help with 60' times!!!

noslow5_0

New Member
Nov 7, 2003
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dallas tx.
ok... my autozone replacement struts/shocks with who knows how many miles on em along with my mac lowering springs just arent working when takin the car to the track... my best 60' time so far has been a 2.07 :notnice: with bfg drag radials...i heat the hell outta em', but nothin it just spins outta the hole... Ive also got some sort of double adjustable upper's and solid lowers which i dont think really need to be changed out... so how does lakewood 70/30 struts, 50/50 shocks and fms b springs sound?? Im hoping ride quality would be nicer then what it is now?? this is my daily driver... and the car is a 90'...
 
thats not a bad time, do uhave gears??? i would say gears and some nittos 555r dr's atleast in the back u need that traction, ive heard good things and bad things about ford suspension parts i cant really advise u on them
 
its not exactly a good time...
I cant advise you on suspension because I have no personal experience with any of the ones you are asking about, But i can tell you one thing. 4cyl springs KICK ASS! :D
how are you launching the car? And HOW long of a burnout are we talking about? you dont need to do super long burnouts to get the tires sticky.
 
below 2 is good. 2 is decent for street tires, although a good driver with decent street tires should be able to get under a 2sec short time. But with DRs you should be able to hit below a 2 unless your car doesnt have the power, you cant drive, or you have too much power with too little suspension. Plus a 2.07 is .14 you could take off the 1320' time if you could get it down to a 2 flat. and if he could get that down to even lower he would improve his elapsed times greatly.
 
yeah there is a lot that plays into it.... lower the 60 ft. time, and you take that much plus more off of the e.t.... so if i got it down to a 1.8 my new 1/8th mile time would be closer to a 8.6..... How are the street manners with those springs musclecar??
 
budget/ get 4cyl front springs and try just some over the counter 4cyl struts keep the lowering springs in rear with gt"v-8" shocks, if the over the counter struts dont work then put them back in box and take back say they ride like crap."they are like wal-mart they take anything back" then go buy some 90/10 struts"there just expensive"
 
what size dr are they? what tire pressure are you running? how long do you heat them up in the box? whats your pinion angle at?
the lowering springs are killing it it dont have enough front end travel. yes the front end greatly has an efect on the rear end.a set of 70/30 struts would help. 4cly springs in front and v8 springs in back. do you have caster camber plates? sometimes they limmit front end travel.
 
I cut a high 1.8 60ft with stock suspension on Nitto DR's, KYB struts/shocks, and the front swaybar removed. I put in a Spec III clutch and Megabite Jr. LCA's and my 60ft's went to a best of 1.98, found out later it was because my original UCA's bushings split thanks to the more solid lowers and hard grabbing clutch, and I now have Megabite uppers with poly bushings in the axels, maby I can come back with a better time. I'm looking to get some 90/10's in the front and 50/50 rear Lakewoods with some better springs in the front if not coil overs.
 
Wow. I'm amazed that nobody told you that the B springs will hurt ya more. You need drag springs and subframe connectors. Move the battery to the rear right. Take everything from Millhouse with a grain of salt. His car is freakish and I think he drives it well (actually a compliment). There is no point in getting the drag struts and shocks if you plan on putting a lowering spring on your car. Correct me if I'm wrong about the B springs. Anyway, its like getting a nitrous kit and adding 1200lbs of stereo equipment to your car. Know what I mean?