Great pic!I think the visors just stay due to internal friction on the visor rod.
For the rubber trim, you just remove the sunroof and peel it off from the outside. When you put the new headliner in, pull the material tight and install the rubber strip to hold it. I used paperclips with glue, and then trimmed with a sharp razor
I hope the PO did not glue the seal over what looks like a pinch weld.The rubber just kinda pressed down and uses friction to hold it in place.
The headliner itself is glued to the seam. That’s why I have the clips. Glue, pull tight, clip. Trim and then put the rubber gasket on.
That’s not in doubt.I’ve been around long enough to know that if @Mustang5L5 did it a certain way…… that’s the way you should do it!! An engineers mind is nothing to waste!!
That’s not in doubt.
How to fix my visors still is.
Then I will post on how when 1. It drives me Completely nuts or 2. When my other project gets home, whichever happens first.Unfortunately I just haven’t dove into that project. The visors I had were in excellent shape so I’ve never pulled a pair apart. Uncharted territory unfortunately
The visors on my car have either a butt end connector or bullet connector above the swivel plate from when they were removed before. (It’s been 10 years since I had them recovered to match the headliner.) The upholstery dude cut the melted studs without breaking the plastic mirror frame and used two screws to hold it in place.I pulled apart a tattered visor I had, there is a metal piece riveted to the cardboard, it kinda has three pieces to it, the rod has a section that is flat on two sides that orient in the center metal section, kinda hard to visualize, the lighted mirror it actually bolted to the cardboard so you have to cut the cover at the seam to get to them, and I didn't yet find how to get the wire for the vanity lights out of the mount but I figure it has to be un -pinned to get through the hole.
I haven't seen a way to tighten it up beyond squeezing the center piece of metal a little, The visor I took apart was pretty tight.
I'll have to dig a little deeper tomorrow, have not had much time to myself lately.
It’s “greatly frustrating” to me that 1. it is reading right now it finally went to full so I cannot trust that I have it fixed and maybe know what’s broken. 2. It’s too dang hot to do by myself (or at all this week), and my assistant is going to back to school later in the week.I would start by grounding the gauge wire at the connector at the tank, it should sweep straight to full.
I personally would guess the tank sender but I would have to consult my magic book for confirmation.
There are the numbers! I had 60’s GM specs in my head and knew that was not likely right.After checking 'the magic book' it refers to using a ford tool that likely nobody has, I really want to collect some of these test tools, they are out there someplace but the book gives resistance readings for the sender so a VOM can be used for that:
145 ohms at full
22.5 at empty
Question #1 (GT model only) does the low fuel light work?
Note: GT model only, not sure if this is all GTs, mine is an 89.
#2 does the gauge stay in place when key is switched off?
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