Yea, I think it will not go into the koer sequence without dealing with that code 67,
I'm Back Into The Mustang Scene With A Rescue Project.
- Thread starter JeffC
- Start date
So my car has 1.0 amp leakage somewhere. I pulled the negative terminal and tested with my meter. I pulled all the fuses and tested. Still at 1.0.
I found the visor light has not been turning off. Fixed that and tested again. Still 1.0 leaking.
Could the butt connectors that were used on a lot of my wiring be the issue? (not my handiwork. previous owner)
I have new wire, soldering gun and heat shrink and plan on redoing all of these butt crimper connections.
I found the visor light has not been turning off. Fixed that and tested again. Still 1.0 leaking.
Could the butt connectors that were used on a lot of my wiring be the issue? (not my handiwork. previous owner)
I have new wire, soldering gun and heat shrink and plan on redoing all of these butt crimper connections.
Can't answer the butt connector question,
You went through the fuses one at a time right?
Try unpluging the ignition switch.
You went through the fuses one at a time right?
Try unpluging the ignition switch.
Yes, all fuses were pulled.
I didn't think to pull the ignition switch.
I'll try that tomorrow.
I plan on running a better ground from the engine to firewall using 4ga cable instead of that flat factory strap.
I'll probably run it to the ground next to the battery and see if that makes (hope) a difference.
I didn't think to pull the ignition switch.
I'll try that tomorrow.
I plan on running a better ground from the engine to firewall using 4ga cable instead of that flat factory strap.
I'll probably run it to the ground next to the battery and see if that makes (hope) a difference.
There should be a ground from the battery to the inner fender between the batttery and the solenoid with another wire down to the harness below. You need the ground wire from the back of the engine to the firewall on the drivers side.
When I asked about the fuses, I figured you pulled them one at a time?
Just a thought, does your dome light work?
Correct. Those grounds are all there. I ran new factory battery cables as well.
I figured it wouldn't hurt to run a 4ga cable from the back of the engine to the same ground spot or the frame, eliminating that factory strap, to see if that makes a difference.
Correct on the fuses. Pulled them 1 at a time.
Dome light works and is triggered by the diir switch and the knob adjustment.
I don't have dash lights when the headlights are on. Only the driver side blinker shows on the dash. Headlights and tail lights work. Blinkers outside work. Side markers do not work.
The door chime is very faint.
With the headlights on, the battery gauge drops real low and the lights dim.
The blinkers work real slow.
The battery isn't holding a charge and will be tested tomorrow.
The alternator looks original and could be the issue behind charging problems.
Dash lights, who knows?
Plus, the butt crimps could not be done correctly, so I will change all of those to soldered lines and replace the alternator with a 130-150.
Good deal.
Replace that ground at the drivers side firewall with a 4ga and keep it in the same place, it's there for a reason.
Replace your headlight switch and your dimmer switch that is a multifunction switch, and while you are at it check that ignition switch under the dash on the steering column, the connection gets burnt when there are bad connections.
Replace that ground at the drivers side firewall with a 4ga and keep it in the same place, it's there for a reason.
Replace your headlight switch and your dimmer switch that is a multifunction switch, and while you are at it check that ignition switch under the dash on the steering column, the connection gets burnt when there are bad connections.
I found 12 butt connectors on the 6 alternator wires. I removed them and soldered in new wires.
I installed a new headlight switch and MFS. My dash lights still don't work.
I now believe it's the dimmer switch and ordered that today.
My oil pressure gauge barely works.
I'm not sure if it's the butt connected wiring or a bad sender and extender. So I ordered all new plus an auto meter mechanical gauge.
As I'm pulling apart the drivers side paneling, I find a butted pink wire that is cut from the plug and has a separate wire running to the fuse box.
Anyone know what this goes to? And why would someone cut it and run separate power?
Now that I have the soldering done and have all exterior lights working, my new mechanical oil pressure gauge in a dual pod on the pillar, wired up but not patched into the oil extender, I started thinking about my list of to do's.
On the suspension end, should I just go with replacing all the bushings or should I replace the full arms?
I ordered 4 new wheel bearings which will help with the play in the wheels. I also ordered Moog tie rods and ball joints.
I'm attempting to do everything on a limited budget and when time allows.
Any suggestions on the directions I should or can go?
I've been doing a lot of reading on this and other forums regarding engine mods.
I know my engine has around 92k and needs to be updated / refreshed.
What would be the wisest direction to go in regarding this process?
Intake manifold, cam, lifters, springs, pistons, heads etc?
On the suspension end, should I just go with replacing all the bushings or should I replace the full arms?
I ordered 4 new wheel bearings which will help with the play in the wheels. I also ordered Moog tie rods and ball joints.
I'm attempting to do everything on a limited budget and when time allows.
Any suggestions on the directions I should or can go?
I've been doing a lot of reading on this and other forums regarding engine mods.
I know my engine has around 92k and needs to be updated / refreshed.
What would be the wisest direction to go in regarding this process?
Intake manifold, cam, lifters, springs, pistons, heads etc?
I'm just going to replace the bushings and ball joints in my lowers, as far as h/c/i, thats subjective. It is a worthwhile up grade and my opinion would be to make sure the stuff works together, look for good low rpm torque for a street car, remember that everythong works together, rear gears, tire size, trans type, vehicle weight and shoe size need to be considered.
Most here have more experience with head suggestions than me.
Most here have more experience with head suggestions than me.
Suspension: I'm with karthief that I would replace the BJ's and bushings myself, but if you don't have access to a press and some air tools, it may be worth just buying the whole new arms with new bushing and ball joints already installed. They can be a huge PITA even with the right tools sometimes depending on how rusty/damaged what you have on there is.
Engine: depends on what your budget is. If the motor is in decent shape, you could easily just put on parts as you can afford them using a good matched set of parts. But with that said, I have 89k on mine that already has HCI and already thinking that I should soon consider a new short block or a mild rebuilt to the stock short block in it may be a good move.
Engine: depends on what your budget is. If the motor is in decent shape, you could easily just put on parts as you can afford them using a good matched set of parts. But with that said, I have 89k on mine that already has HCI and already thinking that I should soon consider a new short block or a mild rebuilt to the stock short block in it may be a good move.
Update..
Since soldering / cleaning up the alternator wiring, the car has been continuously holding a solid charge.
I have the mechanical oil gauge wired in and hooked up to the new sending unit via the clear plastic tubing. It reads start up pressure at 50 and warm idling pressure at 26.
I ended up ordering the complete ford front control arms and moog inner / outer tie rods from LMR.
To do this work myself, I went and purchased a 25gal air compressor, hoses, air ratchet and air impact wrench.
I decided to attempt this work yesterday.
I had no idea I'd be in for a major problem removing the brakes and the control arm hardware. I gave up after 6 hours of only one bolt per side actually loosening.
I decided to at least change the inner and outer tie rods. This went well and only took about 2 hours.
Regarding the hardware that won't break free...should I torch it? Have an actual mechanic do the work? Cut it off?
I know I need to upgrade the brakes and struts / springs. Should I wait until I purchase all those items and just go in and cut all of it out?
I would love to hear your opinions, thoughts, suggestions.
Since soldering / cleaning up the alternator wiring, the car has been continuously holding a solid charge.
I have the mechanical oil gauge wired in and hooked up to the new sending unit via the clear plastic tubing. It reads start up pressure at 50 and warm idling pressure at 26.
I ended up ordering the complete ford front control arms and moog inner / outer tie rods from LMR.
To do this work myself, I went and purchased a 25gal air compressor, hoses, air ratchet and air impact wrench.
I decided to attempt this work yesterday.
I had no idea I'd be in for a major problem removing the brakes and the control arm hardware. I gave up after 6 hours of only one bolt per side actually loosening.
I decided to at least change the inner and outer tie rods. This went well and only took about 2 hours.
Regarding the hardware that won't break free...should I torch it? Have an actual mechanic do the work? Cut it off?
I know I need to upgrade the brakes and struts / springs. Should I wait until I purchase all those items and just go in and cut all of it out?
I would love to hear your opinions, thoughts, suggestions.
Let me say that you will replace that cheep plastic oil pressure line either by choice or chance.
Choice: do it now and avoid a disaster. if your gauge is inside the car it WILL break an spew 200+ degree oil all over exposed skin not to mention ruining your day and possibly a expensive pair of shoes. If it is outside the cabin other equally catastrophic things will happen at the most inconvenient time.
Chance: see choice
As for those bolts. which bolts are giving you trouble?
lower control arm / ball joint / strut mount
Choice: do it now and avoid a disaster. if your gauge is inside the car it WILL break an spew 200+ degree oil all over exposed skin not to mention ruining your day and possibly a expensive pair of shoes. If it is outside the cabin other equally catastrophic things will happen at the most inconvenient time.
Chance: see choice
As for those bolts. which bolts are giving you trouble?
lower control arm / ball joint / strut mount
I don't drive the car as it's not inspected yet due to needing front brake work / replacement, so replacing the plastic line is going to be done. It was a temporary install to make sure my oil pressure was good. The factory gauge was reading at 10-20psi.
The bolts for the front lower control arm and the brake spindle mount on the strut. I can get the front side bolt off on both the drivers and passenger side. But that won't do me any good because the spindle bolts on the strut wont budge to be able to remove the brake assembly.
I'm going to try PB spray to see if that helps them free at all.
Both brake assemblies, spindles and control arms are very rusty.
The bolts for the front lower control arm and the brake spindle mount on the strut. I can get the front side bolt off on both the drivers and passenger side. But that won't do me any good because the spindle bolts on the strut wont budge to be able to remove the brake assembly.
I'm going to try PB spray to see if that helps them free at all.
Both brake assemblies, spindles and control arms are very rusty.
It's been a while since I posted as free time is on a minimal level.
My parts list has been piling up in the garage in the meantime.
I haven't had enough time to tackle the front control arm replacement yet, but I was able to soak the hell out of all the rusted bolts with the PB spray when I decided to install my sway bar prothane bushing kit and the prothane sway bar end links.
I replaced the mechanical oil pressure plastic tubing with copper tubing. I have the gauge mounted in a pillar pod so the braided oil lines will not fit. Bummer.
Not sure where else I may want to mount it to accommodate the braided line.
Since my full emissions under the hood were deleted before I bought the car, my egr was electrically plugged in but not connected via the tube. The car ran a little rough. I decided to purchase the LMR egr delete kit and see how that works, until I can find the full emissions kit to transplant. Maybe it's me, but the car seems to run a bit better.
I do have a new stock fuel regulator to install, but cannot find the pressure release valve on the fuel rails.
I also have new headlights to install since the factory ones have the black plastic outer ring all broken off.
The speedo needs to be hooked up still on the tranny and the gauge cluster will be replaced with a 140mph one, so the rpm gauge will be correct. I will get underneath it eventually to get it connected.
I had the carpet and seats steam cleaned just to see how they would turn out. The seats turned out pretty good, except for the cigarette burns (from previous owner) and the driver side tear on the outside back support.
the carpet....That will be replaced.
I have driven the car one mile, seeing how it drives with the new front end repairs and the egr delete kit. The steering seems tighter with more response and it runs pretty good.
It's pretty loud with the BBK shorty headers and the SLP GT exhaust. A bit obnoxious at WOT. I will be replacing this with a LX flowmaster cat back set up this fall.
I am a bit concerned with the way the transmission was installed / set up by the previous owner. It is an AOD that only has P, R and D in use. All drive gears work in the D function. I noticed that sometimes P doesn't always lock in place and I have to engage reverse then park to lock it.
Is this an adjustment that needs to be done? Or something more serious?
Thanks in advance.
Pics coming of current work done.
My parts list has been piling up in the garage in the meantime.
I haven't had enough time to tackle the front control arm replacement yet, but I was able to soak the hell out of all the rusted bolts with the PB spray when I decided to install my sway bar prothane bushing kit and the prothane sway bar end links.
I replaced the mechanical oil pressure plastic tubing with copper tubing. I have the gauge mounted in a pillar pod so the braided oil lines will not fit. Bummer.
Not sure where else I may want to mount it to accommodate the braided line.
Since my full emissions under the hood were deleted before I bought the car, my egr was electrically plugged in but not connected via the tube. The car ran a little rough. I decided to purchase the LMR egr delete kit and see how that works, until I can find the full emissions kit to transplant. Maybe it's me, but the car seems to run a bit better.
I do have a new stock fuel regulator to install, but cannot find the pressure release valve on the fuel rails.
I also have new headlights to install since the factory ones have the black plastic outer ring all broken off.
The speedo needs to be hooked up still on the tranny and the gauge cluster will be replaced with a 140mph one, so the rpm gauge will be correct. I will get underneath it eventually to get it connected.
I had the carpet and seats steam cleaned just to see how they would turn out. The seats turned out pretty good, except for the cigarette burns (from previous owner) and the driver side tear on the outside back support.
the carpet....That will be replaced.
I have driven the car one mile, seeing how it drives with the new front end repairs and the egr delete kit. The steering seems tighter with more response and it runs pretty good.
It's pretty loud with the BBK shorty headers and the SLP GT exhaust. A bit obnoxious at WOT. I will be replacing this with a LX flowmaster cat back set up this fall.
I am a bit concerned with the way the transmission was installed / set up by the previous owner. It is an AOD that only has P, R and D in use. All drive gears work in the D function. I noticed that sometimes P doesn't always lock in place and I have to engage reverse then park to lock it.
Is this an adjustment that needs to be done? Or something more serious?
Thanks in advance.
Pics coming of current work done.
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