I started writing this last night and the PC crashed. Anyway, worked on my son's 2005 Volvo XC90 over the weekend. I already had put a new balljoint and lower control arm on the passenger side, but due to the fact that it took all damn day to figure out how to get the new ball joint in the spindle, we had to postpone doing the driver side. The V is backward from everything I've worked on. The ball joint is pressed into the bottom of the spindle. Volvo makes a special $150 driver to hammer it in. The big Atlas tools ball joint press at Autozone is not supposed to work. After dicking with it all day, I got up Sunday and said WTF and got it and got it in pretty much trouble free.
Fast foward to this weekend. I have all the tools out, start getting stuff apart, use the back joint tool in an all too sketchy manner but again it works with no lost fingers or even any cussing. I tell my boy to replace the control arm while I replace the tie rod end. It's a weird design with a cross bar with two bolts in the front going thru the frame horizontally and one bushing in the rear that is oriented vertically with one bolt thru it. He keeps fussing and sighing and says I give up...can you get this one bolt started. SO I make fun of him and get under there.....and start cussing. I say give me my glasses. I look for a minute or two then realize one of the bolt holes is NOT TAPPED. WTF! I guess that's the game of buying things in the economy listing at RockAuto.
I've got the correct tap, so take it off and try to tap it. Obviously that cross bar is hardened and it's harder than the cheap ass Chinee tap set I have. I tried to ream the hole to get the tap started and about the time it finally started to cut a thread, the tap broke!! Then it took me another hour to get the old ball joint out of the control arm. With the volvo setup you have to have a pickle fork or ball joint spreader tool to get it out. There is not any spring force on it to do the regular loosen it and hit the control arm with a hammer. So I had to go to Autozone and rent the spreader tool.
Finished up with a home grown tape measure alignment. It needs tires, so I said it's close enough and we're going to PepBoys Wed to get it aligned and new tires.
But then last night he texts and says the Service Anti Skid System message has come up. No check engine light and I don't think a regular ODBII code reader will tell anything. The only possible correlation is I removed the driver's side anti-lock sensor from the spindle and put it back in. I double checked the wire wasn't being pinched between the strut and the sway bar end link. So I don't know if it is just a coincidence or if I did something and broke that sensor.
The interwebs say the #1 cause is the steering angle sensor ($300+) in the steering column or the vehicle yaw sensor under the passenger seat. More $$$$ freaking money pit. My ex bought this for him without consulting me. I was going to get him a good old Ranger. So happy high school graduation present to my box. 4 new ground grippers and an alignment.
Fast foward to this weekend. I have all the tools out, start getting stuff apart, use the back joint tool in an all too sketchy manner but again it works with no lost fingers or even any cussing. I tell my boy to replace the control arm while I replace the tie rod end. It's a weird design with a cross bar with two bolts in the front going thru the frame horizontally and one bushing in the rear that is oriented vertically with one bolt thru it. He keeps fussing and sighing and says I give up...can you get this one bolt started. SO I make fun of him and get under there.....and start cussing. I say give me my glasses. I look for a minute or two then realize one of the bolt holes is NOT TAPPED. WTF! I guess that's the game of buying things in the economy listing at RockAuto.
I've got the correct tap, so take it off and try to tap it. Obviously that cross bar is hardened and it's harder than the cheap ass Chinee tap set I have. I tried to ream the hole to get the tap started and about the time it finally started to cut a thread, the tap broke!! Then it took me another hour to get the old ball joint out of the control arm. With the volvo setup you have to have a pickle fork or ball joint spreader tool to get it out. There is not any spring force on it to do the regular loosen it and hit the control arm with a hammer. So I had to go to Autozone and rent the spreader tool.
Finished up with a home grown tape measure alignment. It needs tires, so I said it's close enough and we're going to PepBoys Wed to get it aligned and new tires.
But then last night he texts and says the Service Anti Skid System message has come up. No check engine light and I don't think a regular ODBII code reader will tell anything. The only possible correlation is I removed the driver's side anti-lock sensor from the spindle and put it back in. I double checked the wire wasn't being pinched between the strut and the sway bar end link. So I don't know if it is just a coincidence or if I did something and broke that sensor.
The interwebs say the #1 cause is the steering angle sensor ($300+) in the steering column or the vehicle yaw sensor under the passenger seat. More $$$$ freaking money pit. My ex bought this for him without consulting me. I was going to get him a good old Ranger. So happy high school graduation present to my box. 4 new ground grippers and an alignment.
If you have to do a rear wheel bearing sell that pos. Lol
For some reason everything in the rear seizes up. 3 times I've had to remove the whole rear spindle with the axle attached and took them to a truck shop to get them pressed apart. They have huge presses in cages at the semi axle and spring shop i deal with. They thought their press was about to break. My 20 ton couldn't even make it budge.
For some reason everything in the rear seizes up. 3 times I've had to remove the whole rear spindle with the axle attached and took them to a truck shop to get them pressed apart. They have huge presses in cages at the semi axle and spring shop i deal with. They thought their press was about to break. My 20 ton couldn't even make it budge.
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What kind of mileage am I expecting the POS rear to sieze? It's got 120k right now. And new tires. And a **** up front end...still. When you hit the breaks it doesn't pull the steering wheel, but crabs left. I am getting another control arm for the driver side and will replace it tomorrow night. Hopefully, it's a case of the old one is worse than it looks or maybe in the swap and reswap of control arms, we forget to get it tight.
I changed the DS control arm and it still crabs left but not as bad. Kid is busy so don't know when I'll get eyes on it again. I wonder if it's a rear control arm or a frozen front caliper.
The brake (I think I spelled it break in earlier post...haha...it's a break(ed) down POS) pedal is also very spongy. Fluid is clear, they must have flushed it at the 100k service before exwifey bought it. It's pretty near full. So I am thinking some caliper monkey business. But, again, the kid who complains that it creaks, cracks, pops, the headliner has disintegrated, and he is basically embarrassed as
Nice work so far Droopie. I don’t envy your wiring project at all. I hope to get by with mostly factory replacement harnesses for everything I need to do.
I will add though, when it’s time for insurance, definitely check with Hagerty. I use them for my 64 impala. As many miles as I want and insured at 45k replacement value. All they wanted was pictures and proof of my garage and it costs me just under $300/yr. I’ll put the stang on there once it’s roadworthy.
I will add though, when it’s time for insurance, definitely check with Hagerty. I use them for my 64 impala. As many miles as I want and insured at 45k replacement value. All they wanted was pictures and proof of my garage and it costs me just under $300/yr. I’ll put the stang on there once it’s roadworthy.
Ha Fffing Ha. I am just waiting to get past the 5 months of below 80 weather so it will be 95 in the garage so I can get started back on it, smarty pants!
I wrote over on FEP, I really want to trade this for a roller (maybe with a 6pt roll bar) so my bro and I can go drag racing again. I could do it in this one, but I fear, it would only take a few weeks before the interior is gutted and the money pit opens.
But with the rusted ass roof, and other issues, I could start with it as is. I know to have a chance bracket racing it needs an auto, but I just don't want to swap pedal boxes.
Now you know that ain't gonna be right Vern.. Its not like you can rotate the thing out of sight.
You know, you can just remove the clutch pedal and put a sleeve or something back in place to take up the gap..there's always that possibility...
Or you could just leave a clutch pedal smashed against the firewall. Whatever pushes the " that'll do pig, that'll do" button for you.
Ugghh
Why on earth would you even bother building a car for this? You have a daily driver.....put that bitch in d and go racing.
The slowest car on the planet is all that's required to win in bracket racing..No tire spin, no inconsistency based on the tune, or the air density....just a mind numbing 20 second wait to get to the finish line,........and a reason for the handful of spectators that are watching to go to the bathroom.
I only have severe OCD with some things and a pedal held out of the way is not one of them, I never want to change that assembly out again. so here comes the ziptie squad to get er done.
unless it keeps messing with my foot when I have to fidget or twitch, which i do more often then i like to admit... then it will have to come out, or i will have a nervous breakdown whilst driving
"Whilst driving?"
Do you have a Jaguar in your driveway too? The one in My driveway has a book in it that has that word usage constantly.
no sir I have a 91 Ford Mustang Cabriolet, It came with a pretentious hat that i must adorn myself with whilst trolling on the haters
You are correct. But heads up racing is about who has the biggest wallet. Hell the Pro Stock champion Tanner Gray jumped to NASCAR this year....which is like jumping off the Titanic onto the Andea Doria. But there are 2 8th mile tracks within 45 miles of home that regularly pay between 1000-2000 to win.
So my question is, can you take the clutch pedal off without taking the whole damn thing out of the dash? I can easily make a spacer to take up the slack.
Or just put a return spring on the clutch pedal and let rednecks scratch their heads.