yuck, i have no clue what the CEL is, and couldent i say its from a thunder bird instead of a mekur? since its the same family and it came turbo charged?
Hey whats up! More 2.3 power needed
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evintho
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
I'm sorry.....my bad! Yes, you can tell them it's from an '88 Turbo Coupe! I was thinking of my '89 Mustang. I couldn't say 88TC because that's older than my '89. My only option was '89 Merkur.
CEL = Check Engine Light. I had to make my own 'cause of the custom gauge cluster.
ahhh okay thanks, and how do i tell if my CEL works... i have never seen it come on besides when i turn the car to the on possition and it lights up for a second or two then shuts off when its running and do i need to have the information lights working too? gas light washer fluid etc?I'm sorry.....my bad! Yes, you can tell them it's from an '88 Turbo Coupe! I was thinking of my '89 Mustang. I couldn't say 88TC because that's older than my '89. My only option was '89 Merkur.
CEL = Check Engine Light. I had to make my own 'cause of the custom gauge cluster.
Smog Inspections - California DMV
Smog inspections are required when you register or renew registration for a vehicle in California, but there are some exceptions.
www.dmv.ca.gov
your CEL comes on when the key is turned to the on or run position without starting the car, this will 'test' the 'trouble lights' aka 'warning lights', some light up briefly some stay on until the engine is started.
evintho
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
The General is right. All your idiot lights should work (including the CEL) if they're hooked up properly. The only wiring change you'll need to make for the swap is the four VAM wires I told you about before.
ahh okay, I'm more confident now haha, how do they check if your CEL works? i also cant find a lot of info on motor swaps
i also still need the vam conecter, and i need to figure out how to wire it in when i get it
i also still need the vam conecter, and i need to figure out how to wire it in when i get it
I may have that VAM connector, when I got that stuff off that svo turbo car I got some of the air box and intercooler electronics, one has a connector. I'll look tomorrow morning in the storage locker.
Should a piston ring set for an 1988 turbo 2.3 be $122? Or should i look else were, aswell as how much should a new set of rod bearings and main bearings cost?
evintho
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Yeah.......inflation sucks!
I've used these guys several times. Quality stuff and decent prices. Rings, bearings and full gasket set..........
www.northernautoparts.com
I've used these guys several times. Quality stuff and decent prices. Rings, bearings and full gasket set..........
Ford 2.3L Turbo 7/16/1986-1988 Engine Re-Ring Kit from Northern Auto Parts
Ford 2.3L Turbo 7/16/1986-1988 Engine Re-Ring Kit
evintho
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Federal Mogul and Sealed Power have been around since the beginning of time. Very common brands. I used Northern's re-ring kit in my 5.0 build and am very pleased with it.
www.northernautoparts.com
Ford 302 1985-1993 Car HO W/Roller Cam Re-Ring Engine Kit from Northern Auto Parts
Ford 302 1985-1993 Car HO W/Roller Cam Re-Ring Engine Kit
sweet, im in a bit of a dilemma, i want to buy the ring kit online, but i already had the guy at the shop measure and source the piston rings (he wants to charge $122 for just rings) i know he has to make money but its gonna be more than im looking to spend.
I'd go with what he gets, something goes wrong it could be on you, besides he (supposedly) know what he's doing and maybe he has had good luck with what he gets.
JMO
JMO
evintho
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
$122 for rings isn't a horrible price. They're $95 if you buy 'em separately at AutoZone......
When you buy an entire kit it's generally cheaper.
Here's main and rod bearings at AZ......
When you buy an entire kit it's generally cheaper.
Here's main and rod bearings at AZ......
true true, but I am a kid who is trying to save, either way ill probably just go with whatever comes first.
Another thing!
I'm going to take the head in to get looked at, check out the seats and stuff. I stripped it all the way down to just head, cam bearings, and valve guides and the exhaust valves and intake valves had a hell of a lot of carbon built up, I took a wire wheel to it and got about 98% of it off making sure to stay away from the seat due to fear of making a costly mistake. I wanted to do the same to the combustion chamber but I am worried I'm going to mess somthing up somehow so I'm goin to hold off a little bit again in fear of ruining the head-block mating surface until I get some advice from someone whos done this before.
lastly I am considering "porting" my head, or at least gasket matching/ port matched but I have a slight fear its going to cost a little too much. if its a "reasonable price" I most likely will get it done just because I'll never have a better chance than now. Before i do go in and question the guy about it, any advice from you folks about porting or polishing or somthing?
P.S.
how can i check for cracks in the head without Magnafluxing it? can I flip and fill the combustion chamber with water(or oil) to see if it seals? not sure if that's proper or not, just saw some Indian guys in the internet do that for some reason
P.P.S.
Evintho, what kind of performance "upgrades" do you have again? Asking because I was thinking about hopping up my motor with some Big R stuff like their stage one T3 upgrade and their Ranger X performance cam ( I messaged them and they said I might be able to get away with smog with the Ranger X cam with California smog standards, worst comes to worse I'll just put a stock cam in once every two years )
P.P.P.S.
what turbo do I have? IHI or T3? and which is better? id rather buy a t3 because its a bit cheaper than the rebuilt IHI Turbo (pricing is entirely based off big R motorsports, im a little too tight on fund for Boport or Stinger stuff)
Another thing!
I'm going to take the head in to get looked at, check out the seats and stuff. I stripped it all the way down to just head, cam bearings, and valve guides and the exhaust valves and intake valves had a hell of a lot of carbon built up, I took a wire wheel to it and got about 98% of it off making sure to stay away from the seat due to fear of making a costly mistake. I wanted to do the same to the combustion chamber but I am worried I'm going to mess somthing up somehow so I'm goin to hold off a little bit again in fear of ruining the head-block mating surface until I get some advice from someone whos done this before.
lastly I am considering "porting" my head, or at least gasket matching/ port matched but I have a slight fear its going to cost a little too much. if its a "reasonable price" I most likely will get it done just because I'll never have a better chance than now. Before i do go in and question the guy about it, any advice from you folks about porting or polishing or somthing?
P.S.
how can i check for cracks in the head without Magnafluxing it? can I flip and fill the combustion chamber with water(or oil) to see if it seals? not sure if that's proper or not, just saw some Indian guys in the internet do that for some reason
P.P.S.
Evintho, what kind of performance "upgrades" do you have again? Asking because I was thinking about hopping up my motor with some Big R stuff like their stage one T3 upgrade and their Ranger X performance cam ( I messaged them and they said I might be able to get away with smog with the Ranger X cam with California smog standards, worst comes to worse I'll just put a stock cam in once every two years )
P.P.P.S.
what turbo do I have? IHI or T3? and which is better? id rather buy a t3 because its a bit cheaper than the rebuilt IHI Turbo (pricing is entirely based off big R motorsports, im a little too tight on fund for Boport or Stinger stuff)
Last edited:
manicmechanic007
5 Year Member
You do not really need to port the head with a turbo
You can check the valve job yourself with an assembled head using brakleen or similar to see if the valves are sealed
Those old turbo 2.3s used to be hard on exhaust valves (burnt or the metal mites)
You will do no damage with a wire wheel cleaning the carbon from the combustion chamber
Good luck
I would just buy quality sealed power or federal mogul rings online (ebay) and shop around for the best price once you have a part number
You can check the valve job yourself with an assembled head using brakleen or similar to see if the valves are sealed
Those old turbo 2.3s used to be hard on exhaust valves (burnt or the metal mites)
You will do no damage with a wire wheel cleaning the carbon from the combustion chamber
Good luck
I would just buy quality sealed power or federal mogul rings online (ebay) and shop around for the best price once you have a part number
manicmechanic007
5 Year Member
If strapped for cash, do not buy a new turbo on a whim
Make sure yours is toast (bearing clearance) et al. other problems first
Make sure yours is toast (bearing clearance) et al. other problems first
evintho
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
What he said ^^^!
I bought my shortblock from MDS Racing in Texas so it's built. .030 over, Wiseco pistons, Crower rodsI balanced/blueprinted, etc. Got my head from BoPort (before he was famous) so I got it for cheap. It's ported/polished w/ bigger valves, bronze guides, etc. I'm running a stock T3 and a Ranger roller cam, Bob's log exhaust manifold, gutted/rotated upper and ported lower intake with full 3" exhaust. My butt dyno says well north of 300 hp.
With that said, the first thing you should do is have your head magged! It's not that expensive. Other than a turbo, headwork is the key to performance with these motors. You don't wanna sink money into a casting that's junk! You have an IHI turbo. If you do go to a new turbo, opt for a T3. Chip's prices for the Stage 1 T3 upgrade look pretty good!
I bought my shortblock from MDS Racing in Texas so it's built. .030 over, Wiseco pistons, Crower rodsI balanced/blueprinted, etc. Got my head from BoPort (before he was famous) so I got it for cheap. It's ported/polished w/ bigger valves, bronze guides, etc. I'm running a stock T3 and a Ranger roller cam, Bob's log exhaust manifold, gutted/rotated upper and ported lower intake with full 3" exhaust. My butt dyno says well north of 300 hp.
With that said, the first thing you should do is have your head magged! It's not that expensive. Other than a turbo, headwork is the key to performance with these motors. You don't wanna sink money into a casting that's junk! You have an IHI turbo. If you do go to a new turbo, opt for a T3. Chip's prices for the Stage 1 T3 upgrade look pretty good!
SWEET, thanks for the advice, im going to take the head down to the machine shop right now and get it worked on. Im trying to crack open thr turbo right now, ill send you pictures and stuff in about an hour!
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