Engine First start after 8 months, smoking in the engine bay.
- Thread starter opihinalu
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- foxbody foxbody 5.0 smoking
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The only thing that tells me is it ain't cranking over real fast.
Look, I don't know what you're trying to do but if this car sat for eight months, there may be multiple issues,
is the battery new/fully charged?
good connections? This could be the smoking issue, overheated cable/bad connections/low voltage, high resistance.
bad fuel, low fuel pressure,
verify one thing at a time.
Look, I don't know what you're trying to do but if this car sat for eight months, there may be multiple issues,
is the battery new/fully charged?
good connections? This could be the smoking issue, overheated cable/bad connections/low voltage, high resistance.
bad fuel, low fuel pressure,
verify one thing at a time.
Stop looking for a 'fix in a bottle'
verify that things are working, good battery, good fuel/pressure is the starting point.
verify that things are working, good battery, good fuel/pressure is the starting point.
Thanks for your input. The battery is not new. It reads 11 volts. That is enough for the car to start, correct? The battery’s connections are clean though I lost the nut for the negative terminal hold down, not sure if that would change anything. I will replace that. I will check for fuel pressure tomorrow.
When I wired the electric fan, it asked for a 12 volt switched ignition source. I am not sure what the exact name for this is but I used a ring terminal and attached it to the starter relay on the same bolt the positive battery ring terminal was attached to. If this isn’t clear enough I will send a picture when I get home. Could this be a cause for the smoking issue? The smoke was coming from the same area. I don’t know much about electrical stuff (or anything like this to be honest) but could I have overloaded something over there some how?
Without getting into technical talk, 11 volts plus any resistance, meaning bad connections, old battery cables and electrical load, is not enough to safely crank the engine and can/will overheat wiring. Also cook the starter.
a fully charged battery should read like 12.6 + volts.
a fully charged battery should read like 12.6 + volts.
Alright so I tested the fuel pressure and it reads 35 psi. I also tried starter fluid just to check if somehow all the injectors were clogged, no start. I charged the battery. I started following jrichkers checklist. For the first step, I receive no spark. I hear a loud click from my starter I assume but I get no start.
That’s all the time I have to work on it today but I will continue following the steps tomorrow, though for step 3, failing PIP sensor, can I pretty much disregard this because it started a couple days ago? I also did a code read and didn’t receive code 14, which makes me think I am in the clear.
That’s all the time I have to work on it today but I will continue following the steps tomorrow, though for step 3, failing PIP sensor, can I pretty much disregard this because it started a couple days ago? I also did a code read and didn’t receive code 14, which makes me think I am in the clear.
I would troubleshoot the no crank first.
Make sure car is in nuetral, turn key to on. Use a screwdriver and touch positive terminal with all the connections on it to the small center post. That should bridge the starter relay and turn the motor over
Make sure car is in nuetral, turn key to on. Use a screwdriver and touch positive terminal with all the connections on it to the small center post. That should bridge the starter relay and turn the motor over
No it cranks now, sorry if I wasn’t clear. I was missing the plug in connector on the starter relay.
Yes, but that is with the coil wire unplugged at the distributor and me bridging the point at the plug in connector and the positive terminal point on the starter relay. Is that bad?
The engine does crank if everything is plugged in, yes.
Another probably important thing to note is that it will get closer to starting the longer it has been sitting. I hadn’t attempted starting it in like 3 days and it was close and then the try right after gave me nothing again. It is like as soon as the starter gets warm the more trouble it has starting.
The little wire should have power only when holding the key in the start position. That’s the only time you want the relay (solenoid) sending power to the starter.
One of the big terminals should have power all the time a sound and charged battery is attached. The other big terminal should have power only when the little terminal has power.
Does that help?
This is getting hard to fallow, see post #27.
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