base (you really should if you're this deep into engines, amazon has dirt cheap chinesium sets for less than $40), bolt your pulley on the balancer, balancer to motor, zero out indicator on od of teeth, and rotate engine by hand. do the same with the face of the trigger wheel.
Yeah if I'm gonna spend 40$ I'll just take it down and have it put on a lathe. Great idea though and I'm sure I could find more than one use for it.if you have an indicator and a mag base (you really should if you're this deep into engines, amazon has dirt cheap chinesium sets for less than $40), bolt your pulley on the balancer, balancer to motor, zero out indicator on od of teeth, and rotate engine by hand. do the same with the face of the trigger wheel.
No problem if/when let me know. I can't use that fuel cell BTW it's way to big. I think I may just buy the 1gallon tank and be done with it.Hah, man I gotta long ways to go until then. F'n machine shop isn't in the loop on my sense of urgency. Plus this hurricane is screwing things up.
NM I gave in adjustable dial indicator with mag base will be here soon. Now I can focus on the other stuff like swapping the intake manifold, mounting the blower, modifying the injector rail, making coil mounts, vr sensor bracket, ignition module install...... that's half the list.
Going edis is supposed to really help timing control. Glad your doing this so we can see it done.
This is using an edis8 module with coil packs wired in wasted spark, it is a common megasquirt mod to most builds and is more accurate than a distributor. I am doing this solely for one single reason, The blower snout will pass thru the area the distributor used to. There is physically no room for the distributor.Do you need more timing control? Or is it just the ECU that can control timing better? Are you going to program individual spark timing per cylinder? Basically...why does a street car need this? I use it on my race car as individual timing comes in handy at 1,200 HP and 8,000 plus rpm. I understand why the auto manufactures use it, but they have a lot of processing power behind the various spark timing curves per cylinder for various reasons, like say, emissions or part throttle load/no load situations. Can the average Joe even begin to take advantage of this type of timing control? If you can use it to it's full advantage, how much better is it over a good dist set up. Would it show up on the dyno? Would it show up in day to day driving? Or is this being done just because?
I can see that as being nice for an all out setup. It's a shame you still need the cam sensor, I like the trigger wheel as it takes the #1 reading from the missing tooth. No need for a cam signal at all, it can be integrated for a second reading if one so desired.Thats cool, was asking out of curiosity. My racecar has an MSD crank trigger with 4 pick-up points. The dist is now just a cam sensor. The reluctor wheel has only one window now and is phased as the #1 cylinder identifier. It triggers a signal at 10* BTDC and then the crank trigger see's a signal about 50* btdc and uses that to control ignition timing and sequential injector timing. Thus the reason for only 4 pick-up points on the crank trigger wheel. Two revolutions equal 8 signals for the 8 cylinders. It is nice to be able to go in and take away one degree of timing from just the one cylinder that has to much ignition timing instead of having to kill 1* on all 8 cylinders, or go in and add 1% fuel to that one cylinder that is running lean instead of having to fatten up the whole engine.
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