Heads and Cam for N/A Low 12's~~

I need head and cam suggestions from the knowledgeable one's.

Here is what I'm working with. 306 roller block, decked & balanced. stock bottom end, speed pro pistons, All msd ignition, Performer RPM intake (carbed) 650 DP. 1 5/8 Longtube headers Car is ~3100lbs. T5z trans and 4.30 rear gears. Will be run on 26-28 inch slicks still unsure.

I need cam and head suggestions. I know there are guaranteed combinations that will get me there, such as AFR's with matched cams.

I'm thoroughly confused because I keep researching different combos and flow numbers, cam specs, compression ratios etc... and I don't know what's right for me.

I don't want to dish out $1300 on AFR's if I can get say edelbrock performer RPM's slightly used for $900 I'm just confused because I'm looking at all these different heads and don't know what's right for me.

As far as the cam goes, I don't want to go too drastic, something around 224-230, maybe something from comp cams. I still need to pass emissions testing so too much cam won't help.

Any ideas??? All thoughts appreciated. Once the motor's in and running I plan to upgrade the stock fuel system and throw on a small shot of N2O
 
There are guys out there with stock heads/cam running mid 12's.....

There are lots of ways to get to a particular ET. It doesn't take all that much HP to do it in a 3000 lb. car IF you can put every last scrap of that power to the ground. The guys running low ET's with mild combos can do it because they've really got the suspension/traction/gearing combo dialed in, and, of course, they can drive.

With the proper traction, driving skills and gearing -- you can run low 12's at 3000 lbs. without ever touching the camshaft -- just exhaust/intake/heads.

If traction or driving skills are a problem, you can build a 400+ HP engine, and have trouble getting into the low 12's.

So - how do you want to get there? With brute force, or with finesse?
 
wht93gtEd said:
but isn't brute force just so much fun sometimes? :banana:

Brute force and finesse is the way to go!

I agree there are lots of ways to go low 12s (I assume you mean on a tire). A GT40 headed car with a stock cam and all the bolt ons will run low 12s without too much effort. Any out of the box head aftermarket head with the right bolt ons, and a mild cam should be there as well with traction.

On street tires it will be a lot tougher, but on a slick or ET Street or even a drag radial, a typical HCI combo shouldnt be too hard to run low 12s!
 
I will be running slicks and I am aware that stock heads and cam will support 12's. however, since I am already building a new motor up I think it's time to ditch the current heads for somthing better.

I think my gearing is pretty much dead on 12.7:1, 8.5:1, 5.7:1, 4.30:1. If I trap anywhere in the 107mph range I will be pushing 6K rpm on a 26inch tire.

This is in a 68 mustang coupe. Rear is a 9 inch with 5 leafs, Cal-tracs may used if traction becomes an issue with the slicks

With that said I think any decent aftermarket head and cam will get me where I want to be along with some practice driving.
 
That car should weigh a little less than a fox body car which might make it easier. But then again Im not sure how well the cars going to hook (less weight is harder to get traction, and Im not sure how optimum the suspension set up is) With 107 mph traps, and traction mid 12s are no problem, and like stated before, 107 isnt hard at all with some aftermarket heads and cam!

Might be worth looking into some good used heads, and save some money there. Then get a custom cam (call one of the big names out there and get the right cam) for your combo, and it should do well into the 12s!
 
Yes... but the leaf sprung car will react a lot different than the 5.0s and the fox bodies.. Make sure you have a 90/10 front shock and have the pinion angle at 4-6* neg and the slapper bars tight on the leaf... then the 3100 lb car will be a killer!!
Yes on all the heads.. stuf, and confusing numbers and flow tech!! Cheap?? GT40s and then have them freshened, Or GT40P's, or Ported E7s... they will all allow 12s and after re-doing the 40's be around 700-800.00 ( ported E7's at 695.00 ) Or pick up a set of edlebrocks (Used) and have a shop go thru them, for about another 300-400.00 . The 68 will look trick on all Ford Blue engine.. alum Stealth intake and a vac secondary holley on top!! The cam needs to be where you want to cross the line at... 5% above the max cam HP is a good start... and remember the carb will take a bigger duration to get the same power as an F/I car... so a 230-240@ .050 will pull power to 5800-6200 rpm!!

have fun...
Just me...........................

Thumper