Code 11 means that there are no other codes present and everything checks out OK.Quick question
In the first page it says you should get a code 11 when dumping codes. Is that all the time, or only if there are no codes present? I get code 34 but no code 11. Thanks in advance.
It looks like this isn't frequented as much anymore but I'm having some issues.
I have a 95 mustang h/c/I. SCT BA2600 calibrated for accel 36lb injectors. 340lph fuel pump and adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
All these parts are new as of 200 miles ago. My car has developed an issue stalling when turning at low speeds or if turning hard and not moving but with the clutch in and no gas. This seems to happen hot or cold. The RPMs will just drop instantly and the car shuts off. Sometimes pressing the gas while it happens can save it. IAC has been replaced with no luck. Each time it stalls it seems to correlate with turning. It is worth with AC on. At idle turning the wheel hard does drop the RPM.
Hoping for any input on what could possibly cause this behavior.
I should have noted the car currently has a tune from ted jenkins from tuning innovations.It’s doing it because your anti-stall strategy is not able to compensate for the mods you made and the additional load on the engine to turn the power steering pump when it’s loaded is causing your stalling.
Follow the guide to make sure your timing is set and you have not vacuum leaks. Check your base idle. You might have to raise it some to clear out the issues. Ultimately you might have to get a tune.
Do you have a blower or plan on getting one? Is your engine a 347?
If it’s a 302 I would loose that fuel pump, the 36lb injectors, and that mass air meter. Is all way to big for a H/C/I 302. Your car will run better with smaller parts.
Ok then the tune probably needs some tweaking. Check out this YouTube link for a very good explanation of what’s going on.I should have noted the car currently has a tune from ted jenkins from tuning innovations.
Idle is around 8-900.
I do have plans for a supercharger in the future which is why the shop sized it a bit large.
I had a tune previously from a local shop that also had this issue. It is possible that both are missing something.
Most of the mileage I had no issues and then it recently popped up.
I also got notes from the 94/95 to check if I see the same issue wheels off the ground and if I'm hitting any wires with the steering column. I will see if I can get a test done for a vacuum leak as well.
You should probably start your own thread for this issue as it will draw more attention and get more replies.Hi Folks, Im the next victim of the hanging / high idle on a 93 Cobra Fox I just picked up. 64k mi
Cant get idle below 1000 RPM when cold. As its driven and warms it hangs at 1500-1700 between shifts and when coasting. Also, the idle isn't completely smooth either. When at operating temp it idles around 1100. when revved at park its slow to return to that 1100. There is no perceived loss of power when accelerating and its strong
Here's what Ive done:
new plugs, rotor, cap, wires
new battery
new PCV valve with grommet
new IAC
new MAF
new TPS
sprayed and cleaned throttle body plate
set TPS to 0.95V and performed base idle reset
checked for vacuum leaks via poor mans smoke test then disabled (capped) vacuum system with exception of PCV and fuel pressure regulator line
alternator checked and charging properly
cleaned and retensioned 10 pin salt and pepper shaker connectors
reset timing to 10 deg BTDC
According to previous owner, Years ago, engine was pulled. Intake replaced, balanced/blueprinted and a mild aftermarket CAM installed.
Im out of ideas. My 91 Fox 5.0 is along side it and idles perfectly.
Can a tuner adjust the EEC computer idle settings? or should I get a better vacuum leak test done on it? or something else?
Help please!!
Adding to this praise. This Surging Idle Checklist may very well be the most valuable piece of information on the Internet. Thank you!Thanks so much to everyone who has helped to make this thread as great as it is. Following the tips and information here I've been able to resolve a number of trouble codes and return the car to a smooth idle. It did result in the replacement of just about every sensor, but it's all good now!
Yes I did just 67,85 I have a egr delete and 10 11You should probably start your own thread for this issue as it will draw more attention and get more replies.
Have you tried to pull codes?
Thanks I have gone throu it mostly everything new o2 sensorsAdding to this praise. This Surging Idle Checklist may very well be the most valuable piece of information on the Internet. Thank you!
Already bought a brand new 1 along with the screenAlso, Pcv. Costs $4 @ NAPA
Sometimes you can clean the O2 sensors instead of replacing them. I was getting a check engine light in my Jeep, so I was testing it w/ a voltmeter and a torch, but I guess I ended up burning the junk off and fixing the problem
Anyway, just an idea. However, since the O2's aren't used until open loop, they would only cause idle issues on a warm start, sitting at lights, etc right?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?