I'm back, changed the rear main seal, turns out it wasn't leaking... I fixed my leaky turbo drain as well as my dipstick. I take the car for a lil test drive around the airport annnnd......
IM STILL PUKING OIL.
Where is it coming from? The rear main cap and probably the oil pan
I took my UV light, shined it down by the rear main seal, the oil path follows the oil pan gasket and it looks like the rear main bearing cap. I made a post on the turbo Ford Facebook group and someone mentioned that I could have forgotten to put a smear of rtv on the rear main cap were the cap meets the block and it could be seeping through, wich explains why im getting so much oul so fast, im getting about 1 quart every 30 minutes
Attached is a screenshot of the leak, i got a UV light shining at the seal, so the oil looks white
(I know its a bad picture, im using an old phone now)
What say you guys? Im assuming nows the time to drop the oil pan, change that gasket, and possibly check my main cap right? No harm in doing it either, ill have fresh gaskets and stuff.
Only part im concerned about is how to drop the pan now that the engine is in the car, wich way would be best?
IM STILL PUKING OIL.
Where is it coming from? The rear main cap and probably the oil pan
I took my UV light, shined it down by the rear main seal, the oil path follows the oil pan gasket and it looks like the rear main bearing cap. I made a post on the turbo Ford Facebook group and someone mentioned that I could have forgotten to put a smear of rtv on the rear main cap were the cap meets the block and it could be seeping through, wich explains why im getting so much oul so fast, im getting about 1 quart every 30 minutes
Attached is a screenshot of the leak, i got a UV light shining at the seal, so the oil looks white
(I know its a bad picture, im using an old phone now)
What say you guys? Im assuming nows the time to drop the oil pan, change that gasket, and possibly check my main cap right? No harm in doing it either, ill have fresh gaskets and stuff.
Only part im concerned about is how to drop the pan now that the engine is in the car, wich way would be best?
My suspicion is that maybe you're getting a lot of blow-by.
The crank case pressure is exceeding the ability of the seal.
The crank case pressure is exceeding the ability of the seal.
I would agree with you, but the rear main seal was not leaking when i changed it, so i dont believe i have blow-by, and if i do, i dont think its enough
Just for
My thought process is that if you wanted to install something like this just to [test and remove], you could easily install the sensor into a sacrificial oil cap and not have to change or "T in" to anything.
Measuring crank case pressure
I'm surprised how much talk there has been about PCV and crank case ventilation but I've never actually seen any logs with crank case pressure readings. There are a couple of things I think would be interesting to measure such as the amount of pressure at idle and WOT with various crank case...
My thought process is that if you wanted to install something like this just to [test and remove], you could easily install the sensor into a sacrificial oil cap and not have to change or "T in" to anything.
Hey guys! I got good news!
I got my oil leak fixed, turned out there was a bit of overspray from painting the engine that I couldn't see on the sealing surface of the rear main seal, so! I cleaned it all off, and cleaned up the rear main cap as well, changed the oil pan gasket and put the whole motor back in the car. and i had no leaks!
well... my dipstick leaked, but i did what @evintho recommended and it stopped (mostly) I need to do a better job and actually clean that area out before sealing.
I encountered an issue were the car would lurch right before making boost, turned out that my Throttle position sensor would flip to negative 25% and retard my timing by about 15 degrees temporarily. I fixed that issue by taking my old TPS from the n/a motor and putting it on my turbo engine.
right now its all smooth sailing! it runs great and I'm getting everything dialed in with my Pimp ECU.
I still need to change my turbo drain to the AN style from stinger.
I got two oil leaks on the top end of my motor. one is almost definitely my valve cover, and the second is my turbo feed line, I think my gaskets leaking or I cracked my cheap AN fitting.
all in all, I'm just happy to drive my car again. its definitely faster, and its definitely worth it. I'm going to go to Jays muffler in Novato and get the rest of my exhaust made up
Incase you guys are still wondering if I'm going to try to keep this car legal, and take it to the state referee. I have all the smog components on still, the only thing I can see me getting crap about is my intercooler kit, cam, blow off valve, catch can, and exhaust size. everything else is either OEM or just extremely pretty and new looking.
I figure, take it to the state ref, if i pass? hallelujah! if It flunks, ill try to fix what they want to a reasonable level. bottom of the line, if they just say no entirely, then ill just continue with my "register it in another state" idea knowing I tried.
I got my oil leak fixed, turned out there was a bit of overspray from painting the engine that I couldn't see on the sealing surface of the rear main seal, so! I cleaned it all off, and cleaned up the rear main cap as well, changed the oil pan gasket and put the whole motor back in the car. and i had no leaks!
well... my dipstick leaked, but i did what @evintho recommended and it stopped (mostly) I need to do a better job and actually clean that area out before sealing.
I encountered an issue were the car would lurch right before making boost, turned out that my Throttle position sensor would flip to negative 25% and retard my timing by about 15 degrees temporarily. I fixed that issue by taking my old TPS from the n/a motor and putting it on my turbo engine.
right now its all smooth sailing! it runs great and I'm getting everything dialed in with my Pimp ECU.
I still need to change my turbo drain to the AN style from stinger.
I got two oil leaks on the top end of my motor. one is almost definitely my valve cover, and the second is my turbo feed line, I think my gaskets leaking or I cracked my cheap AN fitting.
all in all, I'm just happy to drive my car again. its definitely faster, and its definitely worth it. I'm going to go to Jays muffler in Novato and get the rest of my exhaust made up
Incase you guys are still wondering if I'm going to try to keep this car legal, and take it to the state referee. I have all the smog components on still, the only thing I can see me getting crap about is my intercooler kit, cam, blow off valve, catch can, and exhaust size. everything else is either OEM or just extremely pretty and new looking.
I figure, take it to the state ref, if i pass? hallelujah! if It flunks, ill try to fix what they want to a reasonable level. bottom of the line, if they just say no entirely, then ill just continue with my "register it in another state" idea knowing I tried.
I could see a SMOG station person flagging the BOV, Catch Can and maybe the exhaust just because those are pretty readily visable. I know my SMOG guy had a flashlight out looking down at the headers asking me about them (they are CARB legal), but they poked around more than i was expecting.
yea, i cant find any carb compliant parts at all, what iv done is swap from a n/a motor to a turbo motor, and on top of that, no carb compliant parts
got it! so... to get me one of those golden tickets, ill need to go borrow some pipe from AutoZone and make a "smog kit"
what did you do for the catch can? mine currently vents to atmosphere, the oem pcv dosent work.
also! what did you do for your charcoal canister? how did you hook it up after changing throttle bodies?
thanks for letting me know! i still have all my parts, just not sure how to use them, also! have you seen the news about that smog law sb712? its supposed to exempt cars 35 years and older from needing to be smogged, and i think its actualy passing!
guys, i fixed some stuff! I had a nasty misfire for the longest time, and it turned out to be an loose injector clip. I took it for a rip and shot fire balls out on the highway! im ASSuming, now that I fixed my issues, my cars running rich.... hence the fire ball and the loud afterfire when I'm mashing down on the throttle
GUYS
I drag raced the turbo 2.3 swapped mustang last night at Sonoma Raceway!!!
I ran a whopping 17.21 1/4 mile at 83 miles an hour, with a reaction time of .636 (I know I'm slow at the light, but consistently slow!)
a whopping improvement from the N/A 2.3 which ran 20.15 1/4 mile, at 65 miles an hour!
i do think the next big project with this car will be suspension, and a rear end. im a rocket ship after 60, but slower than a snail on the way to 60, and after driving my 83 celica around, wich feels like the same car, i realized my mustangs suspension is kaput! wich is fine, because i wanted to go crazy with upgrades and evreything!
I drag raced the turbo 2.3 swapped mustang last night at Sonoma Raceway!!!
I ran a whopping 17.21 1/4 mile at 83 miles an hour, with a reaction time of .636 (I know I'm slow at the light, but consistently slow!)
a whopping improvement from the N/A 2.3 which ran 20.15 1/4 mile, at 65 miles an hour!
i do think the next big project with this car will be suspension, and a rear end. im a rocket ship after 60, but slower than a snail on the way to 60, and after driving my 83 celica around, wich feels like the same car, i realized my mustangs suspension is kaput! wich is fine, because i wanted to go crazy with upgrades and evreything!
American canyon is right up hwy 29! Youd think its vallejo if you didnt see any signs, but as soon as your in American canyon, your out, and in napa already. And yea! My dads been taking me to wensday night drags for a while, and now iv been racing on my own. Its a fun track, i just wish there wasent as much corperate backlash tward the event. Its one of those "we either lose or barely break even" events