Build Thread Finally! 89 Notch 2v Swap Progress Thread Project: 89mach1

90stang5speed said:

I like things plain but, I think the stripes are going to look really good if you keep the sides & spoiler stripes. Just the spoiler stripe by its self probably wouldn't look as good. The car is looking bad a** though Mike. keep up the good work & pics.

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Thanks.
It was always intended that there be all three stripes (both sides and the spoiler) I can't even imagine the car w/o them. It's just that I figured that as big as a 69 is, and the fact that I had to narrow all the 68 stuff to fit the car, that it just made sense that the stripes would be way to wide as well. Wrongo.

The 69 has big wide quarters and a little narrow trunk, so the stripe by itself isn't long enough. Butting the sections together might not be the solution as I was told that there'd be some degree of shrinkage, and the only solution would be to overlap the stripes 1/8th". Personally, I think that that'll look like ass, but dude said I'd be the only one that notices it.

(well, me and just about everyone else that looks at it)

Now, coming up from the garage for a break, the damn side stripe is too short on the door. (evidently, fox doors are longer than 69 doors). I'm gonna have to splice that stupid thing too.

Well, stripe #2 is now in the garbage. This time it was one of the side stripes. Not only do I have to cut and add to the door stripe, but the entire stripe gets bigger as it goes down the side. It gains almost 3/4" in width by the time it gets to the rear bumper.

So, consequently, using the top stripe as a reference for level down the body line ends up w/ a big-assed mismatch by the time it gets to the front of the rear tire.

I followed all of the damn instructions, used tape w/ marks for reference, applied it wet, using only a tablespoon of Dawn Ultra (original scent) mixed w/ a gallon of water as a "wetting solution, mocked it up dry, and still screwed it up. By the time I squeegeed all of the water out from under the stripe, you could see the front was going down hill.

I don't know if any of you saw "I am Legend", but when the head Mutant opens his mouth and screams,.........???

Thats what I did, as soon as I saw the front stripe going one way and the rest going the other.

(maybe some of you heard me).

I used to scoff at how poorly alot of the mach 1 stripes were applied from the factory. Not anymore,....It takes some kind of skill I must lack.

I said on a different thread I was far from stupid.
I was wrong.

140.00 down the drain.

Things MUST happen for a reason.

I think the car is talking to me.

After installing the rear stripe (the first one I screwed up) I was kind of thinking that the gold color was wrong, but I went ahead and "stuck it".

The car promptly rejected the stripe.
(actually, I screwed it up, but for the sake of my story let's just say the "car" did it)

I ignored the voice in my head, and ordered the replacement trunk stripe, and set about buffing the roof and drivers' side so that I could install the side stripe. Again, I was struck w/ the feeling that a gold reflective stripe w/ a white center was the wrong color for the car, but I went ahead and attempted the install anyway.

The car promptly rejected that stripe.

So, faced w/ the fact that I now have to order the entire kit as a replacement, (because they won't sell you just the side stripes) I finally wise up and order the kit that is black reflective w/ a gold center stripe.

That car better STFU and stop talking to me after this.

TenorPlayinGuy said:

Same! Only alternative, would be to have them either custom made at a graphics place. OR have it custom painted on. Either one would run you less than you've spent so far on buying what...3 sets now?

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Let's not get carried away. I said I was stupid, but I can still tie my shoe.

The original set had two side stripes, and one rear deck stripe. It cost 140.00

I ruined the rear deck stripe right away. (you can replace it ala carte) so I ordered another.

I ruined the drivers' side side stripe two days later. ( forcing me to buy a whole set as the side stripes are sold only in kit form.

So bottom line, I'm sending the rear stripe back because I don't need it, and it is now the wrong color.

I ordered the black stripe kit today.

When we do our math, I'm only working on set #2.

I have brakes!

Far from the most glamorous of the pictures I've posted, but relevant nonetheless.

All week long it's been one obstacle or another, screwing up this, scratching that (yes, I said scratch) and running all over the place chasing down the little doodads that are required to finish this thing up.

The tail lights are wired. Since the fox uses two bulbs for stop/run lights, and turn signals, I had to drill a second hole in the tail light housing to accommodate the second T/S bulb. The fuel tank filler neck and vent tube is finished.

The whole roof and drivers' side is buffed. I learned the hard way that sanding w/ 1000, then followed by 1500, then 2000, then 2500, can just be jumped to 2000 then 2500. The first panel I buffed after only using 1000 took an hour to get rid of the 1000 grit sand scratches. It looks pretty good. I'll tell you right now, It's only a good street car paint job. There is still a bunch of imbedded trash in it that will never make for an "under lights" show car. Don't get me wrong, It looks like red plastic.
Very very shiny red plastic, but, it is what it is.

The brakes. These are the same brakes that were installed last year before I ever touched the rear or the nose of the car.

They are the same brakes that I neglected to fill and almost ran the car off into our pool when I realized that the reservoir was empty coming down the hill of my driveway (my very first stupid story)

I am here to tell you that running manual brakes will not be a problem on this car. I spent the time to do it right, The pedal is very firm w/ only about 1/2" of free travel and from there, It's on like a chicken bone!

I started with the pedal ratio:

Stock mustangs w/power brakes come w/a 2.75:1 pedal pivot ratio. The "ideal" manual pedal ratio is 6:1. The first thing I did was change that pivot point, (which raises the hole the M/C pushrod intersects with up a little over 2 inches) to create my 6:1 ratio.

Raising the intersect point also kinda requires that you raise the M/C to keep the pushrod in it's proper swing arc and plane. I did that.

I contacted Wilwood and bought their dual 7/8" bore M/C, a manual proportioning valve, and a 10lb residual valve to keep minimal pressure to the rear brakes so that the pedal feels instant (minus 1/2" travel)

Plumbing the whole thing was the challenge. Depending on your perspective, you'll either like it or you'll hate it, but I did it for Mike, and he's happy w/ how it's ran so........

Originally two places developed leaks. In the worst possible places. I think I finally got the lines tight enough to stop it. We'll see.

The engine compartment is filthy, I know. Right now I'm just happy I made some forward progress.

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I know they are still only 4 cyl brakes and rotors, but after I get it running, all new aftermarket A/C will be the next expenditure.

Then, I'm gonna have Aerospace build me a 12-13" rotor setup that will allow me to use the 4 lug wheels I own and want to keep.

90stang5speed said:

good to read about the progress. It looks like there would not have been room for the booster with the 4.6 in there. I was thinking of going to manual brakes too so, it was good to read about how you did it. I know you said you raised the M/C up some. Do you have any pics with the M/C off to show the old & new mounting location? Could you post part#'s of the valves? What did you do for the pedal push rod? did you just cut it shorter or order one for some year car with manual brakes? Im asking because I dont know much about that part of the brake system. My plan is to use 86 turbo mustang front calipers, pads & M/C with 95 rear disc set up so, I'm trying to put together a parts list & other info in hopes of getting things right the first time for a change.

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Answered in order of your questions::

No I don't have "before and after" pics of the M/C mounting position.

Sorry IDK the part #s of the residual or proportioning valve (nothing special though,..get a Jegs catalog, they'll be the same PN's)

The pushrod came with the M/C. Threaded on on end, there is a rod end on the end bolted to the brake pedal.

Pm me and I'll help you find the correct stuff. It'll be the same stuff on my car.

Bettyslover said:

Awesome build I love it.without the front it wouldn't be right but you nailed it.

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Thanks.

You're right. After starting on the rear, I kind of forced myself to do something for the front.

Sorry, the stuff I'm doing now most would find too ordinary to even care to look at.

Today, I hacked up the "bent" lower radiator saddle and lowered the top of it to accommodate the 3/4" taller aluminum radiator.

I decided to have the stripes custom made. That proved harder than I thought it would be. I had to go to four different shops before I finally got somebody that didn't rattle off trade mark infringement concerns and send me out the door.

While I can understand Ford being entitled to the design rights of the stripe, I think it's crap that I had to "pull teeth" before I could get anybody to make a copy for me. Like anybody has to worry about a "Stripe Nazi" busting them for making a copy of a 69 mustang stripe that's gonna end up on another mustang. The 69 stripe just wouldn't work. It was too short on the door, and across the trunk. Additionally, it "grew" in height from front to back. Wrong, wrong, wrong.

I changed up what Ford did anyway, and had them cut out the "mach 1" portion and the center of the stripe so that body color shows through the reflective black. I also went w/ a "70 style" trunk deck rear stripe as opposed to the 1969 stripe.

I installed the Steeda alum clutch quadrant. Getting that stupid little adjuster cam off the big stud proved to be a pain in the ass, as the spring that was attached to it just wouldn't let it go.
(I figured everybody has seen a clutch quad so, "No pics " here as well.)

The headers I made put the #5 tube too close to the oil filter, and the lower radiator hose. So I relocated the oil filter under the drivers' fender. The lower radiator hose will be "re-directed" to put the rubber as far away from the header tube as possible.

Even though I said I was done w/ the tail light wiring, I still was wiring today, and I still have yet to install the separate bulbs for the T/S's.

I still have to weld up and install the roll bar, and the 4 pt harness's. Cover the floor in sound deadener. Sand and buff the passenger side of the car

So that about wraps it. I get the stripes Thursday, and promptly have to leave to go to the beach for the weekend. woo hoo!
It should start to look like the car I want next week.