Extremely Low Mpg...why???

Charcoal canister purge.

Joel is correct. The resistors should cause a code 33 which doesn't trip the cel and disables the EGR function. So after youninstall, pull codes and confirm 33
 
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I set up the base idle speed with IAC disconnected and TPS to 0.99 Volt. Adjusted the timing to 12 degree and disconnected the battery for like 30 min, then connected the IAC. I then connected the battery and pull the codes. There was code 31 so I took her for a short ride for warm up. When I got home I installed the resistor plug in the EGR pigtail, started the engine and then ran a KOER. There were codes 12, 94, 44, 33, and 13 in that order. Codes 94 and 44 are not that big of a deal and code 33 was expected to be there. on the other hand codes 12 and 13 are Idle speed, but how come I have 12 (Idle out of range high) and 13 (Idle out of range low) on the same scan?????

Please explain this to me... Thank you!!!
 
Update:
I've been working on the two issues, extremely low mpg and idle surging.

Idle surging I believe contributes to the first issue.

On idle surging I reseted the Idle speed using three different methods with very little improvement.

Ran KOEO and shows and everything is OK, codes 11-10-11

Ran KOER end had the expected codes 44, 94, and 33

For the high fuel consumption I still have to replace the O2 sensors and probably the MAF. I'm getting frustrated because I haven't see any improvements yet☹️
 
Hi all,
While troubleshooting my surging problem I removed the IAC valve, there are two round ports. My question is an unplugged valve supposed to be fully closed? That is no air thru the two ports, right? I have five darn valves and all of them are open. If I blow into one port is open to the other port. Is this norma???
Please need your help!

IMG_1074.JPG
 
Thank you!
My idle seems to be more stable with minimum surging.

As for the high fuel consumption I installed an adjustable FPR and adjusted the fuel pressure from 39 psi to ~36 psi. I'm trying to compensate for the low vacuum numbers (~8 - 9 in) and its inability to regulate the pressure, one of my conjectures. She feels much stronger and the raw fuel smell came down considerably. Any comments on this??

Also I've been looking for a possible vacuum leak that affect the somewhat low numbers, but by God I can't find no traces of leaks. Removed the upper intake and saw a bit of blowby signs, as I was there I removed the valve covers and readjusted my RR since they were a bit noisy, giving a 3/8 of a turn of preload to the lifters (Close to 0.020") will se how they sound at fire up. I heard that magnum RR are naturally noisy.

Sorry to mix subjects on this post but some of them have something to do with the over fueling problem, at least my common sense tells me that.

One thing that strikes me reading the vacuums numbers from others is that they have higher idle speed, will that affect vacuum readings along with timing? My idle is set to around 600-650rpm, others said they run between 750 and 850 rpm.

Sorry about the length of this one

Thank you all for your patience!!!
 
Can't recall what cam your running but some cams need higher idle speeds to keep from surging and bucking.
Check your vacuum at 800 rpms
If you have a lower intake gasket that is leaking at the bottom of the ports it will be hard to find, it's inside the lifter valley, that maybe why your seeing signs of 'blow by' in the lower runners, pulling oil from the lifter valley.
This also causes surging.
 
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Maybe a slipped lower intake gasket causing your low vacuum numbers.
Very possible....

Finding vacuum leaks

Revised 2 June 2017 to add picture of engine crankcase vent to throttle body

There is no easy way to find vacuum leaks. It is a time consuming job that requires close inspection of each and every hose and connection.

Small vacuum leaks may not show much change using a vacuum gauge. The range of "good readings" varies so much from engine to engine that it may be difficult to detect small leaks. The engine in my first Mustang pulled about 16.5" of vacuum at 650-725 RPM, which I consider rather low. It was a mass market remanufactured rebuild, so no telling what kind of camshaft it had. Average readings seem to run 16"-18" inches at idle and 18"-21" at 1000 RPM. The only sure comparison is a reading taken when your car was performing at its best through all the RPM ranges and what it is doing now. Use one of the spare ports on the vacuum tree that is mounted on the firewall near the windshield wiper motor.

Use a squirt can of motor oil to squirt around the mating surfaces of the manifold & TB. The oil will be sucked into the leaking area and the engine will change speed. Avoid using flammable substitutes for the oil such as starting fluid, propane or throttle body cleaner. Fire is an excellent hair removal agent, and no eyebrows is not cool...

After you have done the simple visual checks and the check for vacuum leak on the underside of the intake manifold, consider doing a smoke test.
Some of the guys here have built smoke machines used to find automotive vacuum leaks. They seem to work quite well and are made mostly with parts you would have laying around in your garage. Check out smoke machine vacuum leak - YouTube and see if there is one that you could build.

The vacuum line plumbing is old and brittle on many of these cars, so replacing the lines with new hose is a good plan. The common 1/8” and ¼” vacuum hose works well and isn’t expensive.

The PCV grommet and the power brake booster check valve grommet are two places that often get overlooked when checking for vacuum leaks. The rubber grommets get hard and lose their ability to seal properly. The PVC grommet is difficult to see if it is correctly seated and fitting snugly.

Fuel injector O rings can get old and hard. When they do, they are prone to leaking once the engine warms up. This can be difficult to troubleshoot, since it is almost impossible to get to the injectors to squirt oil into the fuel injector mounting bosses. If the plastic caps on the fuel injectors (pintle caps) are missing, the O rings will slide off the injectors and fall into the intake manifold.

Fuel injector seal kits with 2 O rings and a pintle cap (Borg-Warner P/N 274081) are available at Pep Boys auto parts. Cost is about $3-$4 per kit. The following are listed at the Borg-Warner site ( http://www.borg-warner.com ) as being resellers of Borg-Warner parts:
http://www.partsplus.com/ or http://www.autovalue.com/ or http://www.pepboys.com/ or http://www.federatedautoparts.com/

Most of the links above have store locators for find a store in your area.

Use motor oil on the O rings when you re-assemble them & everything will slide into place. The gasoline will wash away any excess oil that gets in the wrong places and it will burn up in the combustion chamber. Heat the pintle caps in boiling water to soften them to make them easier to install.



Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds
mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg



Vacuum leak due to slipped lower intake manifold gasket...

Ask Nicoleb3x3 about the intake gasket that slipped out of place and caused idle and vacuum leak problems that could not be seen or found by external examination. I don't care what you spray with, you won't find the leak when it is sucking air from the lifter valley. It simply isn't possible to spray anything in there with the lower manifold bolted in place.

photodisplay.php




Determining if you have a leak due to a slipped intake gasket as shown above. This test is only good if you can get the engine to run somewhere in the 1000-1700 RPM range
If your valve cover oil filler & PVC systems are still in the original configuration, try this:
Cap or plug the hose from the intake manifold to the PVC valve with a bolt.
Cap or plug the PVC valve with a piece of hose with a plug or bolt in it.
At that point the only vent for the crankcase is the tube from the oil filler neck to the throttle body.

Disconnect the tube that runs from the oil filler neck to the throttle body. Make sure the oil filler cap is on securely. Start the engine and put your thumb over the end of the tube that comes from the oil filler cap. If you feel suction, there is a leak. Another thing to do is to extend the tubing from the filler neck so that there is enough to stick the end in a jar or cup filled with motor oil. If it sucks up the oil, you definitely have a leak at the underside of intake manifold.

This isn't necessarily the definitive test, but it is the best thing I could come up with on short notice. If there is a lot of blowby, this obviously won't be of much help.

See the picture below to see the breather tube where in connects to the throttle body. It is close to the TPS and runs over the top of the IAC.

The following are diagrams courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

TPS_IAB_Pic.jpg


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif

TFI module differences & pinout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif

Fuse box layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif
 
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Thank you all for your suggestions:

I have a TFS stage 1 cam.
Although it could be a slipped lower intake gasket I ran very much all the tests cited on jrichker sharing and I was hesitant to remove the lower but I guess that will be thing to do. If there is a vacuum leak it will be at the intake and it must be the in the lifter galley because I isolated all the hoses coming out of the intake and the low vac numbers persist.

So, I have no choice but tackle that project and I'll report any findings.

Thank you all again for your comments and suggestions!!!
 
Morning all!
Well I just removed my lower and to my deception the gaskets seem to be intact and good seal around the ports. There is a normal light etching around the water ports but no indication of vacuum leaks as Far as I can observe.

Here are photos of the gaskets, please share any thoughts.

Thank you all

IMG_1087.JPG IMG_1086.JPG
 
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Photo #2 shows one of the edges of the port messed up on the bottom gasket, far RH side. If it looked like that when you took the lower intake manifold, it is suspect.
 
I think some of the damage on the gasket s happened at disassembling I noticed a missing portions of printoseal on two ports but they were stuck on the manifold.
I definitely see some shifting that happened while torquing the lower. That's one of the things I hate about those angled fasteners, always tend to slide the gaskets down. I have no idea how to prevent this from happening. If any of you have a technique that works better please share.

I thought I had a set of 1250's.... But I was wrong!!!! Now I have to order them from Summit, I just hate the regular 1250's as they just tear apart and basically dissolve at the contact with the water, never had luck with them that's why I use the S3's

Thank you guys and if you have any other thoughts please feel free to share them.:nice:
 
Here I'm thinking and writing while trying to make some sense:
The sliding of the gaskets happens downwards so if a bad vacuum leak happens that would be at the top of the ports not by the lifters galley, but like I said I sprayed carb cleaner all around the lower intake and no leaks were found so I'm confused about this. Any how the things is open and have to keep trying if new gaskets don't make a difference on the low vac numbers.

Thank you all!!!
 
Here I'm thinking and writing while trying to make some sense:
The sliding of the gaskets happens downwards so if a bad vacuum leak happens that would be at the top of the ports not by the lifters galley, but like I said I sprayed carb cleaner all around the lower intake and no leaks were found so I'm confused about this. Any how the things is open and have to keep trying if new gaskets don't make a difference on the low vac numbers.

Thank you all!!!
My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface. Also use the weather strip adhesive on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. When you are done, the head surface and the gasket surface that mate together will have weather strip adhesive on them. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the head.

Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.

Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. Bingo! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.
 
Also, grab some bolts slightly longer than your intake bolts and cut the heads off. Put 2-4 in, and use them as guides to drop the intake down. Then remove and install the bolts
 
You're right, guides are a must to avoid guessing the right position. Since I'm using ARP lower intake studs they are long enough to serve as guides. Right now I'm doing a thoroughly clean up on all the mating surfaces and have the lower with no sensors crossover and injector to clean it really good for reassembly.

Thanks guys!
 
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