I have brakes!
Far from the most glamorous of the pictures I've posted, but relevant nonetheless.
All week long it's been one obstacle or another, screwing up this, scratching that (yes, I said scratch) and running all over the place chasing down the little doodads that are required to finish this thing up.
The tail lights are wired. Since the fox uses two bulbs for stop/run lights, and turn signals, I had to drill a second hole in the tail light housing to accommodate the second T/S bulb. The fuel tank filler neck and vent tube is finished.
The whole roof and drivers' side is buffed. I learned the hard way that sanding w/ 1000, then followed by 1500, then 2000, then 2500, can just be jumped to 2000 then 2500. The first panel I buffed after only using 1000 took an hour to get rid of the 1000 grit sand scratches. It looks pretty good. I'll tell you right now, It's only a good street car paint job. There is still a bunch of imbedded trash in it that will never make for an "under lights" show car. Don't get me wrong, It looks like red plastic.
Very very shiny red plastic, but, it is what it is.
The brakes. These are the same brakes that were installed last year before I ever touched the rear or the nose of the car.
They are the same brakes that I neglected to fill and almost ran the car off into our pool when I realized that the reservoir was empty coming down the hill of my driveway (my very first stupid story)
I am here to tell you that running manual brakes will not be a problem on this car. I spent the time to do it right, The pedal is very firm w/ only about 1/2" of free travel and from there, It's on like a chicken bone!
I started with the pedal ratio:
Stock mustangs w/power brakes come w/a 2.75:1 pedal pivot ratio. The "ideal" manual pedal ratio is 6:1. The first thing I did was change that pivot point, (which raises the hole the M/C pushrod intersects with up a little over 2 inches) to create my 6:1 ratio.
Raising the intersect point also kinda requires that you raise the M/C to keep the pushrod in it's proper swing arc and plane. I did that.
I contacted Wilwood and bought their dual 7/8" bore M/C, a manual proportioning valve, and a 10lb residual valve to keep minimal pressure to the rear brakes so that the pedal feels instant (minus 1/2" travel)
Plumbing the whole thing was the challenge. Depending on your perspective, you'll either like it or you'll hate it, but I did it for Mike, and he's happy w/ how it's ran so........
Originally two places developed leaks. In the worst possible places. I think I finally got the lines tight enough to stop it. We'll see.
The engine compartment is filthy, I know. Right now I'm just happy I made some forward progress.
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I know they are still only 4 cyl brakes and rotors, but after I get it running, all new aftermarket A/C will be the next expenditure.
Then, I'm gonna have Aerospace build me a 12-13" rotor setup that will allow me to use the 4 lug wheels I own and want to keep.