First start up using megasquirt.. 1992 5.0.

hmm ill go take a pic of the engine and post it.... but i noticed my egr valve has vacuum.. but ill post a pic in a sec

My vac gauge hooked up to the vac tree shows 18.. So if theres a vac leak its gotta be somewhere on the motor.. Cause i unhooked the brake booster pluged that hole and unhooked all the accessories from the back of the intake "egr vac canisters and heat controls" still read 18.. But the car was surging so its bouncing from 17 18.. But with everything as it should all hooked up. Its still reading 18.. So i duno what to think
 
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there i changed the vac hose from the intake to the charcoal cannister cause it was straight screwed... rotted and was falling apart haha heres the data log from that run.... cars pullin 18in of vac on the gauge i have hooked up
 

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  • 2019-03-25_18.26.03.msl-march25th hooked everything up changed a vac hose-vac gauge on motor.msl
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There's the vac leak, cap that connection to the intake. The charcoal has a solenoid on it that is no longer serviced by the ecu

dam i was hoping that fixed it... well i guess im gonna block off all the ports for the egr crap.. the charcoal cannister and then fill the engine with my smoke machine and see where it comes out.. and if no smoke comes out then im just gonna suspect that its my intake gasket.. but im not reading any suction at my oil fill cap.. so im literally at a loss for whats causing it.. but i guess ill be digging in and pulling a late night chasing a god dam vac leak ,,, not a happy camper
 
This might sound dumb. But ive got 3 stock throttle bodies here. All have the plate without a hole in it... The one on my car has its got a hole in it... All three of my stock tbs dont have any hole in them.. I wonder if thats it.. Even my 70mm bbk i got on my cobra intake doesnt have a hole in it... It couldnt be that easy im thinkin lol
 
well that hole in the throttle body plate had to be the unmetered air.... cause i can set my idle Beyond the target and then some if i wanted too heres the datalog from my start and resetting tps and throttle screw to get the car running in the datalog i noticed my idle air valve is actually working like it should... I can actually stall out my car just moving the idle screw now..i could never do that before... LOL
 

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  • 2019-03-25_21.55.09.msl-plugged up charcoal line no heater controls blocked hole in throttle b...msl
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Great, now the real idle tuning can begin. you need to set the idle screw so the car will idle at around 20% PWM duty.
Then get a new datalog and i can show you how to set the closed loop idle initial values table.

ok well its Minus 14 out right now to cold for my blood and i didnt fire up the woodstove in the shop... so that will happen tomorrow cause my neighbours kids are asleep haha
 
well heres a datalog from today... the fuel tables probably to rich now for the car to idle lower... i could go lower but the car had a hard time stayin running.. had to give it some throttle to keep it alive during the cold start.. but to me i think my ve tables either to rich .. or theres something still up with the car and i frickin hope there isnt.. cause im gettin really aggravated with this thing... lol just out of curiosity i hit ve analyze to see what numbers it would change for 185temp and up and it removed a butt load of fuel from alot of cells so i think im way to rich
 

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  • 2019-03-26_12.39.30.msl-march26th trying to lower pwm to 20% at idle.msl
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ok thats about where you want it, the idle valve is doing its job just fine now. the only way to lower the idle further is to lower it in the closed loop idle target rpm curve

Well using the last value "185*temp i think" in closed loop idle target rpm. I was able to get my car to idle at 450rpm.. I gave it a try and went from 825-750-650-550. And it stayed running. Lowest ive ever heard this car idle.. I got a datalog of it
 
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That means you have won the cl idle battle my friend.
Now to drive the car some and tune the fuel there.

well
That means you have won the cl idle battle my friend.
Now to drive the car some and tune the fuel there.

i think i gotta figure out my start up cranking duty steps because now i cant start the car without holding the throttle... so im watchin your closed loop idle setting videos... and from what i can tell from my cold start datalogs with the vac leaks fixed is that 47% duty nets me 1250rpms on a cold motor.. so im gonna give that a try for my duty% on cold start up and intepolate the table and see if that works... then ill use a datalog to find where my car idles and at what %duty i need to make it play nice and be happy
 
should i be changing any settings in closed loop idle PID gains.. im just wondering if i should change the tuning mode to advanced since in changing my duty% on crank and start up.. i know i gotta get the idle valve to get the car to idle when cold and hot without me holding the throttle now that i dont have any excess air goin into the motor helping it along.. cause i cant be driving the car and having it die out everytime i hit the throttle..
 
well it started fine.... but still i cant touch the throttle it stubles and wants to die everytime... am i missing something here? like am i supose to change the intial values table to give it more air? im totally lost and im about 2 seconds away from pullin the megasquirt out and puttin the factory ecu in and sayin to hell with it