I went ahead and ordered the one from LMR as well, despite it not having the o ring. The shipping cost for the MM plug was $24 (cheapest option) and I couldn't find anything else on their site that I desperately need right now.
I went ahead and ordered the one from LMR as well, despite it not having the o ring. The shipping cost for the MM plug was $24 (cheapest option) and I couldn't find anything else on their site that I desperately need right now.In order to use the factory plug you'd have to drill and tap the end, where the rubber grommet is, and install a plug. A 3/8 pipe thread tap and 3/8 plug works well for that. It looks ugly though...and as cheap as the aftermarket plug is...its worth it not to have the hassle. I bough mine from LMR. It didn't come with a new o ring so I used my old one. It goes at the end of the threads by the top of the cap.
When I was researching springs, I watched one the LMR videos on installing springs. The comments took me in the direction of some random threads, including on SN, and it was one of the few times I’m glad I read comments. Definitely seems more challenging than LMR makes it out to be.Shocker! They always make it look easy.
I am planning to try and make some progress on the brake master cylinder swap this week. I've been looking through this article: https://lmr.com/products/Fox-Body-Mustang-Disc-Brake-Conversion-Installation-SVE-5-Lug-Kit and there's MC install instructions (about 3/4 of the way down). It doesn't say anything about removing or draining brake fluid from the MC reservoir before removing the MC...it just says to put paper towels or rags in the area below because fluid will leak. I'm wondering if this was maybe just an oversight and it does make sense to try and remove as much fluid as possible before pulling the MC out. Any thoughts from folks who have done this swap before?
Thanks
Awesome. Thanks!I recently did a MC swap in my truck. I just disconnected the bolts, unhooked the lines and took it out. The rags and towels are for the drips that will ruin your paint if you get it on it.
Bench bled my new one, and reversed the process.
Then of course bled the brakes once all was reconnected.
So true, lolAny time LMR uses the word "simply" in a video you know you are in trouble.
LMR: "simply remove your guage cluster, steering column, dash and heater box and the heater core is easily accessible" .......
Very helpful, thanks!The brake fluid won’t pour out. It might drip out a little bit but it should stay in the reseviour.
when I bought my hydroboost setup they shipped the Mc full of fluid and disconnected. Tiny bit of seepage out
Awesome. Thanks!
So true, lol
Very helpful, thanks!
I removed the hood to replace the hood hinge cups and to install the hood firewall seal, but it seems this will make the brake MC installation a bit easier as well.
Passenger side is quite rusted...so I’m glad I decided to replace these.
Driver side isn’t as bad but still needs some work.
I also ordered valve cover gaskets so I’m planning to do those and also clean up and paint the valve covers and intake manifold while I have them off.
Right? I was thinking the same thing....I need to look back through my pictures and see if the seal was significantly worse on one side because the rust is definitely a lot worse on the passenger side.Wow..... I guess that rust on the hinge cups was a product of the bad hood seal. Havnt really heard of that being a typical rust spot.
Every fox body car I've owned has had ( including the current one) significant rust issues in those areas.Right? I was thinking the same thing....I need to look back through my pictures and see if the seal was significantly worse on one side because the rust is definitely a lot worse on the passenger side.
I did a little bit of drill brushing last night. This is the passenger side.
Before:
After:
Still gotta do some more work. I'm hoping the small can of POR-15 I got recently will be enough to cover both this and the shock tower but I guess we'll see...
Thanks for more confirmation that my fox is not unique or specialEvery fox body car I've owned has had ( including the current one) significant rust issues in those areas.
I needed a 14mm mid-length socket. None available locally; bought a 1/4 in drive deep well & had a friend mill it down. Then used a wobble extension on the modified socket.I made a brief attempt at getting the MC out last night but I wasn't able to get the nut off on the side closer to the fender. Any tips on getting that one out without breaking something or lighting the engine bay on fire?
Thanks. I need to get some wobble extensions...been meaning to pick some of those up for a while.I needed a 14mm mid-length socket. None available locally; bought a 1/4 in drive deep well & had a friend mill it down. Then used a wobble extension on the modified socket.
Is it because the nut will not turn, or you can’t get a wrench on it? Or both?
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