I've had the valve covers off, while observing a piece of welding rod, to attempt to determine she's still on. I don't trust this method with the AFRs and exhaust manifold because you get a gauge like sweep up and down. It appears dead-on, but I'm still paranoid that the doggone pointer was tapped after I placed it with the heads off. Short of removing the heads and doing the dial indicator process again. It's the best she's going to get and should be within a few degrees.
You have bigger issues to worry about before you deal with checking for TDC.
that down pipe touching the steering rack, and the new plug wire you’re gonna need, with the requisite insulator bootie covers installed to make sure that don’t happen again.
Once that is done, then....
TDC can be checked with the heads on using a piston stop that you screw into the spark plug hole. If you know the procedure to check for TDC once you have that, Ill spare you the details. if you don’t, just let me know and i’ll tell you how to do it.
that down pipe touching the steering rack, and the new plug wire you’re gonna need, with the requisite insulator bootie covers installed to make sure that don’t happen again.
Once that is done, then....
TDC can be checked with the heads on using a piston stop that you screw into the spark plug hole. If you know the procedure to check for TDC once you have that, Ill spare you the details. if you don’t, just let me know and i’ll tell you how to do it.
The crossover and rack are wrapped now, wire loom (and a single booty) has been installed already. As far as your piston stop, brilliant. I refer to it as the threaded thingy I forgot I had until you said something. put it in at the notional TDC. Taped the balancer, reversed the direction, and cut the difference in half. About 10 degrees off. Re-set, screw with wires and fire to set the timing. Still running at 12.8ish and the timing lite gives out. Shut it down and I now have fuel leak at the pressure gauge. Additionally, I just noticed that the fuel line was resting against the passenger side manifold...awesome. Pre-heated fuel has to do wonders.
I have no clue how I missed your post, but will get a hold of you via direct conversation.
Anyone with UPR coilovers find a decent wrench for them? I'm trying to go up a whopping 1/2 inch under load and have decided that my UPR wrench requires me to wrap Andre the Giant's hands around the sleeve and wrench. In comparison, my girly hands allow the wrench to slip every mm of a turn. Sometimes you're Rocky.....sometimes your the side of beef.
Or you could use a jack and take some weight of the front end.Easier to turn(by hand) and makes accessing over the tire a possibility.
Would agree. Of you start gumming up the threads, all sorts of stuff sticks to them.
I’ve always adjusted my MM springs by hand. Jack up the front, reach around the wheel and twist.
of course, drag springs are longer, so you might need a wrench but I’ve never seen much of a difference between the brands on how the spanner is used to thread the nut up or down.
I’ve always adjusted my MM springs by hand. Jack up the front, reach around the wheel and twist.
of course, drag springs are longer, so you might need a wrench but I’ve never seen much of a difference between the brands on how the spanner is used to thread the nut up or down.
Well, I've never considered myself an expert at anything. I will say that I learned this method from my Dad's chassis shop, used it on several previous cars, and will continue to use it. You can wipe excess, or dirt, away. You have to machine to repair galling and not all set-ups are going to allow a person to "turn by hand" while under pressure. To each their own.
I just adjusted all four corners on the Monster,..and the two fronts are under pressure regardless as to whether the suspension is unloaded or not.
You gotta get a better spanner wrench. I bought a thicker unit long ago, and even with that extended the handle length to make turning the adjusters easier.
I wipe the threads off, shoot a stream of wd 40 and make the adjustments..its still a bitch up front.
No doubt about the wrench. The rears are nice and civil, the fronts, well they really make you appreciate them when you get them done.
Today was something new in the struggle that is 2020. Seems Autometer expects me to creatively understand instructions for another gauge cage and create parts not contained in their box. Pulled my vents, got the kit out the box, and had a heck of a time figuring out the fact that I'm minus the rear-plate the face screws into. Additionally, as uncomfortable as it makes me, the instructions show me how to cut my ~30 year old vent to fit it into their gauge cage. However, it doesn't show how the flip to mount the cut vents into the gauge cage........joyyyyyyy