Hey guys I've got a serious ignition issue and at this point im just looking for other opinions
1995 Mustang GT 5.0 Bored and Stroked to 347, 5 Speed, Convertible California Car.
So this car has been an ongoing project, did the engine and have been having serious ignition gremlins since. Unknown if that car possessed them prior as it was bought and driven very little before the swap. The car now will not spark, at all. For the past few months it had been eating ignition coils and other ignition components and an ever lingering misfire while driving.
Currently on the Car
New Accel Ignition Coil
New MSD Distributor
New TFI
New Computer
New Capacitor on the back of the Coil
I have personally had both the injector harness and the ECU harness that runs inside the passengers fender to the TFI out of the car, opened and inspected every inch. There was some repairs to be made but nothing too major, I swapped the Distributor connector to the Pip as the old one was rather corroded and damaged as well as the coil connector as it was tough too. Used butt connector and shrink tube to make all my connections, (It has run since I swapped the connector some im confident in those connections) that was the only alteration I made in the harnesses, re-loomed and installed them back into the car.
Now for what I know thus far in the electrical system, I am an Electrician so have a pretty decent understanding of how it operates. I have good battery voltage in my injector harness coming to my PIP in the distributor, from there on out I am not getting any flash in the signal heading to my pip. I have tried two distributors, three pick ups and have had no change. Had a brand new distributor brought in and still get no flash back heading to the TFI. I have good continuity on the wire heading from PIP to TFI, but I am not able to get the PIP to send voltage on that wire, also in that harness I appear to have lost ground on Pins 3, 6, and 2? and have rampant inconsistent voltages on one of the Pins, cannot remember at this time. My question is does the pick up require a ground to fire, is it a transistor or how does it operate. I have introduced new grounds through Scotch Locks, they don't acquire any voltage which leads me to believe I don't have a short but it still won't fire. Good power to both sides of the coil, but again I cant get the one side to flash on and off to make the coil work.
A few other strange things I have encounter, when having the car hooked to a charger while testing to ensure damn good voltage, the Alternator got surprising hot, although the engine had never turned more than 100 times. Alternator is pulled and getting bench tested tomorrow.
When back probing the TFI with it plugged in and using a test light, either from the positive or negative terminals of the battery, when I probe pin 1 I believe, it will cause the whole computer to cycle like ive turned to key to run, the Light doesn't light up in either polarity, but it will cause the computer to reset every time.
All of our grounds exist, have low continuity to negative on the battery except for block to battery see's 70-80 Ohm's
This car has seen' in the past Two Months
5 Ignition Coils
3 Computers
2 Computer Chips (Tuned by Pro Car in Akron, Ohio)
1 Stock Computer Chip (Ran, very poor due to 347 Swap)
2 Dizzy's
3 Pick- Ups
2 TFI's
2 Radio Suppression Caps
3 Sets of Spark Plug Wires
2 Sets of Plugs
Everything on the car is new, Exactly 11 Kilometers on it. It was running great went and topped it up with Premium, pulled away from the pump and it flat lined. Nothing Since.
Every Ground the internet has told me about has been triple checked, I've studied the diagrams for hours on end, read endless forums and no one has had a problem quite like this one. Literally have had two Ford Engine Engineers look at this thing multiple times and we've got everyone stumped.
Any and all Questions let me hear them, if you've got something to suggest you can bet we've tried it or something similar but i'm all ears at this point.
Only Electrical modifications done to the vehicle since it's been brought home is a stereo installed, a Ford Performance coolant temp gauge, Cluster out of a 1995 as the original had only the speedo kind of working, not at all accurate and no other gauge activity and a set of halo headlights installed. It had run since those mods were done as well.
1995 Mustang GT 5.0 Bored and Stroked to 347, 5 Speed, Convertible California Car.
So this car has been an ongoing project, did the engine and have been having serious ignition gremlins since. Unknown if that car possessed them prior as it was bought and driven very little before the swap. The car now will not spark, at all. For the past few months it had been eating ignition coils and other ignition components and an ever lingering misfire while driving.
Currently on the Car
New Accel Ignition Coil
New MSD Distributor
New TFI
New Computer
New Capacitor on the back of the Coil
I have personally had both the injector harness and the ECU harness that runs inside the passengers fender to the TFI out of the car, opened and inspected every inch. There was some repairs to be made but nothing too major, I swapped the Distributor connector to the Pip as the old one was rather corroded and damaged as well as the coil connector as it was tough too. Used butt connector and shrink tube to make all my connections, (It has run since I swapped the connector some im confident in those connections) that was the only alteration I made in the harnesses, re-loomed and installed them back into the car.
Now for what I know thus far in the electrical system, I am an Electrician so have a pretty decent understanding of how it operates. I have good battery voltage in my injector harness coming to my PIP in the distributor, from there on out I am not getting any flash in the signal heading to my pip. I have tried two distributors, three pick ups and have had no change. Had a brand new distributor brought in and still get no flash back heading to the TFI. I have good continuity on the wire heading from PIP to TFI, but I am not able to get the PIP to send voltage on that wire, also in that harness I appear to have lost ground on Pins 3, 6, and 2? and have rampant inconsistent voltages on one of the Pins, cannot remember at this time. My question is does the pick up require a ground to fire, is it a transistor or how does it operate. I have introduced new grounds through Scotch Locks, they don't acquire any voltage which leads me to believe I don't have a short but it still won't fire. Good power to both sides of the coil, but again I cant get the one side to flash on and off to make the coil work.
A few other strange things I have encounter, when having the car hooked to a charger while testing to ensure damn good voltage, the Alternator got surprising hot, although the engine had never turned more than 100 times. Alternator is pulled and getting bench tested tomorrow.
When back probing the TFI with it plugged in and using a test light, either from the positive or negative terminals of the battery, when I probe pin 1 I believe, it will cause the whole computer to cycle like ive turned to key to run, the Light doesn't light up in either polarity, but it will cause the computer to reset every time.
All of our grounds exist, have low continuity to negative on the battery except for block to battery see's 70-80 Ohm's
This car has seen' in the past Two Months
5 Ignition Coils
3 Computers
2 Computer Chips (Tuned by Pro Car in Akron, Ohio)
1 Stock Computer Chip (Ran, very poor due to 347 Swap)
2 Dizzy's
3 Pick- Ups
2 TFI's
2 Radio Suppression Caps
3 Sets of Spark Plug Wires
2 Sets of Plugs
Everything on the car is new, Exactly 11 Kilometers on it. It was running great went and topped it up with Premium, pulled away from the pump and it flat lined. Nothing Since.
Every Ground the internet has told me about has been triple checked, I've studied the diagrams for hours on end, read endless forums and no one has had a problem quite like this one. Literally have had two Ford Engine Engineers look at this thing multiple times and we've got everyone stumped.
Any and all Questions let me hear them, if you've got something to suggest you can bet we've tried it or something similar but i'm all ears at this point.
Only Electrical modifications done to the vehicle since it's been brought home is a stereo installed, a Ford Performance coolant temp gauge, Cluster out of a 1995 as the original had only the speedo kind of working, not at all accurate and no other gauge activity and a set of halo headlights installed. It had run since those mods were done as well.
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