Finally got some CLEAN runs in at the track!

NIKwoaC

中國製造
15 Year Member
Oct 31, 2006
5,500
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Chengdu Province
As some of you guys know, ever since I finished my "big head/small engine" build, my car was plagued with some clutch cable issues, along with a few other small issues that I had to resolve. I had kind of been procrastinating working on it and all summer and just enjoying driving it, but last weekend I finally spent some time wrenching on it, and last night I had it on the track. Results below. Keep in mind, this is a full weight car, granny shifting on 17" street tires.

Run 1:
(3rd gear took me a couple tries... Someday I'll figure out this "driving" thing!)
60'--2.165
1/8--8.926
1/4--13.613 @ 106.45

Run 2:
(Totally walked a C5 'Vette on this run. Damn, that was satisfying.)
60'--2.206
1/8--8.751
1/4--13.336 @ 108.22

Run 3:
60'--2.209
1/8--8.750
1/4--13.307 @ 108.77

Run 4:
(Best run, and last run before they closed the track.)
60'--2.105
1/8--8.581
1/4--13.107 @ 109.33


So, I'm really confident the thing has 12s in it, as it sits, with just a little better driving. I think there is a LOT to be had in just tweaking the car itself, without touching the motor. Tune, raise the limiter so I can shift at 63-6500, 15" stickies and skinnies, and a few other things and I think this car will be much, much faster.

What say you?
 
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Nic, nice runs, almost 110MPH on 17" street tires...that's sweet. Your car will run 12.80's with a 1.8 60 foot time, maybe less. Maybe when it gets cooler could be a mid 12 run. You have the MPH to back that up.
 
That car has 12.50s in it all day. The MPH is reall promising, congrats. What does the car weigh? It is definitley making power. Needs some 26x10s and powershifting! I just plugged it into a calculator, 109mph at 3300 lbs(with driver) is about 350 HP, very nice for a 302 that has great manners.
 
Yea, the MPH is what has me really stoked. It just kept climbing with each run as I dialed in my shifting. I'm shifting at 6100ish, just trying to avoid the factory limiter. It wants to go WAY beyond that.

If I had to guess, the car is around 3300lbs with me in it. Before I put those heavy-ass 17s and Cobra brakes on it, It was a confirmed 3090 with absolutely nothing in the car, no spare tire or jack, and almost zero gas. I may have even taken the T-tops out of the car when I weighed it then, I can't remember. The Mach 1 wheels alone were 8-10lbs heavier a piece than the 10-holes, let alone the wider tires and Cobra brakes.

Really tempted to sell off my Cobra brakes this winter and "downgrade" to GT brakes, and pick up a set of 15" Welds or Billet Specialties...
 
Nik, you can make the cobra brakes work with 15x8 draglites, just get to work with the angle grinder. I still say you should drop some cash on megasquirt. I bought the full version software recently and the car is running better than it ever has. The car can tune itself
 
Nik, you can make the cobra brakes work with 15x8 draglites, just get to work with the angle grinder. I still say you should drop some cash on megasquirt. I bought the full version software recently and the car is running better than it ever has. The car can tune itself

Hmmm... I've seen that some guys have had success fitting 15X8s with some grinding. I'm just curious, how much time do you think I could drop by going with lighter GT brakes? Those Cobra rotors are HEAVY.

I'm interested in the MS, but at this point I'm only a couple hundred bucks away from full datalogging and tunability with a Quarterhorse...
 
Nice runs!!! Explain to me tho im full weight 3778 lbs convertible AOD and my 1/8 was 8.5 and i went 1 time before i got kicked off the track 13.3 @ 103 mph... I went an 1.88 60ft..I should have had mph on top..Im sure i can go 12's easy...I do know tho i run meth injection im thinking i was flooding on top end spraying a little to much thats why My mph was lower then your ET's...Im going back soon to a different track with some adjustments i made,i hope i can get into the 12's....
 
I have no idea on the weight thing, i switched to GT brakes cause i couldnt make the cobra stuff work with the 15x10, on my car, i noticed no braking difference. If you are set on a 15x10, switch the brakes, but if you are gonna run a 15x8 id just grind them, i dont think its worth ditching the cobra brakes in search of faster ET's

How much is the quarterhorse? FWIW, MS does datalogging and is a full standalone, with the ability to upgrade to sequentail FI and coilpacks.
 
I dunno man, my ported C90E/X303 combo went 12.8 @107mph with traction issues...i'm still skeptical about the small cam/big head theory but i guess the emphasis is more on all around power and street manors than ET. Granted my car is also probably a little lighter than yours. I really think i had mid-low 12s in that combo with good traction...i was going 1.9x 60s. Still if you got your 60s down to 1.9 you would probably be around 12.8 like i was.
 
I have no idea on the weight thing, i switched to GT brakes cause i couldnt make the cobra stuff work with the 15x10, on my car, i noticed no braking difference. If you are set on a 15x10, switch the brakes, but if you are gonna run a 15x8 id just grind them, i dont think its worth ditching the cobra brakes in search of faster ET's

How much is the quarterhorse? FWIW, MS does datalogging and is a full standalone, with the ability to upgrade to sequentail FI and coilpacks.

$250, I think...?

If I can make the Cobra brakes work, I may just stick with them.

What about a 15x9 w/5.5 BS? It looks like the 5.5 BS can work with the Cobras in the rear. Weld offers a Prostar in that size.

If I pick up some 15" wheels, it'll be one of the following:

Billet Specialties Street Lite
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Weld Prostar
wld-96-57026.jpg


Weld RT-S (really like these)
WLD-71LP-508A35A.jpg
 

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I dunno man, my ported C90E/X303 combo went 12.8 @107mph with traction issues...i'm still skeptical about the small cam/big head theory but i guess the emphasis is more on all around power and street manors than ET. Granted my car is also probably a little lighter than yours. I really think i had mid-low 12s in that combo with good traction...i was going 1.9x 60s. Still if you got your 60s down to 1.9 you would probably be around 12.8 like i was.

This was my first (mechanically) successful trip to the track ever with the new engine, and it ran 2 mph faster than your car, which you admit is probably lighter. This car is happy chugging along at 1500 RPM (I've had it down to 900 RPM on a couple occasions without bucking, but it's hit-or-miss at that point). It's completely un-tuned, hell it has stock fuel pressure and I blindly set the initial timing to 14 advanced when I first fired the engine and have not touched it since.

I would say the big head/ small cam thing is not-"not working". :shrug: The goal wasn't to set the world on fire, but just to prove that "big" heads can work on a small engine, with the benefit of achieving the same performance of a small head/ big cam setup with better drivability and with more room for growth.

oh and get some mickey drag radials for your 17's, they are awesome, no need for slicks and an extra set of rims.

I've considered that, but I've been looking for an excuse to buy a mean-ass looking set of 15" drag wheels, haha.
 
I really like those weld RT's, and i think they would look good on your car. IMO, if you are going to spend the money on a dedicated track tire, the slick is the only way to go. Im also not sure on the 9'' wheel, the thing with the draglite VS any of those wheels you mentioned is the shape in the back of the wheel really helps with caliper clearance, and on my billet specialties, i got them to physically clear the caliper, but the banjo bolt for the brake line was the actual problem. The drum of the billet specialtes wheel is a completely different shape.
 
I really like those weld RT's, and i think they would look good on your car. IMO, if you are going to spend the money on a dedicated track tire, the slick is the only way to go. Im also not sure on the 9'' wheel, the thing with the draglite VS any of those wheels you mentioned is the shape in the back of the wheel really helps with caliper clearance, and on my billet specialties, i got them to physically clear the caliper, but the banjo bolt for the brake line was the actual problem. The drum of the billet specialtes wheel is a completely different shape.

So the Draglite has a different rim than the Prostar? I would have thought it'd be the same, just with a different center section.

Weld's website advertises the RT-S as "Target applications for this wheel include cars from the 1950's through today's challenging modern applications such as the 4th generation Camaro/Firebird, C4 to C6 Corvette, 2010 Camaro, and the Cobra Mustang." I wonder if that means they took into consideration the brake calipers, or if it's just marketing BS.