Progress Thread Fire Hazard GT build: On the road

rdharper02 · Oct 15, 2020

a91what said:
Where are you located? I work in Tampa.

Any suggestions on someone local to tune this pig when I'm done? I can't remember the brand of the current chip, but she runs incredibly rich done low. I would like to go with the AEM plug and play collecting dust, but am up for suggestions from those you recommend. Thanks in advance.

rdharper02 · Oct 19, 2020

So since I get such blazing feedback, I figured I would put another couple of questions towards the forum. I had originally become a bit rambunctious in cutting my inner fender. Beyond MadMike and others giving me flak it's always bothered me. The original plan was to use some Scott Rod panels to cover it up, but lately I have been researching a lot of metal fab for another vehicle, so I templated what I want with cardboard, then proceeded to make it out of 20ga steel. A bit heavier than I should, but I've met my intent on making something that can be removed if necessary. This leads me to two questions:
1. Does the panel get painted white, or wrinkle black?
2. Once painted, does it get screwed or riveted in?

Let me know.

Monkeybutt2000 · Oct 19, 2020

I would screw it in with some nice button head screws.

a91what · Oct 19, 2020

Agreed, tack the nuts onto the inner fender and use something nice.

rdharper02 · Oct 19, 2020

I hadn't thought about it, but like the idea. Welding underneath the fender might be a pain, but I've always wanted to try those threaded zerks. Might be an option. Any thoughts on color of the panel. Part of me like the thought of the the black contrasting.

nickyb · Oct 19, 2020

Painted white,black headed screws,call it good.

rdharper02 · Oct 19, 2020

Not 100% going that way, but the rivet nut driver has been ordered....lol

Rdub6 · Oct 19, 2020

I think if you go with white, it will be too obvious it’s not the same white as the rest of the bay. I would go black for the contrast.

90sickfox · Oct 20, 2020

I'd do it in silver that matches the turbo and pipes. Then I'd use rivnuts and stainless allen head bolts.

The silver will make it blend in and look better than black or wrinkle. The black wrinkle looks cheap to me on a flat surface.

rdharper02 · Oct 20, 2020

Rdub6 said:
I think if you go with white, it will be too obvious it’s not the same white as the rest of the bay. I would go black for the contrast.

I agree, besides I've always wanted to black out the engine bay. I'm not a fan of a bay color that shows every speck of dirt, or drip of fluid.

90sickfox said:
I'd do it in silver that matches the turbo and pipes. Then I'd use rivnuts and stainless allen head bolts.

The silver will make it blend in and look better than black or wrinkle. The black wrinkle looks cheap to me on a flat surface.

The turbo and the piping are actually done in Jet-Hot's silver. I think I would play hell matching the color directly, but you've given me a possible idea. VHT make a decent flat black and silver. If I spray it in silver, then mask off the edges. I could spray the center black, leaving the border in silver.
add black screws, and I think it might turn out fairly good. Thoughts?

nickyb · Oct 21, 2020

If you think you'll like it just do it,then if it isn't ,well paint is cheap , you could try another combo

rdharper02 · Oct 22, 2020

nickyb said:
If you think you'll like it just do it,then if it isn't ,well paint is cheap , you could try another combo

True, very true. I did get my rivnut driver yesterday, so it's time to find some decent screws and get on with it.

rdharper02 · Oct 24, 2020

I snuck out to the garage yesterday and went to replace the cheap, inaccurate, dipstick. CJ Pony parts was nice enough to hook me up with a factory style Ford Performance piece. So pulled the cheapy and was amazed to see something I hadn't caught before. If you've read some of the earlier posts, I posted photos of finding a bunch of glitter in the oil, only to find I still have decent oil pressure. Well, I'm missing quite a bit of sparkly chrome plating from this gem.

I also learned that it is a hell of a lot easier to install a dipstick without exhaust manifolds and a million other parts in the way. I had the Boss Lady call me in for dinner, but still haven't got the new dipstick seated. Anyone have any Yoda like tricks to get this thing in?

Mustang5L5 · Oct 24, 2020

Had the same issues with mine. I actually had to sand the part that slips into the block to finally get it to fit in. In between standings I cleaned it to remove particles. Took a few tries but it was a tight fit. I installed the header at the same time. I couldn’t really get it in with the header in place.

rdharper02 · Nov 2, 2020

Finished the inner panel last night. I do appreciate all the input and suggestions. I went with the wrinkle black and some of the most expensive stainless button heads I've ever purchased. I love the riv-nut driver and have learned a ton using it. Mainly, that I can still do dumb@ss things no matter how much I plan.

Look closely at the above image. This is where I seem to forget that I need to have extra room to unscrew the riv-nut gizmo. That's right, this paticular moment is where I am debating on removing the turbo manifold, or taking a saw to the riv-nut driver. I decided to bend the inner panel a bit, unscrew the riv-nut, and then body hammer it flat. After that intense victory I had to scratch my head and ask myself "how the fugg am I going to do the bottom drilled holes without access?" The answer came to me in the form of completely ignoring my pre-drilled holes, reversing the riv-nut and screwing it in from under the car. Not my greatest work, but I think she's done for now.

Didn't get pictures of the dipstick installed but came up with a new method. I tried sanding the dang thing down, greasing it up, and some voodoo chants with no real progress. I remember the one I removed being a pain in the ar$e when I installed it on the engine stand. Doing it in the bay, from underneath proved to be a heck of a lot more difficult. So after failing miserably, I went to get a beer and leave the tube in the freezer. Pulled it out today, placed a 3/8 wrench over it, gave it a couple of whacks and it seated. I'll take that as a "W" for the day.

rdharper02 · Nov 3, 2020

Two things I wanted to ask the forum about.

1. I'm increasingly paranoid about temperature and oil pressure in all my toys. Has anyone done the vent gauge (center vent) above the stereo and air controls? Any complaints? I'm really not liking the idea of having fifty gauges in the car, but like the idea of overheating or losing an engine even less.

2. Probably the most pressing thing. The front end on this thing is all new minus the used calipers and spindles. Between the all the adjustable crap I've installed on it, it needs to be brought back into some sort of alignment just to get it to a legit shop (which I'm still looking for." It's so far out that it's difficult even to push. I'm considering the four jackstand and kite string method, but the rear end may be out of whack a bit. Any suggestions for a quick, easy method just to get her on the road?

rdharper02 · Nov 7, 2020

Mustang5L5 said:
Had the same issues with mine. I actually had to sand the part that slips into the block to finally get it to fit in. In between standings I cleaned it to remove particles. Took a few tries but it was a tight fit. I installed the header at the same time. I couldn’t really get it in with the header in place.

I never got really in-depth, but I did end up using your advice and sanding it by hand. Sanding combined with an overnight in the fridge really helped get it in there. Of note, I had to grind/sand the portion that mounts around the header bolt due to it hitting the manifold and not getting down around the bolt. There's probably two hours into slowly removing material, and then testing it before setting in the dipstick. Now that I think about it, it basically took me several days to put the dipstick in. I'll take that "W" away and call that a fail....lol.

I'm working on cleaning out the floor from under the car and found the unattached sway bar I still haven't installed. I found the poly bushings, end links, and mounts, but no bolts. Question of the day: What size are the bolts that mount the front sway bar?

General karthief · Nov 7, 2020

Does not matter how long it takes to make something work on our cars, if it fits, don't leak and looks good that's a win in my book!

rdharper02 · Nov 8, 2020

I'm thinking you're right. Anything that doesn't catch fire is a win for me..........I've still got time though...lol.

General karthief · Nov 8, 2020

Extinguisher in your stang ?

Got her back together today , no leaks ! Now to get an extinguisher.

stangnet.com

Progress Thread Fire Hazard GT build: On the road

like kicking myself in the junk

like kicking myself in the junk

Mustang Master

SendMeUrDataLog

like kicking myself in the junk

I gotta say i never painted my nuts, Never Ever

like kicking myself in the junk

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands

like kicking myself in the junk

I gotta say i never painted my nuts, Never Ever

like kicking myself in the junk

like kicking myself in the junk

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

like kicking myself in the junk

like kicking myself in the junk

like kicking myself in the junk

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

like kicking myself in the junk

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

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