Hey whats up! More 2.3 power needed

[Piranahbite]

well guys, im still doin that ecu swap, i started on saturday, got the ecu wiring done, and now im on to puttin my guages in, and that parts holding me up, more wiring to do, wiring power, keyed power, then switched power to dim the new guages, and then ground. the hard part is going to be routing my boost gauges line, im not sure were to go through the fire wall, weather just drill a hole and gromet it, or do i try to go through a body gromet? but are there any i can go through on the drivers side? I'm a lil overwhelmed by this part of the project, but ill get it, i just need to apply myself better. hardest part is installing the pillar guages and then the wiring for em. I GOT THIS

As for the ecu and getting the car running? i need to verrify timing and set up my injectors, super simple with the instructions that are provided. i should have it running either in the next couple hours, or Saturday night. the software is super nice! i got to calibrate all my sensors, and its super rewarding to see everything working! AFR gauge, TPS, coolant sensor, all that fun stuff! and now i get to eliminate the VAM and old MAP sensor! the PIMPXS has the map sensor built in, and without the VAM I can hook up my blow off valve and have some more new noise! once everything is running and reliable I'm going to take it to Novato to jays muffler and get an exhaust put on.

not to get personal, but work and school have been kicking my butt, super dense homework projects, and iv done like 2 and soon to be three engine changes at work ( changing IO-360's on Cessna 172's) so, although I'm learning about engines and fuel systems, its hard for me to continue to go home and then practice more about the same thing on my car without feeling like I'm doing homework, so iv slowed down and just do a lil somthing here and there till its all done!



AFR gauge is red because engine not running and I hadn't calibrated it yet

 

[Noobz347]

Dude... Take your time and don't burn yourself out. Sometimes it's good to let it rattle around in your noggin a few extra days, anyhow.

 

[Piranahbite]

Dude... Take your time and don't burn yourself out. Sometimes it's good to let it rattle around in your noggin a few extra days, anyhow.

Totaly will, i moved to workin on just the computer, i got it running! Sounds great, i had to adjust timing to run 91, because thets the highest octane around me, now i gotta figure out my AFR, i think all the smoke coming out of my exhaust isnt oil.... I think its un burnt fuel.. afr reads 10.5-1 and under a lil throttle it's either worse or at 11.2-1 i changed the fuel map at idle, and i no longer get smoke, untill i move into a rpm that hasnt been tuned yet and is still rich

 

[Piranahbite]

got an update! so, i never finished the guages, kinda put em on hold, my motorcycle that iv been comuting with started to take a dump so i focused on getting the car running rather than looking nice. iv been using the afr guage through a laptop rather than a guage, i got the car dialed to a point were its never lean, either running perfect or rich,

im running into a scary issue when making boost, uppon making boost for more than a couple seconds, the car blows out a smoke screen of oil, still runs great, no change in rpm or oil pressure, just... stinks and scares me. its done this a couple times, not too sure whats causing it, and now i have a larger than normal oil leak, i was informed if i have too much oil in the car, wich i dont, that if the pcv fails the oil will try to escape any way it can, through the dip stick, rear main, valve cover, anywere.

I'v widdled it down to a few possible causes, at least for the oil blowing out the exhaust during boost, ill diagnose these in this order and replace in this order that way im not blowing tons of money on a new turbo to fix the issue with a pcv valve


1. PCV valve: im using the one from the N/A motor, iv been recommended the Motocraft EV127A because its (allegedly) meant for the turbo 2.3 and its supposevly beter than the one i got

2. Valve stem seals: when i sent the head to get assembled, i have no clue what valve stem seals were installed, Chip from big R Recommends i get the blue viton valve stem seals, something about them being meant for boost unlike the felpro units,

3. The Tubocharger: i could have blown out a seal when i blew the head gasket, or something related to too much oil going into the turbo, im using the IHI feed and drain, no restrictors or anything,

the oil can only enter the exhaust via those three devices aside from the headgasket wich i just replaced. so im hoping it one of those and im fixing it before somthing terrible happens like a blown out main seal

 

[Noobz347]

1. PCV valve: im using the one from the N/A motor, iv been recommended the Motocraft EV127A because its (allegedly) meant for the turbo 2.3 and its supposevly beter than the one i got

You could also look into [increasing] the size/volume of your PCV system. If you discover oil in your intake at or near your PCV source then you can [slow] that airflow down by doubling the size of your system. Essentially, you'd add another route with valve and catch can to share the load.


This would be after eliminating those things you listed that could have broke from 'the incident'.

 

[Piranahbite]

You could also look into [increasing] the size/volume of your PCV system. If you discover oil in your intake at or near your PCV source then you can [slow] that airflow down by doubling the size of your system. Essentially, you'd add another route with valve and catch can to share the load.


This would be after eliminating those things you listed that could have broke from 'the incident'.

ooo, well currently im using one singular hose, i think its like 3/4" ID and 1/2" ID not too sure, iv seen units that split into 2 hoses, you think that would be better?

and the incident haha the head gasket? thats definitely the incident hahaha



also, i just realized its almost time for my break in oil change, im going to get some UV dye and put it in the oil to see were the big leak is coming from and rectify it. crossing my fingers its not the rear main

 

[Piranahbite]

Update!

Well, for those of you following along. I got some bad news. Installed the new pcv valve, and new turbo oil drain gaskets. Start the car up, and it runs like a champ, duh, go for a test drive, no leaks, i go for a longer test drive, hit boost, annnnnnnd wonmp wonmp. As soon as i let off and i get more than 15hg of vacuum, a cloud of oil out the exhaust. Big bummer.


But, it consistently happens after i let off, and not during boost or low vaccum conditions. So, im assuming my PCV valve works, and I'm sucking oil into the cylinders via the valve stem seals since they are probably not the right ones. Shotty machine shop probly installed N/A valve stem seals.

And if the problem is still not fixed, its onto the turbo, maybe i blew out the seals, im hoping i didnt since it's brand new. And from then its piston rings. And after that im putting the N/A motor back in because i miss driving my car

And, I'm still puking oil from the engine. And worse, it seems to be coming from either my rear main, or my oil pan gasket (still). I'm quite pissed because it's a brand new engine, and I reused a bad pcv valve.
Ill never make that mistake again.

I haven't confirmed 100% were the oils coming from, but I'm going to get some UV dye and check for it since its time for an oil change anyway. It seems to only leak when the vehicle is in motion or shortly after which tells me either rear main seal, or oil pan gasket got pushed out when i blew boost into the crank case.

And then of course, I'm still dealing with a possible turbo drain leak STILL. I crushed my drain a little freeing up the B-nut, and i think it's leaking from there now. Ill know for sure with the uv dye. Im thinking of either buying a new good used drain, or the an line from stinger performance, im just not sure if it will work with my internal waste gate.


Once all this stuff is figured out, i can finish wiring up my guages. And FINALY put my heater back in and finish the project by getting an exhaust installed

 

[Noobz347]

Can you post an image showing your current PCV system the best you can?

Be sure to include any oil catcher/separators.

You want a PCV system to pickup the "lazy" crank case vapors. These have had time for the oil droplets to fall while fast moving vapors will be saturated.

Also:

Blow-off valve? What is responsible for tuning this thing?


At least nothing blew up this time. PROGRESS!

 

[Piranahbite]

Can you post an image showing your current PCV system the best you can?

Be sure to include any oil catcher/separators.

You want a PCV system to pickup the "lazy" crank case vapors. These have had time for the oil droplets to fall while fast moving vapors will be saturated.

Also:

Blow-off valve? What is responsible for tuning this thing?


At least nothing blew up this time. PROGRESS!

Yes! Ill post a pic of the pcv when I'm home from work.

I have 3 components reguarding boost, i have an internal wastegate on my turbo, a seperate controller for it, and although its not for regulating boost, i have a blow off valve about 2 feet from my turbo on my intercooler inlet pipe

And then for tuning, i successfully installed that PimpXS ecu, im quite proud of it. I was setting up my fuel map, dialing in my AFR so im not running lean or too rich, im aiming for 13.5:1 all around.... So, as far as tuning, im doing it all by myself

 

[Piranahbite]

@Noobz347 heres pictures of the pcv system. Cant get the whole thing in one shot, but i got all the parts were its connected. I used hose clamps to secure everything since everythings friction fit.

The valve cover breather is plugged because it would blow all over my fire wall, im not sure were to rout it, but i dont want it blowing into my intake right? Since that would pressurize the head?

 

[Piranahbite]

Guys. I'm back. I'm pumped to resume working on my car! I'm going to install a ventilated catch can and see if that helps my pcv problem. I think even if it's not the fix, it should be a good have as cheap insurance. I'm also going to buy a braided AN turbo drain line from stinger, I'm having too many issues with my current one I'm thinking those two parts should fix my oil leaks. and of course, ill finally be able to tell if my oil pan gasket and rear main are leaking or just getting oil forced past em under high boost.

i know its hard to tell, but i think theres a chance because the car only leaks oil under boost, and only blows smoke under high vaccum

 

[Piranahbite]

Unless it is a 78 Civic with a carburetor, do not pick fights with a Honda
Your 87 2.3 had 90 Horsepower brand new and hatches are heavy
Turbocharge it when you can afford it
4 Hi Po 289 rods and some forged pistons (yes Turbo Coupes and SVO's used Boss 302 rods)(which are 289 hi po rods)
Save up for it
Then you might be able to out and around a few Hondas

The mustang is now Angry. Swapped, Cammed, Turbo'ed, and pissed the f*** off. thank you for the advice.

 

[manicmechanic007]

All there is in that factory PCV baffle is a screen IIRR
Those were inadequate at best
Just replace both the rear main and pan gasket
How much boost are you running?
How much blowby you got?
Install a drag racing crank evac system with a one way valve?

 

[Piranahbite]

happy hollidays guys! I got good news! I fixed my exhaust smoke issue by installing a catch can! Im excited and happy! I got a new t3 oil drain so i can fix my oil leak, and then i think im golden!

 

[evintho]

Outstanding! I knew you'd get it figured out! Looking at the first pic, might I suggest adding the factory inner and outer timing cover to the front of the motor. It'll keep all the road debris out of there. You can kinda see mine here. I cut the top circle section off to expose the Racer Walsh cam gear........

Here's the only other pic I have showing the timing cover...........

 

[Piranahbite]

guys, iv got bad news, but good bad news.
I got bored and decided to triple check all my oil leaks, make sure its just the dipstick and the turbo drain, that need to be delt with, and i discovered the top half of my rear main seal has been pushed out, and is leaking. I guess i finally jacked up the car high enough to crawl under and get a good view. im pretty sure it got pushed out back in September when I blew the head gasket, I had essentially no pcv installed OEM one had failed wich allowed the crank case to be pressurized.

either this weekend or next weekend I'm going to reangle some buddies to help me change the rear main seal and other parts. they should all be here by the weekend and ill be wrapping up this problem.


anyone have any advice on how to seal up the dipstick base? mine has oil leaking from it, and i was thinking just pit a lil bit of high temp rt and make sure its pushed in all the way.

 

[85GTStangGuy]

.... and make sure its pushed in all the way.

Use an open end wrench, or better yet, a flare nut wrench, that just fits over the dipstick tube and also sits nicely on the shoulder of the tube (where it meets the block). You can tap on the wrench to help seat the tube.

No idea about the rtv, but it doesn't sound like a bad idea. Or maybe some thread sealant at the dipstick tube/block interface.

 

[Piranahbite]

Use an open end wrench, or better yet, a flare nut wrench, that just fits over the dipstick tube and also sits nicely on the shoulder of the tube (where it meets the block). You can tap on the wrench to help seat the tube.

No idea about the rtv, but it doesn't sound like a bad idea. Or maybe some thread sealant at the dipstick tube/block interface.

ok! thanks for the tip! ill tap that puppy in!

 

[evintho]

IIRC, I had the same problem on my 2.3T. Put a punch inside the base of the dipstick tube and tap the punch, opening up the OD just a tad. Make sure all surfaces are clean then smear a film of Loctite 518 Flange Sealant on the tube.........

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NCB2096059?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Catch-All&campaign_id=6478877959&adgroup_id=79272987338&adtype=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQiAqL28BhCrARIsACYJvkfHGh4JpBWbbu5wIBGif24ST-xpHB2GU_QZXnaXeXz_O0Fwjb9qibUaAkXAEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1

Then use 85GTStangGuy's method to firmly tap the tube into the block. It'll never leak again!

 

[Piranahbite]

IIRC, I had the same problem on my 2.3T. Put a punch inside the base of the dipstick tube and tap the punch, opening up the OD just a tad. Make sure all surfaces are clean then smear a film of Loctite 518 Flange Sealant on the tube.........

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NCB2096059?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Catch-All&campaign_id=6478877959&adgroup_id=79272987338&adtype=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQiAqL28BhCrARIsACYJvkfHGh4JpBWbbu5wIBGif24ST-xpHB2GU_QZXnaXeXz_O0Fwjb9qibUaAkXAEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1

Then use 85GTStangGuy's method to firmly tap the tube into the block. It'll never leak again!

sweet! will do! i have some of that loctite at my work! ill probly do it all after work one day.

also, happen to have a rear main seal you recomend? im looking at this felpro seal but iv always used this one from MHALE not sure wich ones better