Progress Thread Finally got my first Fox Body - 1988 GT

DudeStang · Aug 7, 2020

I made a video documenting the recent mistakes/foolish assumptions I made, while I patiently wait for the brake lines that Mustang5L5 sent to arrive.

View: https://youtu.be/2A9dyVR9UuQ

I am also still waiting for my Koni shocks to arrive. In the meanwhile, I am searching for (and saving for) a second set of wheels and tires in the hopes that I can get to at least one track day or autocross event before winter time.

Mustang5L5 · Aug 7, 2020

I believe those lines are arriving today.

I should have cleaned them up for you before I sent it. A little scotch brite on the lines should clean them up nicely. I was just more concerned with sending them out to you ASAP.

DudeStang · Aug 7, 2020

Mustang5L5 said:
I believe those lines are arriving today.

I should have cleaned them up for you before I sent it. A little scotch brite on the lines should clean them up nicely. I was just more concerned with sending them out to you ASAP.

No worries. I am just happy that you had them at all and were willing to send them my way.

I see what you meant about one of the fittings being tight. I just took a quick look before eating my lunch but it seems they will fit. I probably just need to loosen the PV mounting bracket nut to have more flexibility getting that line into the PV. Thanks again!

Mustang5L5 · Aug 7, 2020

Maybe if you soak it in penetrating fluid overnight, and gentyly work it it might come loose. Maybe a little heat would help too?

Or just thread that one in first, and then you should be able to get the others on there.

DudeStang · Aug 7, 2020

Mustang5L5 said:
Maybe if you soak it in penetrating fluid overnight, and gentyly work it it might come loose. Maybe a little heat would help too?

Or just thread that one in first, and then you should be able to get the others on there.

I might try the penetrating fluid. I tried to thread the tight fitting in on the PV but because of the shape of the line and the PV bracket being secured, I couldn't turn the line at all to get past the first thread.

Mustang5L5 · Aug 7, 2020

Just unbolt it from the fender and pull it slightly out, should give you enough clearance. But try it overnight in some fluid and see if it loosens it up.

Steel1 · Aug 7, 2020

DudeStang said:
I might try the penetrating fluid. I tried to thread the tight fitting in on the PV but because of the shape of the line and the PV bracket being secured, I couldn't turn the line at all to get past the first thread.

Are you using flare wrenches on these brake line fittings ?
If you don't have any you should get some, even a cheap Harbor Freight set would be ok.
Sucks when you strip a flare fitting, especially these bleeders that haven't been cracked in years.

General karthief · Aug 7, 2020

Don't be afraid to adjust (bend) those lines a little so they go straight in the block. Kinda push the line all the way into the block when you start threading in the fitting, maybe start the lines (loosely) in the block on the bench, bolt the block to the frame rail then start the lines in the master cylinder, then tighten them up.

DudeStang · Aug 9, 2020

Ok so I did the bench bleeding (correctly I believe), but it took a while because I had a little bit of a leak in one of the plastic pieces on the front port and didn’t notice it at first.

I tightened the plastic piece a bit more and it stopped leaking fluid, then I pumped it another 10 times or so and stopped seeing bubbles come up. Unfortunately, when I moved the MC to put it on the brake booster, it took me FOREVER to thread the rear port brake line into the MC. The front one went in fairly quickly.

I’m assuming the long time it took for me to hook up the rear port line let some more air back in the system. Do I need to redo the bench bleeding or will I be able to fix this when I actually bleed the brakes?

General karthief · Aug 9, 2020

Did fluid drip out while you were fiddling with it?
Should not be an issue if you uncapped one line, installed the line then uncapped the other and installed the line.

DudeStang · Aug 9, 2020

General karthief said:
Did fluid drip out while you were fiddling with it?
Should not be an issue if you uncapped one line, installed the line then uncapped the other and installed the line.

I put vacuum caps on both ports to move the MC to the car after bench bleeding. I left the vacuum cap on the front while I fought with the rear line...then gave up on the rear for a bit and focused on the front, but I forgot to put the vacuum cap back on the rear. A little bit of fluid did drop out.

Mustang5L5 · Aug 9, 2020

Your fine. Bleed the rest of the system and then pump the pedal with the engine off. Should be hard as a rock.

if there is a little air, one way to “cheat” is to Jack the rear of the car up high enough that the MC is level and then bleed the brakes. This is an alternative to bench bleeding as it’s the angle of the MC that tends to trap air in the front of it.

DudeStang · Aug 9, 2020

I just got done bleeding the brakes, but apparently I did something wrong along the way. I have very little pedal resistance.

I’m exhausted and calling it a night but will try to figure out where I went wrong sometime this week after normal work hours.

Rdub6 · Aug 9, 2020

DudeStang said:
I just got done bleeding the brakes, but apparently I did something wrong along the way. I have very little pedal resistance.

I’m exhausted and calling it a night but will try to figure out where I went wrong sometime this week after normal work hours.

Good move! Sometimes a good nights sleep and a fresh head is the perfect solution!

Steel1 · Aug 9, 2020

The last two times I've bled brakes I used my friends power bleeder, that thing is sweet.
Select correct cap for m/c, put some fluid in the bleeder pump up to recommended air pressure and start cracking bleeders.
It forces fluid through the system under pressure.

Mustang5L5 · Aug 9, 2020

When you bench bled the MC, was it perfectly level?

here’s how I typically did mine.

I then hold the nose up against the wall, hold the MC perfectly level and push with screwdriver. Few time until no more bubbles. I then install the MC like this, and the remove the lines one at a time and install the vehicle brake lines.

if you don’t want to pull it apart, Jack the rear of the car up high enough to level the master cylinder. Needs to be completely level across, then bleed the brakes normally.

Brake bleed order is rear first, then pass front, then drivers front last

DudeStang · Aug 10, 2020

For the bench bleed - I had the MC in my bench vise. I think it was pretty even. I had a pretty sturdy piece corner shaped piece of cardboard to give it a little more support on the front end. I didn't take any pics but here's a screenshot from recording for my next video.

I did the bench bleeding as described by folks in this thread and according to a few videos I watched (seemed to be pretty much the same process described in the few resources I pulled together/read/watched.

After installing the master cylinder, I had my wife help with the brake bleeding. I put together a drain container using a plastic fuel line and plastic bottle. I started with rear passenger side, had my wife press pedal three times, then push all the way down and then I loosened the bleeder screw, closed it, and checked the MC fluid level each time. My wife said that each time the pedal was giving more resistance.

Later last night after talking to my wife, here's one possible explanation - she said that when we were doing the front brakes, she felt the pedal go down further when I opened the bleeder screw the first time but she said she didn't remember that happening on the rear brakes. I am thinking that maybe I didn't leave the bleeder screw open as long on the first cycle on the rear brakes so maybe I will try to bleed the rear brakes again tonight and see if that fixes it, unless anyone has any other more plausible theories or suggestions.

Another concern I have - the brake lines that run from the MC to the proportioning valve, on the PV end, there is a little bit of fluid showing so it seems they aren’t screwed down/tight enough. I used flare wrenches but they could only get them so far in and I don't want to strip or break anything.

Mustang5L5 · Aug 10, 2020

Yeah, I think you need to go a little tighter.

I bleed my brakes a little bit differently than everyone else. I have the motive pressure bleeder, but to be honest I don't like using it.

Here's how I bleed my brakes. Get a little hose and bottle and connect to the bleeder. Crack the bleeder open enough so that fluid will come out. In the driver's seat, start pumping away. Pump to about 75-80% of full travel, lift and repeat. Leave the bleeder open the entire time and watch the flow. It should come out pretty well. Do it until no air blubbles are seen and clear fluid starts coming out. Close the bleeder, wipe it all down with a new wet rag, and move on to the next wheel

Also IMPORTANT. You need to adjust the adjustable prop valve on the firewall to full open. Screwing the valve in increased pressure to the rear brakes. Screwing it out (counter-clockwise) decreased pressure. You need to bleed the brakes with the valve fully screwed in. Mark a line on the handle and turn the valve fully in counting the number of turns until it stops. Write that down. Now bleed the brakes, and then when all done and you are confident of the pedal, unscrew the valve back to where you were previously.

Also, let us know what that number is? WHo knows if the original owner set it right. My brake setup is totally different, but mine is only set to 2 to 3 turns out from full in.

You're getting there. Keep plugging away

Steel1 · Aug 10, 2020

Mustang5L5 said:
I have the motive pressure bleeder, but to be honest I don't like using it

Just curious as to why ?
I guess for non ABS ( like foxbodys ) it may be overkill but makes bleeding lines and m/c an easy 1 person job.
For ABS cars it can prevent a lot of headaches with air getting trapped in the ABS module.

Mustang5L5 · Aug 10, 2020

Steel1 said:
Just curious as to why ?
I guess for non ABS ( like foxbodys ) it may be overkill but makes bleeding lines and m/c an easy 1 person job.
For ABS cars it can prevent a lot of headaches with air getting trapped in the ABS module.

I don’t think it’s aggressive enough when using for new caliper replacement. ive used it on the mustang and my DDs and find if I replace a caliper it doesn’t always get out all the air. I typically have to use it for fluid changes only.

even when I do fluid changes, I find it quicker to just do my method above with one person. I can get an awesome spray going pumping my foot. I find it’s quicker to setup, moves more fluid, and just simple.

Progress Thread Finally got my first Fox Body - 1988 GT

Nuts fell off while driving

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Nuts fell off while driving

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Nuts fell off while driving

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Mustang Master

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

Nuts fell off while driving

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

Nuts fell off while driving

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Nuts fell off while driving

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues

Mustang Master

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Nuts fell off while driving

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Mustang Master

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

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