failed emiss. To Much Fuel?

At our emissions station they will check which tail pipe you chose, so i took a couple of pieces of course steel wool, wrapped in a tight ball with come copper wire around it with a loop(to get back out) and shoved it in the tailpipe(as far back as i could). It barely had any exaust coming out. It worked . The crossover tube allowed the extra exhaust excape the other side. Not the proper way to fix the problem but it worked. I dont have any emissions equipment on the car. What were your scores?

When they tested my car last time, they plugged one tail pipe, and tested the other where all the exhuast was coming out from. I still passed, but the engine was still pretty stock, not like it is now......I can't drive until I get a sticker, which I hope to do this week. I too hate the testing, but it's gotta be done.

If you're mechanically inclined, remove the injectors and take them to a parts store that has a cleaner/tester and have them worked over. Get your cats hooked up CORRECTLY. Are your emissions lanes paid for by the state or do you have to pay each time you get your car checked. If paid for by the state and you still don't pass, let me know. I have one other trick for SD cars (it's an experiment actually) that you can try but I don't want to put it here and have it end up costing you money if you have to pay for the smog check.

Edit: and BTW... Jrickter has a test checklist that you can perform on the car to identify poor injectors. If he doesn't see this and post it for you then send him a PM for it. I haven't tried it and don't know if it's the same for SD cars but if it is, it may save you some time/money.

19#

no need to get 24lb injector they arnt gonna do you any good performance wise and are a waste of money..................you fuel rate is still regulated by the non-adjustable FPR so get a adjustable one and 24lbs injectors then you will see a diff and no bigger injectors wont cause you to fail emissions.

here's the path to fixing your smog problems...

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Repost the codes & you'll get some help tracing & fixing the problems

Replace the cat pipe if it's a MAC - they won't pass Cali smog tests. If it is some other brand and hasn't been filled with sludge from running with no smog pump, fix the smog pump & run it through the test again.

i live in cali and part of the smog test is checking your timing.

if you can...(you can't in cali)

drop your timing to about 2*
this makes a HUGE difference

and make sure it's super HOT when it tests.

use premium fuel..and octane booster as well.

i almost passed a '89 notch in cali w/ no smog pump and long tubes.