Hey everyone.... im new to this site

12sec67 · Jan 13, 2004

gp001 said:
Party pooper!!! What'ya mean he aint got 390 rwhp?

Don't listen to Blake, he doesn't even have a farm.

nice stang! but i'm with gp001 on this one.
get it dyno'd and let us know-

again, nice ride!

sixtyfive · Jan 13, 2004

heres a front of engine pic

gp001 · Jan 13, 2004

12sec67 said:
nice stang! but i'm with gp001 on this one.
get it dyno'd and let us know-

again, nice ride!

Whoaaa, wait a minute. Don't implicate me in this (I get in enough trouble around here on my own ). It was Blake who questioned it, not me. And, I called Blake a party pooper for doin so.

GaPonyFarm · Jan 13, 2004

Edbert said:
By they way what is that metal plate riveted to the fender support near the shock tower?

That's the Buck Tag... Stamped along the assembly line for particular options and installations. Not every assembly plant used them, and those that did used different methods and stamps.

GaPonyFarm · Jan 13, 2004

sixtyfive said:
yeah for what i got in my sig im just going off what i remember i gotta talk to the previous owner and find out some more

and i have heard before that its real hard to get 400 out of a 289 without addons but comparing to my other car in my mind it seems right and my dad said that it was about right, hopefully it dosent snow much more and i can go to the dyno and prove you wronge (crosses fingers)

i did however knock the socks off of a 93 GT 5.0 that is built to about 320 hoarse

And i do have a few more pics but they are **** cause i cant get far enough from the car to get a good picture in that garage

Depending on what the "lots of other stuff" is, you might be getting 390hp at the crank, but NOT at the rear wheels. On that car, you'll be losing about 20% through the drivetrain.

On your leaking problem, either get a cast housing or get a quality chrome housing. Either will work fine if you use a proper amout of RTV sealant (I prefer black for this, but blue works fine), and tighten the bolts at the same rate.

GET A FAN SHROUD! Its hard enough to keep a 289 cool with a shroud, but if you're bored .0060 over, it is critical to keep it cool. You have almost nothing for a cylinder wall, before you hit the water jacket.

Good looking car, you better be doing nice things for your dad...

SadbutTrue · Jan 14, 2004

sixtyfive... looking at your mods there is no way you could have 390 horses. To do that with a 289 requires aftermarket heads and/or forced induction. Now you may indeed have 390 horses, but if so there a few big mods missing from your siggy. Don't get me wrong, you have a sweet car. Ask the P.O. if he ever did any headwork to the car. A blower or nitrous setup should be relatively obvious (and i don't see any in the pic).

BTW - Gorgeous shade of red. GL on the dyno, i really wish this local speedshop by me would finish installing their dyno so I could take mine over. What size tires are those in back, they look beefy! As with Gapony, thank your dad.

sixtyfive · Jan 14, 2004

Thx guys... im having my dad get his friends number that knows about the engine mods more so hopefully i will have alot more info tommorow.

About the fan shroud im told that i basically dont need one because of the flex fan and i have a 180 degree thermostat or some better then stock kind that gets it to cool sooner and faster And if i did get a shroud it would have to fit the larger fan, ive also run this car for over 3 hours and not had it get near too hot while gettin on it a little bit.

Pakrat · Jan 14, 2004

Not really true. A stock fan and shroud will cool way better than a flex and no shroud. Without a shroud you are mostly blowing the hot air in your engine bay around with little or no direction, the shroud ensures that you are actually sucking the cold air from outside straight thru to cool everything off. The only efficient way to do this without a shroud would be to switch to an electric fan mounted to the radiator that would either suck or push the air thru in the same fashion. This can also free up some more horses but most opinions are split as to whether or not electric is in fact better than stock.

BTW, I still can not see the heater hoses from your front on pic, is anyone else noticing this? Can you get a close up so that all the spark plug wires are not in the way? I still suspect some unusual bypass may be a potential culprit for the leak. Do you know if your heater is working at all?

sixtyfive · Jan 14, 2004

I have no heater at all its completly gone... as for a bypass i do not know where that would be but ill check it out tonight once im outta school buddies got the digital cam so i cant take a pic tho but ill check it out

Would i gain hoarsepower having a fan shroud from the engine being cooler?

ima talk to my dads friend anyways tonight and see what he has to say about engine specs and stuff.

Pakrat · Jan 14, 2004

sixtyfive said:
I have no heater at all its completly gone... as for a bypass i do not know where that would be but ill check it out tonight once im outta school buddies got the digital cam so i cant take a pic tho but ill check it out

Would i gain hoarsepower having a fan shroud from the engine being cooler?

ima talk to my dads friend anyways tonight and see what he has to say about engine specs and stuff.

Here, I'll post up a pic of my stock looking engine bay. See the two red hoses that go from the housing to the firewall? Those are the heater hoses, they basically just route the already hot water thru the heater box so the fan can blow the heat into the passenger compartment. It then cycles right back to the radiator. Mustang heater cores are notorious for springing leaks and since now a days most folks only drive their cars in nice weather, many have over the years yanked their bad heaters and run a bypass. The bypass simply elimintes both hoses going in and out of the firewall and replaces them with a 6 inch piece of hose that connects from the topconnection directly to the bottom connection. As you'll notice, below your big hose is actually a small 3" l shaped factory bypass set up and this simply creates another one. Because I can not see a bypass in place of your missing heater hoses, I am theorizing that perhaps the previous owner just stuck some plugs into the holes or something like that, and that cvould be the source of your leak.

BTW, no, you would not necessarily appreciate any horsepower gains from the shroud, only an electric fan set up. I know you have not had any issues yet, but traffic lights in August with a .060 bore is asking for trouble in my opinion and you will want to take advantage of every cooling trick in the book you can, trust us.

1320stang · Jan 14, 2004

Pakrat said:
Geez, I just noticed something lese too. Either I'm blind or it is the angle, but I don't see any heater hoses or a by pass in it's place. Is it possible that a PO blocked it off and that is what is leaking? Can you get us a front on shot of it?

Well, the connection to the water pump is staring right at you, has a black rubber cap and a hose clamp. The car probably has a rotted out heater core. He might want to pull back the carpet in the passenger front floorboard and see if there is any rot.

It's a nice car, has chromed '68 Styled Steel wheels on it. But it probably doesn't have the 390 RWHP that he thinks it does. I'm guessing it's in the 225-275 range at the rear wheels at most, not knowing the cam that's in it.

sixtyfive · Jan 14, 2004

yeah the wheels are off of a torino actually but they are still straight.... as for the tire size im gonna go check on the car cause its in my grandmas garage tonight so ill write that down for whoever wanted to know that

As for the heater core it sat up inside of a little box with a door you could actually open up under the dash kinda... dont know if this was just in 65's or what but the area is empty and you can see where it sent the heated air through to the heater vents that arent there any more ... it prolly had rotted out n he just pitched it... i wouldnt dream of driving this car in bad weather anyways so **** who needs a heater

65shlbycln · Jan 14, 2004

390rwhp

1320stang · Jan 14, 2004

I've got a 289 with a Solid Roller cam, had '69 351W heads on it with a tunnel ram and dual 660's, aluminum rods, 12.7:1 pop ups. Put it into a 2900# '69 Mach I with ladder bars, coil overs, 5.67 gears and 30x9 slicks. It ran 11.08@119 and the old Moroso slide rule figured that was about 425 RWHP. I'm just saying you don't have the parts to have 390RWHP, not saying it can't be done. My '65 coupe is an A code coupe (5th digit in Vin is an A) which translates to a 225hp 4 bbl 289. I removed a bunch of weight, tuned it up real good, had a Holley 600 on it, 3.00 rear. It fell awesome launching it on the street, I thought I had a 13 or 14 second car. First pass at the track yeilded a mid 16, lowest I got was a 15.80 something. The '69 was a friend of mine's car, the motor is mine, he drove it to that 11.08, fastest I ever went was a 11.15, here's a pic on an 11.0 pass

sixtyfive · Jan 14, 2004

with reducing the weight do you think it would be much less then a smaller 65?

nearest dyno i know of is over an hour away, if i find one closer it would be possible tho

Dont say it cant be done

more info whenever i talk to the guy

sixtyfive · May 16, 2007

first of all this thread was from a LONG ASS TIME AGO when i did not know much about cars! now i know more and i did not have near the horsepower i claimed, sorry i forgot to put pictures up back then but here is a couple after my new paint / engine

now i have about 416 hp at the flywheel with my new 347
that old 289 fell on its face after first gear

Big_B · May 16, 2007

Wow cool thread. Looks like you have done a lot of work in the last three years. Nice job.

sixtyfive · May 17, 2007

actually this past 2 years ive just been doin piddly little things here and there, right now im replacing my fuel sending unit because it is not working right, its always something

Hey everyone.... im new to this site

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